A label that states Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots Appellation Contrôlée – like the Leroy here, you are supposed to know that it’s a premier cru, there is no mention on the label.
Anyway were are in a black hole of labels here; André Cathiard, Sylvain Cathiard, Cathiard-Molinier. To the best of my digging so far, André is the father of Sylvain and grandfather of Sebastian who now works with his dad. Concurrent with the labels of André Cathiard (and even Sylvain some years) you could find the labels of Cathiard-Molinier – which were otherwise identical and for the same appellations. I still see the C-M wines in lists from vintages post 2000. I can only assume that for various tax reasons (and maybe for sharing the proceeds with the extended family) these continue as separate legal entities – If you know better then please let me (us all) know.
1989 André Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
This wine retains a very healthy and quite deep (medium-plus) ruby-red colour at the core. The nose has some high woody notes – but relatively elegant wood – a darker more mineral core and fruit with a little raisined aspect. Impressive intensity is the opening gambit, again with clean, though slightly raisiny fruit – plenty of sweetness too. The acidity has a slightly harsh leading edge, but this is quickly broached to leave a complex, tasty melange of flavours that include a mineral – almost coal – type flavour. Long finishing too. Still grainy tannins that could do with resolving. Full marks for personality and complexity, some demerit for a hint of rusticity – but it’s actually still a young wine. I’m won over by its character and complexity – I drank rather more of it than I normally do in one evening – it’s a really engaging bottle.
Rebuy – Yes
Here are a couple of other label examples:
There are 6 responses to “(andré) cathiard’s 1989 vosne 1er les suchots”
Was this the last harvest before replanting?
I’m frequently delighted by bottles from sources which are supposed to have not been very good before such and such a date. So often such a perception seems to have been partial or just wrong.
I tend to agree with you that except in the case of the arrival of a consultant where vintages often go from chalk to cheese, most change is gradual. Sylvain worked for his father and his father still worked with Sylvain after the domaine was ‘officially’ handed over. I see Sylvain with a little more oak, finer tannins – and who knows maybe the yields are a little lower too, but certainly not needing to do major surgery.
Re vine age, sorry Tom – I’m a Cathiard ‘numpty’ – I shook Sylvain and Sebastian’s hand earlier this year, but basically know little (first-hand) of the domaine; Loeb have the following on their website which would imply this could conceivably have been the first young-vines bottling, but that may be the ‘average’ age, hence, you don’t know which vines were bottled. I think it’s more of a modern thing to rip out all the vines in one go, unless there was disease…
Hey Bill, lets get into font sizes again where does this one fit as its smaller than the Village name (snigger)?
Having said that there is not any village Suchots so your original comment on having to know its a 1er is spot on.
cheers
Phil
I have the impression that many a producer takes the INAO rules
with a pinch of saltas merely a rough guide…For anyone unsure of what Phillip is talking about re fonts:
New labeling regulations requiring “premier cru” or “grand cru” to be on the label were passed around December 1988.
Prior to this date the only way to distinguish a village wine from premier cru wine (assuming the producer chose not to mention “premier cru” on the label) was by font size: The names of 1er cru vineyards were allowed to be the same size as the commune (for example Vosne-Romanée), while font of names of village vineyards were only entitled to be half the height as the font of the commune.
hi Bill
in april 1976 I was the first time by Cathiard. At that time
the mother of Andre made the bill and take the money in the kitchen. You could only taste his wines out of the barrel. After I made my order(around 100 bottles) she opened a bottle of Clos Vougeot. At that time the St.Vivant was around 15 ffr. The best thing was when the son of Andre was shouting outside around ‘c’est fou le Suisse’. Perhaps I was one of the first which ordered such an amount of wine. The label was Cathiard-Molinier, because Andre had also a sister. I have only one St.Vivant(76 this is waiting for you) and one Clos Vougeot(78) left in my cellar. After he sold all his bottle of 1985 to Restaurant Taillevent in Paris I never went there.
I got some bottles(88, 93) from friends where the label has changed to Andre Cathiard.
Brilliant background – thanks Pablo – it’s much appreciated.
Maybe the summer will be a good time to get together, provided it’s not too warm!
Nice weekend, Bill