domaine des varoilles, 2003 la romanée

Update 14.3.2007(21.12.2006)billn

gevrey romanee varoilles
There are a number of La Romanées, and all have a good reputation. This one hides it’s light under a bushel as it’s a monopole of a relatively little-known producer – but take it from me, the quality is right up there with that of many better-known producers. The vineyard itself is at the ‘end’ of the same hillside that starts with the Clos St.Jacques if you walk with your back to the village of Gevrey. The last thing after La Romanée and Les Veroilles (which La Romanée sits above, and is also a monopole of the same producer) is a small strip of ‘village’ vines called La Bossière, then it’s only trees!
2003 Domaine des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er La Romanéetry to find this wine...
At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.
Rebuy – Yes

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 2 responses to “domaine des varoilles, 2003 la romanée”

  1. David Henry23rd December 2006 at 2:55 pmPermalinkReply

    In 1988, I had the good fortune of finding eight bottles of a 1978 Bonnes Mares bottling by Domaine des Varoilles in, of all places, the odd-lot/old-vintages bin at a Milwaukee area supermarket. Needless to say, I grabbed all eight bottles of this famous grand cru for less than $30.00 each. At ten years old at the time, this wine was superb, and is very near the top of my most-memorable-wines list (perhaps only second to a 1947 Clos des Lambrys from a magnum at a Christie’s tasting in Chicago in 1987). I have never again seen a Domaine des Varoilles bottle in my hundreds of trips to numerous wine shops in Chicago, Minneapolis, and Milwaukee. In fact, before yours I don’t think I have read another review of a Domaine des Varoilles wine. Thanks for revitalizing an old and very pleasant memory.

  2. Phil4th January 2007 at 1:30 pmPermalinkReply


    These wines must be the rarest Gevrey 1er, I never see them either in tasting notes or Traders listings which is a pity since searching them out at their own modest shop they are extreamly good value, I managed to get a bottle each from the 96 vintage, perhaps they have upset the popular press at some time ?

    A point of note you mention the La Bossiere above Romanee/Veroilles
    a tiny 0.4 ha is in fact 1er the monopole of Harmond-Geofrey they always have a display outside the Domaine in the centre of Gevrey and very good it is to.

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