I have a whole bunch of Malconsorts that I might be working my way through in the next weeks!
Direct from the domaine this was only €51 – I was amazed they would still have these (at least at this price) as that’s very cheap for a perfect provenance Vosne 1er, or at least if it’s half-good. Actually it is half-good, that was what left me scratching my head… Maybe the concentration of all those 2005’s gone to my head (palate)?
1991 Pierre Bourée, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
The cork is black were it meets the air, and stained red all the way through – perhaps 2cm of ullage – but the wine is fine. Medium-pale though it’s a relatively young colour. The nose is soft and faintly spicy with hints of strawberry and stems but it’s also rather clean and interesting, occasionally it’s beguiling. In the mouth it’s soft and supple with a little kick in the mid-palate and perfect acidity. The almost-gone tannin is but a transparent screen. Very long, but it’s on a very subtle level – and despite the evident complexity, that’s the problem – everything about this wine is on too subtle a level, it’s like it’s diluted. Yields? Beautiful if you have the patience and lack of distractions but, if I may say, too ephemeral! For all that, every last drop was drunk in about 2 hours, I just wish I’d savoured it a little more, rather than thought ‘if only…’