Bugger! After opening I noticed a few bubbles in the neck – I turned round to get my glass and when I returned the bottle was standing in a puddle of wine! How strange thought I – do they may sparkling reds? – then I realised that there had been a crack in the bottle, mainly covered by the label. Pulling the cork was enough to make the crack give-way. Unfortunately enough air had obviously got through over time as the wine was oxidised. Underneath it was concentrated and seemed to have good fruit – I’ll have to get another…

Medium cherry red, a paler salmon shade at the rim. The nose is not so pronounced but has the high tones of the other ‘varoilles’ though with a much deeper spicy aspect and some chocolate. Good concentration to the fruit though seems more roasted and mouth wrapping, but fine, tannins. Good acidity and god good length. Again a nice wine.

Medium ruby red shading to amber. Again the nose is a little muted, same high tones but a more roasted aspect to the fruit. Fat with almost good acidity and still a little tannin. The rôti note is more obvious still on the palate. The finish is deep and admirably long but my preference would be for the previous wines.

Medium ruby red, just a trace of amber at the rim. Not as high-toned as many and no spice, but the red cherry comes through just like the others from this vineyard. Concentrated with fresh acidity and good tannins – in fact lovely concentration. The finish doesn’t linger as long as the ’97 Varoilles but this is very much my preferred style.

Not quite so deep a colour as the 2003, more a medium-plus cherry red. High toned flowery nose with red cherry on a deep undertow of black-skinned fruits. Some fat and very smooth with good acidity. Shows well mannered tannins and mix of black and red fruits. Finishes with a little wood on the palate – but should be no problem at this age – and very good length. Will be a lovely wine.

Medium-plus cherry red. Lovely high-toned nose over sweet red cherry. The palate is less fat than the 2002 and has much fresher acidity that comes across as a little harsh – doesn’t show the concentration of the last wine. Medium tannins that are quite smooth. The finish is a good one, this time with no wood. Much less charming than the 2002 though.

The 2001 disappointed slightly after the 2002, but we’re back with a bang here. Medium cherry red, just fading a little at the rim. The now characteristic high-toned nose supported by cherry red fruit is in evidence. Lovely fruit with real depth – much friendlier than the last wine, but certainly not a ‘short-termer’. This is a really fine effort for a 2000, has everything it needs for 5-10 years of development.

Same colour as the 2000. It’s confirmed – the nose again showing high tones over a red cherry base, just hint of spicy development on this wine too. Nice mouthfeel, concentrated with good acidity. The tannin clings to your gums, but they’re finely grained. A very good finish – will be a good wine.

Deep ruby with a slightly cherry rim. Coffee and dark cherry fruit. Fresh palate due to good acidity light to medium grainy tannins but a nice penetrating finish. I would have preferred more fat for a 1er Cru but this wine has lovely complexity. It will be interesting to see how it develops.