The young vines of the domaine’s grand cru Ruchottes-Chambertin have (for the recent vintages) been set-aside to produce this declassified ‘village’ wine. I thought the 2002 to be the the standard of a good premier cru but the 2003, whilst good, to be less successful. Here’s my first look at the 2004:
Domaine Georges Mugneret, Gevrey-Chambertin
This wine is lighter in colour than the domaine’s 2004 Vosne (that preceded it) – medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is a little more reticent, slowly building a musky density with a mineral/cedar background, eventually some very smooth red fruit. The palate is also very smooth – you slip in almost un-noticed – the acidity is just about perfect, only slowly making your mouth water for more. Work the wine around on the palate and you notice the cedar/mineral element again and also there’s a little-tannin ‘grab’, otherwise they remain very well hidden. There’s a nice expansion in the mid-palate and a very understated but perceptible length. Today there is little about this wine that says it’s better than the slightly cheaper Vosne, and certainly it doesn’t show the same potential the 2002 did at this stage. Well made, and though that cedar thing is going on, it’s maybe a rebuy, but for (at least) the next two years or-so, I would reach for the better and cheaper Vosne in preference.
Rebuy – Maybe
For now, I’ll retain an open mind as to whether this is better than the 2003, but the 2002 is still much the better wine.