Here is an archetypal 1996, one that many would fail to understand and is almost a self-chastisement even for enthusiasts with it’s piercing acidity, yet – for me at least – there is a lovely fruit and complexity enough to balance.
1996 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot
Like all these Clos de Vougeots there’s deep core of colour. The nose has width and high, faintly alcoholic tones but also beautiful red fruits and violets though you destroy the picture if you swirl. A mouthful of perfume, fine but forward acidity, little obvious tannin, yet a very long finish that is borne on the vintage acidity. If you give it sufficient time – more than 2 hours – the mid-palate really fills out with dimension such that the acidity is apparently more balanced. I winced, but I really enjoyed it. Day two the palate is fuller and less pain-inducing – even better!
Rebuy – Yes