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A labour intensive process to be sure, but slowly this page will ‘evolve’. So, starting with A . . .
Acetic Acid Bacteria.
A bacteria activated in the presence of oxygen which is often responsible for spoiling wine by oxidising the ethanol (alcohol), producing volatile acetic acid (ethanoic acid) and ethyl acetate (ethyl ethanoate). Improperly stored (empty) barrels are a common source of the bacteria, mouldy grapes can also be a ‘good’ source. Grapes that have been punctured by insects (such as wasps) may also be a source so are discarded during triage. Outside the wine world, it is exactly what is needed to produce wine vinegar.
Acids and Acidity.
When in balance you will only really note the presence of acid in a wine by the mouth-watering effect the wine has once you swallow. If the acidity is too high, you might find the wine becoming too tart or sour, whereas if it’s too low the wine can seem, for want of a better word, ‘flabby’ or cloying. Acid is also the perfect foil for sugar. A wine can be incredibly sweet, but given enough acidity to balance the sugar and everything is just fine. As a grape ripens, the level of acidity reduces. Acidity is described as the concentration of acid in the wine or must. When measured in terms of ‘total acidity’ the higher the number, the higher the acidity, when measured in terms of pH, the higher the number the lower the acidity! Prior to any malolactic fermentation, the acids are typically acetic, malic and tartaric acids. If a malolactic fermentation takes place, much of the malic acid is converted to lactic acid. If a wine is low in acidity, tartaric acid is the addition of choice to ‘try’ bring more balance to the wine.
Acid Adjustment.
If the must is low in acidity, this can be adjusted before fermentation. In the finished wine, added acid is usually more noticeable if done post-fermentation, hence, these adjustments are normally done first. In high temperature regions the acidity is often lower than required and tartaric acid is typically used to compensate. If acidity is too high – often associated with (overly) cool climates – then adjustment is normally done after the fermentation. The advantage of adjusting after fermentation is that you know exactly how much ‘low acidity wine’, calcium carbonate or or potassium carbonate to add. Adjusting before the fermentation is usually a ‘best guess’ of what will be required.
Aftertaste.
Often referred to as the ‘finish’, this is the sensation of ‘still tasting’ the wine (sometimes long) after swallowing. This can be measured in seconds, or even minutes. The longer the time, reputedly the higher the wine’s quality. If you think you need a scale try a French one which ascribes 1 ‘caudalie’ to each second of length – so 20 seconds is 20 caudalie – I’m not sure why ‘seconds’ wasn’t good enough(!) I have seen this in the translation from French of some tasting notes – but not very often.
Alcohol.
I suppose I should mention alcohol. Nature is a funny thing; it seems that ‘someone’ decidied that primary alcohols with and odd number of carbons should be very bad for you; methanol, propanol, pentanol etc., whereas, those with an even number of carbons; ethanol, butanol etc., should be less so. Of course, in high enough concentration all alcohols are toxic, but contrast methanol which destroys the optic nerve and sends you blind with ethanol that is the basis of a multi-billion dollar beverage industry – and the difference? – two carbons for ethanol and only one for methanol!
Alluvial wash
This is the eroded deposit of soil and minerals by the action of weather
Americanistes
In the fight against phylloxera these were the proposers of using vine grafts on aphid resistant American rootstocks
Anthocyanins.
RM Willstätter received the Nobel prize for chemistry in 1915 for his work on plant pigments. He discovered that fruit and flowers that have red, blue or purple colours contain pigment molecules based on cyanidin (right). When sugars attach to the points on the molecule (marked in red) the molecule is now called an anthocyanin. Higher sugar contents increase the solubility and stability of anthocyanins in water. Anthocyanins are divided into five classes depending on their structure: cyanins, delphinins, malvins, peonins and petunins – did you spot the name of your favourite flower? – this is where their colour comes from, the proportions of each anthocyanin will depend on the grape variety. Interestingly if the anthocyanin has mainly hydroxyl (-OH) substituents at the points marked in blue, the colour is shifted towards blue, whereas if the substituents are methoxylated (-OCH3) the colour is more red. Malvin is the most red of these compounds and is therefore responsible for most of the red colour in a young wine. The anthocyanins complex with sugars in the wine which helps to ‘fix’ the colour, it is only with aging that the anthocyanin complexes start to diss-associate and start to join up with tannins to form polymers – this causes both a gradual reduction in the intensity of the colour and also a reduction in the dissolved tannin.
Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC)
The official qualitative classification of vinyards into regional, communal (villages and premier crus) and grand cru appellations.
Autolysis of Bacteria and Yeast.
Autolysis is the destruction of a cell after its death by the action of its own enzymes breaking down its structure. Autolysis can involve both bacteria strains and yeasts. Yeasts are micro-organisms responsible for the onset of fermentation, typically of the family Saccharomyces.
Because of the low pH and the increase in alcohol content the yeasts die. The dead yeasts in the wine barrel are called the ‘lees’, these dead cells can facilitate the production of lactic acid bacteria (lactobacillus brevis) which in tern promotes growth of Oenococcus Oeni which is involved in the malolactic fermentation. It is believed that cell autolysis of Oenococcus Oeni has a primary role in the development of post-fermentative flavour changes. Looking at the photos to the right you can see the effect of autolysis breaking down lactic acid bacteria.
C. ZAMBONELLI et al.: Sensorial Characteristics of Fermented Foods, Food Technol. Biotechnol. 40 (4) 347–351 (2002)
Ban des vendanges
The date from which harvests were allowed to start, since 2006 of minor importance but in times past you might forfeit your crop for starting early – it was a form of quality control to ensure that the grapes were not harvested unripe.
Barrel.
The traditional wooden container used to age (and sometimes ferment) wine. The classic Burgundy barrel contains 228-litre – or 300 bottles – and is usually made from French oak
(In) Barrel Fermentation.
Usually associated with white wine grapes, barrel fermentation is basically the conversion of grape juice into wine by yeast in oak barrels i.e. the primary alcoholic fermentation, though the secondary malolactic fermentation will likely also follow-on in the barrel. Despite barrel fermentation being more expensive and less controllable than an equivalent fermentation in stainless-steel tanks, it is believed to give the wine richness and slightly creamy flavours plus vanilla and coconut. Other oak derived characteristics such as improved aging capabilities come by following this route. On the downside, this technique contributes to a loss of some fruit flavour, plus, cool rooms and lower volumes (in barrel compared to tanks) are the basic form of temperature control!
Bâtonnage
Stirring of the lees of white wine during maturation to increase the apparent richness – usually gives a wine a ‘fatter’ texture.
Bien Nationaux
Properties seized by the state during the French Revolution (usually from the Church or nobility) and then sold by auction.
Bordeaux Mixture
A treatment in the vines, used to combat fungal infection of grapes (mildew); a mix of copper sulfate and calcium hydroxide.
Botrytis
Botrytis mold or rot – always a bad thing in Burgundy
Brettanomyces
Brettanomyces or “Brett” is a yeast genus that can produce off-aromas or flavours in wine (“animal” or “farmyard” notes) but equally can provide added complexity at a low level.
Carbonic Maceration
Fermentation without oxygen; common in Beaujolais and beginning to have some relevance in the Côte d’Or too
Climat(s)
Specific vineyard place name(s)
Clos
A vineyard enclosed by a wall – in theory – mayn vineyards that bear this name today have no walls, though that could be due to the fact they have slowly dissolved with dis-repair over centuries. A wall can affect the ‘micro-climate’ of the vines versus other vines outside the wall; higher temperatures are common, usually due to the removal of the cooling breeze, hence, a ‘clos’ often ripens before other vines in the same area.
Combe
A valley; often narrow and steep.
Confusion Sexuelle
The use of pheromone capsules to attract and ‘confuse’ egg-laying moths.
Corked
A term for wine spoiled by its cork (see TCA).
Coulure
Coulure is a failure of grapes to develop after flowering and may be triggered by cold, cloudy, rainy weather (coulure climatique). Flowers stay closed so are not pollinated. Coulure can also cause irregular bunches of grapes which are less compact than normal – see millerandage.
Courtier
A third party who arbitrates and brokers transactions between the producer and the négociant for a standard commission.
Cuvaison
Is the period of time (during fermentation) when the wine macerates on the grape skins.
Cuvée
Is a blended quantity or selection of wine.
Demi-Muids
Are 600-litre barrels, usually made from French oak.
