2021 Domaine Chevallier, Chablis
There’s no markings – other than domaine markings – but this looks like a Nomacorc – hopefully the second generation…
Here’s a super and quite broad freshness of citrus and salinity – starting riper but opening more and more ith air – what more could I ask? Like the nose a wine of width and a small cushion that adds generosity. The finishing flavours, like the nose, with an accent of salinity and just the faintest lick of phenolics – a little tannin. No pretensions, just a very good villages Chasblis.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 des Croix, Bourgogne
David Croix’s firts vintage with his new domaine. This Bourgogne massively outperformed even this great vintage – helped not just by his winemaking but also by the fact that it contained plenty of villages Beaune and Savigny. It went through a phase where it was a little too fruity – almost cordial in style – but it seems that was a phase. Now it’s all working out fine…
Still deeply coloured. The nose still has plenty of creamy oak framing the fruit – but now it’s starting to show the first suggestion of a little maturity. Supple with a texture of velour – just a tiny, tiny grain of completely ripe tannin supports the flavours. Not a high-strung or structured wine but rather one that is round, ripe and very well shaped – a wine of generosity – shape and flavour – yet never fat or heavy. The label indicates 12.5% alcohol – I might have guessed more – but it drinks very well – a little too well, the bottle is emptying fast! Approaching 20 years old this wine is just about ready!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Agnès & Jean Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py
A strong cork – unlike the one of the de Croix which fell into multiple pieces.
This is dark-red fruit territory with the classical, seemingly lactic background Foillard flavours – but open, clean and very attractive. The des Croix is fuller and very delicious whilst this has a bit more fresh energy – and is also very delicious! The texture is of velour – very modest and ripe tannin supports the flavour – but from the middle to finishing flavours this has a little more open style and energy – withe extra – but attractive – finishing bitters – no surprise on the bitters as this is a baby vs the de Croix. This is very attractive wine right now…
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Domaine Alain Gautheron, Chablis 1er Homme Mort
Here’s a cuvée that developed some green notes – but my nose is seemingly not on green form today as I can’t smell it – but I know that it’s still there – because my better half can still smell it!
Today this has such a lovely nose – vibrating with energy and cool, clean aromas. In the mouth it’s equally vibrant and quite mouth-filling too – impressive complex wine. Delicious.
Rebuy – Maybe

2016 M&C Lapierre, Morgon
The no-sulfur version. And here was a test for it: Opened by Mathieu Lapierre on Thursday afternoon, direct from his cold cellar at the domaine. But then the rest of Thursday and for most of Friday the bottle (stoppered only with its original cork) lay in the back of my car before arriving home in Switzerland. The first 2 glasses were taken on Friday evening – the wine then glass-stoppered in my Fridge until Sunday evening (we were at friends for dinner on Saturday) when I drank the last two glasses.
This was very stable from first to last. A broad nose, finely red fruited with a little vibration of energy, these aromas become ever-more direct and impressive. A juicy wine, still with some modest tannin and fine waves of finishing flavour. This was delicious and ultra-impressively stable for a no-sulfur wine!
Rebuy – Yes