The nose has both depth and density – it is floral and quite distinguished. Full, concentrated and with an undercurrent of acidity; everything expanding further in the mid-palate bringing and extra depth. The length seems to have a stickiness – super-long – bravo!

Understated. The nose has some density but remains rather tight. Silky, ever-widening in the mouth – the intensity grows in tandem. Actually it still grows for a while after you swallow. Super, super length.

There is a gorgeous floral backdrop to deep and stony fruit notes. The plate like wise has a depth of stony fruit – an almost rock-like constitution. Return in 20 years (with luck!)

Understated. The nose has some density but remains rather tight. Silky, ever-widening in the mouth – the intensity grows in tandem. Actually it still grows for a while after you swallow. Super, super length.

There is a gorgeous floral backdrop to deep and stony fruit notes. The plate like wise has a depth of stony fruit – an almost rock-like constitution. Return in 20 years (with luck!)

Given the deep colour I have a concern about oxidation, and there is an edge to the nose, but there’s also still enough detailed, pretty fruit to keep my interest. Across your tongue there’s plenty of freshness and a very good balance. The flavour is quite savoury in the mid-palate and it’s quite long too – detailed but no fireworks. Blind, I certainly wouldn’t assume this to be a grand cru that costs more than €100. Eventually my glass gives up more aromas of oxidation. My neighbour pulls a face when he smells my glass – he enjoyed his very much, but it was from another bottle.

This was a replacement for the previous bottle that was corked. Only in its last 20 minutes did it show any aromatic depth (it was decanted 2 hours before serving), but its supple, brooding approach and achingly long finish were enough to convince.

The best young white I tasted last year, indeed in the last couple of years – expecations were positioned! Pale yellow. The aromas are very tight – the wine was too ambitiously cooled given the 30° temperatures. Some fat, but balanced and with a width on the mid-palate and finishing length that was on another level to the Caillerets – yet disappointing. Okay, if it’s too cold, I’ll encourage it to warm and open by decanting. As it warmed it put on weight, but no sign of the palate staining flavours of last year. Eventually a faint but unmistakable note appeared on the nose – cork. We actually drank it all, as it was still a better wine than the Caillerets, but what should have been a resounding bottle was merely a sombre one – bugger!

The nose instantly shows that you get what you pay for; a superb extra dimension of fruit, broad but not clumsy, it’s fantastic. In the mouth it’s concentrated, even slightly heavy but never cloying. A super-intense mid-palate and achingly long. Wow. Outrageously boisterous and full-packed, even at 198 francs a bottle you could be forgiven for popping one of these already…

A much wider and more complex nose, though some faint estery notes too. Super texture, this wine absolutely stands out for its ceamy complexity in the mid-palate and its awesome finish. I’d only once had a white that ruined the next few reds as its flavour had saturated my palate and refused to leave – that was DRC 2002 Montrachet – this is the second wine to achieve it. Stunning, awesome wine.