[QPR (or the quality versus price paid ratio) is something I consider is often overlooked by the chain of hands that deliver bottles into the market, clearly it’s an important factor for the people at the end of that chain of-course. This diary entry started as a note on a single bottle with a great reputation, but a spiralling (upwards) price-point. It was good, but maybe not THAT good – I was forced to pull out a benchmark to compare…]
I often wonder who buys this Drouhin wine, particularly 2005 vintage onwards, it really is priced very high (for a Beaune 1er), like a Corton-Charlemange and more than most Puligny 1ers. I should occasionally step outside my fiscal comfort-zone to investigate, so here’s the ridiculously priced (90 swiss francs) 2005 version…
2005 Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches Blanc
Medium, medium-pale yellow colour. The nose is quite forward and displays both width and aromatic depth. Faint butter edges yellow fruit, and there’s a hint of torrefaction at the borders that adds a butterscotch note to the ripe lemon fruit. Very good texture, balance, and with an intensity that keeps growing in the mouth. There’s none of that warm fat that is typical of a Beaune blanc, and there’s a good burst of interest in the mid-palate. The flavours of the finish have a more mineral aspect and is very, very good. Overall, it’s a great package – every sip was savoured.
Rebuy – Yes but the qpr seems poor. Maybe I should pull out an 05 M&M Puligny Caillerets as a benchmark – it was only two-thirds of the price – game on…
2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Medium, medium-pale golden. After the Beaune, the nose is certainly of finer fruit and of similar depth, though less wide. Hints of lanolin and a faint, creamy brioche too. Softer, silkier, just a little narrower on entry, but on super acidity it expands across the palate much more impressively. It’s also very long with a more savoury element than the last bottles. Interestingly, all the constituent parts favour the Puligny tonight, but the ‘team’ performance is not quite as together as the Beaune’s. The Beaune has nothing like the density of the Puligny, and surprisingly seems the more mineral. Day two this is very ‘together’ and the clear leader.
Rebuy – Yes
Overall I’d be very happy to have either/both in the cellar, yet there is only one winner from a qpr perspective, I did , just slightly, prefer the Drouhin on the night – maybe day 2 will be a different story…
[EDIT: Yes my allegiance changes to the Puligny on day two!]