As Gilberto said, we had a wonderful evening, and it was a great pleasure for me and my friends to host Gilberto and share some wines with him, especially since he brought such marvellous example of Suisse PN. Looking back, my only regret is that we didn’t get higher quality PNs from Germany, since Switzerland clearly won this contest, as I have to admit humbly with a shattered national pride ;-) Still, it was really interesting to see that price really matters, as proven in a blind tasting.
Since I was a bit carried away by the excitement and the good mood, and had to control the partridge in vermouthcream that was served to accompany the wines, my notes are as sketchy as Gilbertos. Still, here are my conclusions in brief form, including a rating.
1. Weingut Sprecher von Bernegg (Jan Luzi), von Pfaffen-Calander – This was maybe the most interesting wine for me, really exotic for a PN, but still somehow typical. Nevertheless, I was suspecting this could be the Brunello (at least a very elegant example), since it was so different. It had strong notes of green herbs in the nose and on the palate, thyme and rosemary, but very harmonic and well integrated. Medium body, very good balance, medium acidity, an elegant wine which reminded me of a gentle walk through a summer forest. (17,5/20)
2. Weingut Ziereisen Spätburgunder "Tschuppen" - The wine had an aggressive acidity, not well integrated, and too much wood. Light body which could not balance the acid. The nose was allright, but not exciting. This was my biggest disappointment. Especially since the 2005 “Tschuppen” was a marvellous wine on the level of a good Burgundy village. Maybe the 2005 was a one hit wonder, since the 2006 and 2009 were not nearly as good. I still have some of the top-cuvees of that vintage(Jaspis 2005) cellared, I’m looking forward to taste them to complete the picture. (15,5/20)
3. Domaine Dublere Beaune 1er Cru Les Blanches Fleurs - We really liked the wine – but none of us identified it as the Burgundy. Might be a result of the 2009 vintage, which I still regard as untypical and too broad. Stuill, it was a real pleasure to drink, a textbook Pinot, but nothing special and not more elegant then the Suisse PN or the Heger. (17/20)
4. Weingut Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder "B" - A disappointment as well. Especially since even the basic PN from Becker is supposed to be a wine of high quality. Here we had too much Tannins, too much acidity, a very alcoholic nose and an unbalanced qualiy. Still, the wine had some power, but that’s not what I'm looking for in PN (16,5)
5. Agostina Pieri, Brunello di Montalcino 2006 – A very good wine, but obviously the pirate.
6. Weingut Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs - Finally, Dr. Heger saved the German reputation with his Ihringer Winklerberg. My notes just say „great“ and I was suspecting that this could be the Brungundy. Power, Finesse, balance, cherry notes, even a hint of earth, this was really a pleasure. (18/20)
7. Gantenbein – It’s the old thing with Gantenbein. A real good wine, but no surprises and somehow to linear for my taste. Still, this is a serios, very well made wine, no doubt about it. (17,5/20)
8. Hallau Choelle, Markus Ruch - This was my favourite – or was it just my level of drunkenness, since it was the last wine? Of course no one of us was spitting (I just emptied the rest of the Ziereisen and the Becker in the sink) so at this point there was some euphoria in the air. But I retasted the wine the other day and was confirmed. A very concentrated PN with good body (probably a result of the old grapes), still very balanced and elegant, dark fruits, some herbs, a lot of complexity. More on the body side then structure and minerals, but a great example of PN which could be a perfect pirate for a Burgundy tasting. In fact, I guessed this could be the Beaune 1er. (18,5/20)
For refreshement and finish, we had some Riesling. The Johann Baptis Schaefer Laubenheimer Riesling 2011 was a textbook Riesling, with a great ping-pong of sweetness and acidity (Süß-Säure-Spiel, as we like to say in german) great balance and minerality. I remember lemons, orange and some notes of candy and caramel.
The Karl Schaefer Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling Kabinett 2008 is going thorugh a strange phase, were acidity is too dominant. Karl Schaefer is producing a classic style Riesling, but the other 2008 I had were much more balanced. This bottle needs to leep another year or so.
This was a great evening and hopefully we can drink and discuss more often face-to-face and outside of virtual reality. Nothing better then to share a good glass of PN with friends!