This, and the previous wine illustrate the context of being a négoce – don’t expect the style of one bottle to be reflected in the next bottle. F.Esmonin is a domaine for sure, but they also buy in grand crus, e.g. Clos de Vougeot, the Bèze from last week (just lower down the page) and this Chambertin. This is certainly a very good wine, and not badly priced for what is in the glass, yet this is merely ‘good’ in the context of the appellation – or maybe my expectation – and behind the Bèze in terms of absolute quality – and, I think, potential.
2001 Frédéric Esminin, Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus colour – certainly paler than the Bèze. The nose starts with coffee/caramel oak and sweetly browning sugar – slowly it develops a very pretty red berry note. In the mouth there’s good intensity that is driven by great acidity – the acidity also helps push a very good length. Quite linear and not overtly powerful. The nose gets better and better – it becomes a gorgeous and complex melange of candied and jellied red fruits. It doesn’t appear to be a ‘great’ Chambertin as today I miss a punch and complexity in the mid-palate, but it’s a very lovely wine and certainly has the balance to age very well.
Rebuy – Yes