As discussed in my report back in July, the team at M&M have opened (only last weekend) their new ‘cellar-door’ facility – rather nice it is too – but if today was anything to go by, in January the refridgerator will be used to keep the wine warm!
Best news from this follow-up visit is that I no-longer have taster’s angst – I liked the wines a lot in my first report, but Burghound was lukewarm – to be fair, Dr Meadows had the wines in the post only 5 days after they were bottled – anyway that bastion of good taste the wine spectator (actually Bruce Sanderson) weighed in with scores in the range 91-92/100 – shame then (for me) that M&M have already sold out in Aloxe-Corton – they had no license to sell direct when I last visited.
A few new wines have been added while they forge their bottle contracts (already 90% complete) for next year – see below:
2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Chablis
Establishing yourself in this business is about over-delivering, and here is a prime example; this wine is really a 1er cru from Côte de Lechets, but is labelled and priced as ‘Chablis’. The colour is pale yellow. High-toned aromas of citrusy pear swoon from the cold glass. The palate is fresh, wide and clean, tailing into a medium length. As it should be, a very, very good ‘Chablis’.
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Pinot Noir
A high-toned, narrow, ripe red and faintly blue coloured nose. In the mouth this is fresh and very pinot with clean, pure flavours and a finish that’s reasonably long for the regional appellation. Perfect sipping, chilled on a warm sunny day.
Rebuy – Yes
2003 Mischief & Mayhem, Charmes-Chambertin
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. As seems to be the house style, here also are nicely high-toned aromatics, just a little minerality edging the fresh cherry – this temperature (let’s say a little under 18°) is ideal for most 2003’s, any higher and most 2003’s start to become a little flabby. In the mouth this wine is a little more obviously 2003 with a ripe density, though it’s admirably fresh and the tannins are in no-way unruly. No fireworks in the mid-palate, rather a linear expression going into the good finish
Rebuy – Yes
There are 3 responses to “update at mischief & mayhem”
I like the sound of this operation – the only potential problem is that with any negoce operation like this, they can get a favourable review and then buy in more wine from the same appellation, do some elevage and then sell it with the same label. This is where the issue of trust comes in.
Very true Jamie – and there are some operations that (it is alleged) went this route and suffered for it.
For what it is worth, my impression is that once ‘sold-out’ M&M source a new appellation, rather than ‘x’ more barrels of the sold-out label. To-date they have done no elevage themselves.
Perhaps one of the Michaels will comment with their view…
Many thanks for your comments. Bill is correct in his assertion that when one of our wines has sold out it is not ” re-made ” but is indeed at an end.
Of course we attempt to secure as much of any wine as we can if the quailty warrants this but for Premier Cru wines in general, and top Premier Cru in particular like Meursault Genevrieres, the volumes produced simply do not allow for additional secondary purchases.
In any case, our sole concern is quality and we would never re-release a secondary example of any wine if the quality did not justify this.
I hope that this addresses the points which you raise but please do get back to us with any further thoughts which you may have.
Micheael L. Ragg