Given the long run of Alex’s 2007 and 2008 Bourgogne Chardonnay chez nous, I casually asked Alex how his 2009 was tasting – ‘delicious’ was his answer. Okay, an introductory 6-pack was comandeered – so, is it up to scratch?
2009 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Chardonnay
The nose is rather rich for the appellation, showing a little brioche and with a swirl some ripe fruit. More than a hint of minerality and with a nice initial acidity before filling out in a richer vernacular. It does taste very nice but from the mid-palate onwards I’d just like a hint more acidity. I have to say, the wine was easily despatched, and Alex was right it is very tasty, but based on the mid-palate and finish I would probably would look elsewhere when it comes to re-stocking the cellar – probably to the 2010 now the 2008s are exhausted! Rebuy – Maybe
€280,000 sounds a snip for a 0.76 ha slice of villages Pommard – doesn’t it?
Such a shame the current owner retains full use AFTER you pay him the 280k (plus fees…!) HERE
What better way to start the day than with a trio of Blair Pethel’s Beaunes? All were tasted with Blair last Wednesday (21st).
2007 Dublère, Beaune 1er Les Blanches Fleurs I still have a few bottles of this and it has been unremittingly lovely at home. The nose offers of a wide perspective of relatively complex but perhaps a slightly diffuse interest. In the mouth this is the lovely middleweight I recall; wide, subtle and complex – just a very pretty glass of wine. Rebuy – Yes
2008 Dublère, Beaune 1er Les Blanches Fleurs
There are aromatic similarities between this and the 2007 – wide, interesting yet perhaps just a little diffuse – the fruit just needs a little polish to bring it completely into focus. In the mouth this is a little less like the 07 – clearly there’s another level of intensity, the flavour just grows and grows. Different in character but with similar interest. Rebuy – Yes
2009 Dublère, Beaune 1er Les Blanches Fleurs
Today there is more obvious barrel note on the nose, some herbal complexity too – I find more clarity though than for 07 and 08. Apparently not the same level of intensity delivered by the 08, but there is an understated complexity and a very impressive finish indeed. Rebuy – Yes
Overall, Blair has faithfully translated the vintage characters into his wines; 07 is softer and very pretty, 08 riding on its acidity is the more intense, whereas 09 delivers extra depth (and perhaps concentration too) but without the intensity that an extra drop of acidity brings. A very fine trio!
The bill, comprising two four-course menus, a (mediocre) cheese selection, five glasses of wine and water, came to £170.94. We were in a daze. I felt like crossing the road to remove my moles, warts and polyp, which suddenly sounded like a wholesome value-for-money experience.
Okay, I’m not quite comparing the same wine as the vintages are not quite a match, but they are new wines in my cellar, so…
2009 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers les Dents du Chien
After the 2010 Bouton, this has a little brioche on the nose with higher-toned, faintly agrume fruit. There is more depth and concentration than apparent in the Bouton, if slightly less acidity – so there doesn’t seem to be quite the intensity – but there remains despite the extra richness, balance, and more to contemplate. Very good wine, but then it should be for twice the price of the Bouton Still an easy rebuy for me. Rebuy – Yes
The Bouton 09 St.Aubins became the cuvée maison chez Nanson last year – let’s see how some 10s stack up…
2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Murgers les Dents du Chien
Pale colour. High-toned, fresh, crisp with a fain creamy depth to some herby fruit – rather engaging. Fresh, but not overly so. A decently silky texture and a very nice intensity in the mid palate. Slightly green-tinged fruit in the finish. Tip-top wine for the price. Rebuy – Yes
So, back from the Grands Jours de Bourgogne – a week+ of non-stop tasting opportunities – actually far too many to even ‘do’ 50% of what was available, Chablis to Maçon. I actually joined only for the last half, but still there are almost three hundred notes to write up, ignoring the many ‘social’ bottles that were tested without recourse to my notebook.
Yes, I know – it’s been a bit quiet around here. But I didn’t want to bore you with notes on the same wines that you’ve already (recently) seen/heard about on these pages – I must go to the wineshop! Actually my wineshop is the Côte d’Or and I’ll be there for the next four days, so maybe there will be chance for a few new pictures of bottles!
In the meantime I offer you sight of a new cork-screw – pocket-size it aint, and when I saw it first time on TV it actually broke the cork in half so they had to try again. So, be warned, don’t use it for your old bottles!
It sounds as though Joss was as smitten by the 2010s of Dominique Lafon just as much as I was smitten by the 2009s. On long consideration those 09s were the best whites I tasted from the vintage, with Roulot and Lamy (for their relative ranges) in joint second!
Last time out this wasn’t so bad. This time, if anything, it’s even nicer, losing any overt oxidative notes!
There was a satisfying release of air around the cork as I began to slide it out – positive pressure behind the cork – impressive for one so young(!) In the glass, at first, there was the smell of coffee and chocolate to offset the usual funk of a newly opened old-timer, slowly it became more about leather and soil. Super-silky, linear and mineral with a very sneaky length indeed – yum! It was at least an hour before I, once more, had the glycerol impression from the lst bottle… Rebuy – No Chance!
I looked very carefully, and I could see not obvious use of modern stamping to print the vintage on the rubble that some might call a cork – from that I assume that this is no fake.
1969 Pierre Bourée, Nuits St.Georges
Medium colour. To start with there is no aroma at all, very slowly there is hint of beef broth and a more impressive and sweeter acid cherry. Very silky. You have the taste impression that somewhere there there lies a hint of oxidation but it’s buried under a sweet red note and never becomes more than a suggestion. Pretty with a fine, if understated acidity. Very stable in the glass, and with a lovely core of fruit. My run of excellent 69s continues… Rebuy – No Chance
Indeed, forget part 2, we may have to think about the movie and the book.
Some of the latest updates are here, but overall, WB Forum has always been the beating heart for following this story.
Still an easy rebuy for me.