Décuvage
The back-breaking work of shovelling out the solid material (stems and crushed grapes called the ‘cap’) from the fermentation tank, after the fermentation is complete and the ‘free-run’ juice is removed. This solid material will be pressed to liberatate the ‘press-juice’ which may or may-not be included in the final wine. After pressing the solid material will be sent for distillation and possibly later composting.
Délestage
A method of gentle extraction during fermentation in which the wine is pumped out of the tank then splashed back in over the grape cap – sometimes referred to as rack and return.
Domaine
An important term on a label – which indicates that the wine was made by the owner of the vines.
Egrappé
The term for de-stemmed grapes.
Ellagitannins
These are the tannins derived from the oak barrels.
En-Primeur
A system of selling wines while they are still in barrel, roughly six to eight months after the harvest – with the bottling still up to a year away. For some domaines this is an important source of cashflow.
Esca
Sometimes called ‘Black Measles’ (in California), Esca is one of the oldest fungal diseases of the vine for which there is still no cure.
Eutypiose
A fungal disease that rots the wood of the vine
Fermage
A long-term lease to a parcel of vines – 20+ years
Fining and filtration
Fining (or ‘collage’ in French) is a process to enable the clarification and potentially improve the stability of a wine. In an ideal world the barrels are assembled into a tank and left a few weeks so that any suspended particles like dead yeast (lees, fine and gross) will sink to the bottom of the tank, only requiring the force of gravity, leaving the wine bright and clear. Sometimes, however, there are fine particles which subbornly remain suspended. A fining agent such as egg-white or a finely divided clay such as bentonite is used that helps these suspended particles clump together (so becoming heavier) and settle. Fining is also a benefit when partially soluble material such as particular molecular weights of tannins or proteins might be better removed – for the longer-term stability of the wine. Fining, like it’s rather more intensive cousin ‘filtration’, is an essential part of winemaking; despite the ‘villification’ certain critics targeted to these techniques. At one time a wine described as ‘no fining or filtration’ was an important statement of the (quality) intent of a producer, even if the wines were not particularly stable once they left the cellar, but the techniques and equipment of filtration today are much gentler than even twenty years ago, so today I consider that such a label reflects a little more ‘dogma’ than truth…
Flavanoids
A class of chemicals (phenolics) which bring colour and some anti-oxidant characteristics to wine.
Foudres
Are large 1,000-litre-plus, closed oak tanks.
(En) Foule
A disordered plantation of vines – not in rows – as the plantings were before phylloxera.
Gras
A tasting term meaning “fat” or rich
Helix Pomatia
Is the latin name for the edible ‘Burgundy Snail’ – sometimes referred to as the Roman snail. There is even a brotherhood that is dedicated to protecting the interests of this slimy accompaniment to garlic butter! Like all other hunting pursuits, there is a ‘close-season’ where you should not ‘collect’ them.
Jurassic
The geological period when the baserock of the Côte d’Or was deposited.
Lees
Is the solid material from grapes and yeast deposited in the tanks and barrels; gros lees is the heavier material that easily settles, fine lees is much finer material which can stay suspended in the wine making it slightly cloudy – this would be removed by fining.
Lieu(x)-dit(s)
Are specific vineyard place names.
Mâconnais
Burgundian wine-producing region south of the Côte d’Or
Mairie
French village-hall or town-hall.
Maison
An important term on a label – indicates that the wine was not made by the owner of the vines
Malolactic Fermentation.
After the alcoholic fermentation the wine has a mixture of volatile (mainly acetic) acids and non-volatile acids, mainly tartaric and malic acids. Malolactic fermentation is the action of bacteria and yeast strains on the malic acid, converting it to lactic acid. Because malic acid has two acid groups and lactic acid has only one, the malolactic fermentation results in a lowering of acidity (higher pH) – the acid group is lost as carbon dioxide. It is generally accepted that for ‘high-quality’ wines the ‘malo’ (as this fermentation is often called) is a good thing as it replaces the sometimes ‘rough’ malic acid with the smoother lactic, and produces a further layer of complexity. It is typically responsible for the buttery taste in chardonnay wines. The malolactic fermentation can be ‘induced’ by the addition of lactic bacteria (inocculation) or by warming the cellar.
Marls
Are limestone-rich soils usually with a quantity of clay.
