I’ve opened one of these almost every year since release – it’s rare that I buy a 12-bottle case, but occasionally ‘research’ is important! Frankly, due to the oak treatment this has been a roller-coaster ride. Last year I didn’t think so highly of the wine, the year before, perhaps, being it’s peak – yet this year it’s on decent form again.
1998 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
The colour is quite deep, but showing plenty of age with a little mahogany cast. The nose is complex with high and low tones; ash, coconut, deeper faintly reductive notes and some sweetness of fruit at its core. Excellent acidity though with a late metallic impression. Decent length, resolved tannin and some reasonable sweet fruit. Interesting and more balanced than the the last time out, less marked by the oak, though the base is still obvious.
Rebuy – Maybe
It seems I’ve been rather tardy in keeping you abreast of Burgundy ‘chatter’ on the interweb, so here’s a list of recent reads: