My first Clos du Chapitre, bought from the shop of the co-op Cave des Hautes Côtes just south of the Beaune periphique for €26.99. Seigneurs de Bligny is a brand/label of the ‘Caves’. This wine, in theory, is a monopole but there’s no such designation on the label – I asked someone at the ‘Caves’ and they said ‘we used to have monopole on the label, but now we’re not allowed!’ I suppose I’ll have to ask around to find out why. The coop is also one of the biggest owners of the next-door 1er cru of Craipillots which they sell for the same price – I thought I’d first try some of the ‘Chapitre’ first before returning…
2006 Seigneurs de Bligny, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos du Chapitre
Medium cherry-red colour. The nose starts very unimpressively – burnt-rubber oak is the dominant aroma. 20 minutes in the glass and things are beginning to improve; a little smokiness a little nutmeg spice and high-toned fruit that becomes redder and redder and overlays the toasty oak. The first taste was as disappointing as the nose – muddy, oaky, dirty dishwater flavours. In tandem with the mist lifting from the nose, 20-30 minutes wait delivers a wine of transparency, elegant acidity, definite length, if far from stunning concentration or intensity – the tannin is on a low level with velvet-style texture and no astringency. Time in the glass adds lots of interest and dilutes the dirty dishwater flavour that comes from the oak – eventually I couldn’t taste it at all. For my taste this is far from a great 1er cru, and really doesn’t seem to offer much Gevrey character – I don’t know if it shows Clos du Chapitre character! – but it’s balanced and eventually very tasty with a nice sweetness to the fruit. Given the price, it shows reasonable value, but do decant!
Rebuy – Maybe