Profile: Pascal Lachaux / Robert Arnoux

I’ve just realised that I’ve become boring and predictable.

Whilst today unpacking a few wines to drink over the next week or two, I quietly patted myself on the back for having a couple of Bèze (98 Jadot, 01 F.Esmonin), a Chambertin (01 F.Esmonin), Fourrier’s top two from 02 and an 05 Goulots to spice things up – then maybe a wave of F.Esmonin ’99 grand crus could follow. This evening, as I collected the following Lavaux from the queue of bottles waiting their turn, I realised that apart from a ’97 Vosne, I was somehow stuck in Gevrey terroir – horreur! Pride was replaced with the the realisation of how boring I’ve become.

I actually open wines from the Côte de Beaune too, red and white – I even (shock) drink regionals – the thing is, once I’ve posted a note here, that’s typically it – I may drink multiple bottles of Bichot’s Pavillon, Santenots (for instance), but unless there is some change in the wine or a problem – you would never know. It seems that I buy and drink many more wines from the Côte de Beaune than I actually write about – I’ll have to think about that.

Nothing will change in the next 2-3 weeks, but I’ve shown myself the yellow card – I was so pleased about the line-up too – I suppose none of you want to hear about them… (haha)

2003 Pascal Lachaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Medium-plus colour, still with a cherry-red hint. The nose has a slightly savoury, spicy width and deep, dark-skinned cherry fruit, seems reasonably fresh for the vintage. In the mouth, this is quite full and shows a very good dark-fruit dimension in the mid-palate, though the acidity is only apparent by the slowly mouth-watering, cream-edged finish. Very smooth tannin underlines the quality of the wine-making, the main nod to the vintage being an edge of warmth to the finish. Today it just begs a little spark of energy to make it more characterful – and indeed to inveigle me into pouring another glass – that may simply the how many 03’s now show themselves, I’m afraid that I don’t open enough to know. Anyway, given that it’s a beautifully crafted wine of significant dimension, I can’t ‘not recommend’ it just because I’m not a great fan of the vintage! I re-visited the wine on day two – the nose is finer and shows more clarity, whilst the palate is just a little more supple and less ‘monolithic’ – certainly more interesting, I drank 2 glasses!
Rebuy – Yes

The new dog will be here in a week – a couple of better pictures than my first attempt, but don’t worry, this isn’t going to be a long-running wineanorakesque series with videos. Though I must talk to my wife about the ‘Mr T’ style regalia …