Massal
A ‘massale selection’ is the propagation of new vines from the budwood of favoured vines.
Metayage
A medium-term renting of vines – typically renewed every 6-8 years. A metayeur is someone who rents the land they work.
Mildew
Powdery or downy mildew are fungus-like molds.
millerandange
Is an irregular ‘fruit-set’ that leads to uneven, often small berry size.
Monopole
A monopole is a vineyard with just one owner.
Must.
The must is simply the mixture of juice or wine plus the crushed grapes and grape skins, pips and stems, prior to removal of the ‘solid’ material.
Oïdium
Also known as powdery mildew, a fungal disease that attacks the green tissues of the vine after which photosynthesis is not possible.
pH
A logarithmic measure of acidity-alkalinity. High pH means low acidity and vice versa
Phenolics and Pinot Noir.
Pinot Noir has a very low phenolic content relative to other red grapes. These phenolics develop in the grapes, pips, skins and stems by the effect of UV light, hence, phenolic maturity is as much related to the availability of sunlight as temperature during the growing season. The phenolic (substituted hydrocarbon rings) compounds are principally anthocyanins and tannins. Additional phenolic compounds in wine come from the oak used during maturation.
Phylloxera
An insect pest; the aphid life-stage of which contributes to the destruction of vine roots.
Pinot Fin
And also très fin are older, theoretically finer clones of pinot noir.
Potassium
An element whose derived compounds are used as an important component in fertilizers – implicated in reducing the acidity of Côte d’Or wines after excessive use of fertilisers in the late 1960s and 1970s.
Pigeage
Is punching down the grape cap during fermentation, either manually or mechanically, to submerge the grape skins. In days gone by it was done with the feet of lagely naked men who would end up, up-to-their-necks in the fermenting mixture. Very dangerous while the wine is giving of CO2; sombody dies almost every year due to losing conciousness and then drowning in their own cuvée.
Provignage
Is pre-phylloxera term for propagating plants via layering.
Pyrazines
Pyrazines, or more typically in winemaking, methoxy-pyrazines (MPs) deliver a herbaceous character to wines – such as the the nettles of sauvignon blanc or the ‘bell pepper’ of cabernet sauvignon – the former is often encouraged, the latter not. Then there are MPs that come from insects…
Racking
Is decanting the wine either to aerate it, or to remove lees
Régisseur
The estate manager in either a management capacity, or an ownership capacity.
Remontage
Pumping over of must/wine to aerate and drench/break up the grape cap.
Saignée
‘Bleeding’ or siphoning of a proportion of the grape juice in a tank prior to fermentation in order to concentrate the must.
Sous-Bois
A tasting term that implies undergrowth i.e. the notion of a leafy forest floor.
Soutirage
See racking
Stage
A period of work at another domaine, could be anywhere in the world.
Sucrosité
A term for sweetness, but not from suger, rather the ripeness of the fruit; a very ripe wine will taste sweet, even though it is technically ‘dry’ i.e. there is no sugar left to ferment.
Sulphuristes
In the fight against phylloxera these were the proposers of using chemicals to control the aphid life-stage
Tâcherons
Piece-workers paid for (manual) work done.
Tannins.
Literally a range of compounds with the ability to tan leather (precipitate proteins!) they are a complex group of phenolic (aromatic) compounds which can be split into two groups; the ‘simple’ structures of non-flavanoids which can have their origin in either the grape material, yeast or oak, and the more ‘complex’ flavanoids which come only from grapes/stems. The anthocyanins from above are classed as flavanoids. In addition to helping to fix the colour with the anthocyanins, the tannins provide the characteristic dry, astringent mouthfeel in red wines and also act as antioxidants.
Terres Blancs & Rouges
Lighter coloured soil usually with lower clay content and higher limestone content. Terres rouges darker, higher clay-content soil, typically with a higher iron content. The former favours white wines and the latter the reds.
TCA
Is the acronym for 2,4,6-trichloroanisole; the musty smelling compound usually associated with cork taint.
Triage
Triage or ‘to trie’ is the sorting or selective picking of grapes.
Typicité
Typicity i.e. a wine showing the typical traits of its origin or style.
Vendanges Entier
The name given to using whole bunches of grapes i.e. without destemming (egrappage)
