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69 notes

 

 

2006 Château de Marsannay, Gevrey-ChambertinApr. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose begins with deep but narrow aromas with a little mint-leaf and occasional but very pretty flowers and cream. There seems not too much tightening of flavour yet – there’s still a little rasp of tannin and a reasonable width of flavour too. Good acidity, which helps further expand the flavours in the mid-palate, which also shows a nice floral aspect. A more than adequate wine for the label!
1972 Bourée Pierre Fils, Gevrey-ChambertinJan. 2012
This one has about 7cm of ullage and a cork that crumbles – c’est la vie… Here is also some balsamic aroma but it’s just a trace, there’s a little beef broth too – neither are my favourite. Slowly both of those components fade to reveal a wine of clarity, silky intensity and a lovely extra creamy dimension of flavour in the mid-palate and into the bright finish. There’s a result! The fruit aromas are of alcohol macerated cherries and oranges. I started to make a coffee in the first few minutes this was opened – I never did finish making it! ;-)
2001 Camus, Gevrey-ChambertinNov. 2011
An assemblage of multiple parcels dotted around the village. The colour looks quite mature. The nose shows some herbs and just a hint of volatility. In the mouth this is sweet and tasty – indeed very good. The acidity is penetrating without being sharp and long too. Blind I would have guessed a ‘ready to drink’ late-1980’s wine.
2009 Maume, Gevrey-ChambertinMar. 2011
An assemblage from 10 parcels of vines which normally makes 3 cuvées; a Gevrey Aux Etelois, a Gevrey En Pallud (seventy-five year-old vines) and this wine. A spiced-bread nose. The serious flavour grows and grows. Will be very good.
1985 Pontbriand Lionel de, Gevrey-ChambertinJan. 2011
Medium-plus ruby-red that fades and transforms to mahogany at the rim. Deep, slightly musky and meaty aromas over a sweeter, almost sugared core of fruit – if anything it puts on ever-more weight with time. This has a lovely silky fatness to the texture and hints at sweetness before snatching it away again – fully ripe at harvest? – yet there is a mineral, almost metallic flavour at the core that seems almost cleansing, the acidity is quite understated. Half an hour in glass and the metallic impression is gone and there’s more than a hint of some extra mid-palate flavour. The finish may be a little understated but its reminiscent of sweet and dark, bitter-chocolate and it’s very long.
1985 Drouhin Joseph, Gevrey-ChambertinJan. 2011
Medium-plus colour, tending more to mahogany than red. The nose has limited width, but quite some brown-sugared and warm-fruited depth. There is less silk to the texture but a more open and sweet flavour, like-able as it is, I still have the occasional faint impression of something oxidative (the cork slid out very easily) and a last vestige of tannic astringency. Slowly fading on a similar bitter-chocolate note to the previous wine, though perhaps not with the length of the Pontbriand.
2008 Remoissenet Père et Fils, Gevrey-ChambertinOct. 2010
The nose has plenty of toasted bread. More supple in the mouth than the Grèves, and shows plenty of penetrating, high-toned fruit. This wine really insinuates itself – lovely.
2007 Chanson Père et Fils, Gevrey-ChambertinJul. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. Dark fruit and a more spicy, hebal width. Ripe fruit and plenty of structure – freshness too. Frankly, this will need a year or so in bottle, but the underlying fruit is very good.
2007 Roty Joseph, Gevrey-ChambertinApr. 2010
Dark, ripe, slightly sweet aromas. Energy, width and plenty of flavour dimension – very well balanced. Fine villages.
2008 Taupenot-Merme, Gevrey-ChambertinApr. 2010
Dark aromas, this time with hints of wood. In the mouth this starts much narrower than the Morey – it remains quite linear, never really competing with the width of that wine, but it’s intense and long.
1998 Audoin Charles, Gevrey-ChambertinApr. 2010
There’s the impression of some reduction amongst the dark aromas. It seems to be there on the palate too, yet there is balance and a very a tasty wine here. Very good.
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils, Gevrey-ChambertinDec. 2009
Medium colour. Some width, high-toned, eventually a little red fruit peaks through with a floral backing. I’m almost surprised by the sweetness of the fruit. Some slight astringency and decent acidity. Not the pure focus of the previous wines, but nor should there be. Good.