The only rule about burgundy wines is that the exceptions are unending; clearly one shouldn’t open high-class 05 Grand Crus now – or should you…?
I well remember the domaine at one time serving this after their Musigny VV – and it was justified, the wine having an unbelievable verve and energy. Whatever its age, this wine obeyed the primary rule of wine – that the bottle should be enjoyed.
2005 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Bonnes-Mares
Popped and poured. Medium-plus colour. The nose has a hint of Bordeaux about it with a slightly mineral, cigar-box aroma; but slowly it releases a blend of violet flowers and flashes of gorgeously sexy red and blackberry fruit. In the mouth this has a very understated layer of velvety tannin; otherwise it is immaculately smooth and polished, slightly linear and shows a wonderful mid-palate intensity. The flavour in the finish is dark and concentrated, reminding me again of that half mineral – half cigar-box impression. the flavour easily hangs on for over a minute. Day two the last half a glass is very tight – the natural order is restored.
Rebuy – Yes