I’m developing a new interest for red wines from Beaune. I always had reservations, since the premier Crus are kind of confusing, as there are so many and still there seems to be no real hierarchy - maybe apart from L’Enfant Jesus by Bouchard,but this is overrated and overpriced, at least in my opinion. Moreover, Beaune seems to be dominated by negociant wines, and I have reservations towards them, too.
But regarding the price development in the last years, I have to look for alternatives to Gevrey, Chambolle and Vosne. Just by chance, I drank three Beaune wines in the last weeks – all marvellous. First was a 98 Cent Vignes – unfortunately I can’t recall the producer, since it was at a friends place. Even if it had some aging notes, the wine was very good. Then I had 2005 Marconnets and Clos de Mouche 2005 from Bouchard, a contradiction to all my reservations. Especially the Marconnets had a Chambolle-like elegance, since the Clos de Mouche had more power, but was a very structured wine, too. Everything you need from a Burgundy, for less then 30,- Euro.
I feel confirmed by Bill who writes in his book, that in terms of price and quality the premier Cru reds of Beaune are the greatest bargains in Burgundy today. He also states, that Beaune reds can live to very ripe old ages. I’m not so sure about that, since I never drank a real good Beaune older then 15 years. Also, my merchant says that they are reaching the climax around this time.
So, any expericences or advices to share here? What are recommendable producers? Even with my reservations towards negociant wines I’d recommend Bouchard today. Which are the best Terroirs? Any more comments about this subject?