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Big Red Diary
Originally a 1973 design for Pluto Press; publisher of radical political pamphlets...
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Rebuy – Yes (2008)

2001 charles thomas corton clos du roi

2001 charles thomas corton clos du roi

2001 Charles Thomas, Corton Clos du Roi
Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose of macerating cherries, slightly alcoholic but focused. Full in the mouth with concentrated fruit and equally concentrated, reasonably fine and ripe tannin. Very nice fruit that hints at an extra creamy dimension and lovely acidity. This wine has plenty of muscle and I [...]

pierre guillemot savigny-serpentières 1er cru

pierre guillemot savigny-serpentières 1er cru

2005 Pierre Guillemot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Sepentières
Medium, medium plus colour. The nose needs about 1 hour before it starts to become interesting; always clean but initially inconsequential, it gradually acquires gravitas with quality red fruit over a faint base of coffee. The palate starts quite roughly – carbon dioxide is to blame. [...]

two 2001 malconsorts – one was definitely mal

I decided to open this pair over the weekend; both négociants, but in this case the Thomas is a ‘domaine’ wine – these are the vines which are now exploited by de Montille. Unfortunately I didn’t have a bottle of the Clos Frantin wine handy as their 01 was early in the Bichot renaisance [...]

05 thierry mortet gevrey-chambertin

05 thierry mortet gevrey-chambertin

2005 Thierry Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium colour. None of the lovely fruit notes of the 2004, rather a darker, quite sumptuous effect. Dense, but it’s a cushioned concentration and there’s super depth of creamy fruit. completely buried structure today. Lovely, though it will be a long wait for complexity…
Rebuy – Yes

thomas-moillard 2005 volnay 1er clos des chênes

2005 Thomas-Moillard, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
A domaine wine whose back-label proclaims the grapes to be ‘biologique’ and that all operations were done according to the lunar calendar. Medium-plus colour. Brooding aromatics but there are glimpses of very fine fruit that slowly turns redder in the glass. Concentrated, lots of very [...]

billard-gonnet pommard 1er chaponnieres 2005

billard-gonnet pommard 1er chaponnieres 2005

2005 Billard-Gonnet, Pommard 1er Chaponnières
Medium, medium-plus colour. Directly following the Château de Chorey the nose and palate both seemed attenuated and narrow, only the finish was captivating – much longer than the Beaune. Within 5 minutes the nose showed occasional flashes of brilliance – beautiful red fruits and hints of coffee. [...]

bertagna 2005 vougeot 1er clos des perrières

bertagna 2005 vougeot 1er clos des perrières

2005 Bertagna, Vougeot 1er Clos des Perrières
Deep cherry-red colour. The nose opens with fine, high-toned, red and black berry notes over a deeper, brooding core of fruit – eventually there’s a lovely pure redcurrant note in the emptying glass. In the mouth the acidity starts just a shade bright on the tongue [...]

savour club 1991 chapelle-chambertin

savour club 1991 chapelle-chambertin

I picked up a few bottles of this at a recent auction – for a relative song if they taste halfway good! The Savour Club still exists in Belgium/Germany/France/Switzerland as a wine merchant, though today they don’t seem (as in this case) to be so actively using their own labels and acting as a [...]

1998 leroy volnay clos des chênes

1998 leroy volnay clos des chênes

The label assumes that you know that ‘Volnay Clos Des Chênes’ is a premier cru as there is no mention of ‘rank’. This is far from a cheap bottle – 70 Swiss francs – but the tariff is in-line with several producers’ current 1er cru offerings from the Côte de Beaune, it also has [...]

louis jadot 2005 beaune 1er clos des ursules

louis jadot 2005 beaune 1er clos des ursules

Hmm, it’s a couple of weeks since I had a nice bottle, this really made up for it!
2005 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Clos des Ursules
Medium-plus ruby-red colour with some purple still at the rim. The nose starts robustly, full with dark fruit – similar to the 2005 Pierre Morey Bourgogne – but offering [...]

nicholas rossignol volnay 1er santenots 2005

nicholas rossignol volnay 1er santenots 2005

It would be hard to guess that this came from the same vineyard as the recent Faiveley Santenots. The Faiveley was more butch, and perhaps longer – an ‘hommage’ to the style of Lafon – but the width and complexity of fruit here seems more ‘Volnay’ though the oak needs to fade a little more. [...]

lignier-michelot 2004 chambolle les gammaires

lignier-michelot 2004 chambolle les gammaires

2004 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Les Gammaires
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is understated but shows good depth and there’s no ‘2004 character’. In the mouth it’s serious, with good mid-palate dimension and a good persistence of ripe flavour. Very nice – I bought some more.
Rebuy – Yes

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