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harvest – 3rd september (part 1…)

This morning, naturally we have sun again; though as the day wore on, the blue sky was replaced by high cloud and some spots of rain – somebody mentions 30mm of rain as the forecast. We no-longer have any indication of hail – long-range suggests cooler weather with plenty of rain next week though.

Taking stock of the whites and reds taken in so-far; the reds so-far are interesting in that the acidity is that of quite a ripe vintage yet the sugar levels are not particularly high – there might be quite some chaptalisation this vintage – the BIVB are suggesting average phenolic levels similar to 2010 – once more, let’s see. The whites are better than our picture of Meursault reveals, though even that wine looks okay in tank – pHs are about 3.3 with 12-12.5 degress of potential alcohol…

Over the road they had some Corton-Charlemagne yesterday – and it would have made the Meursault blush – grapes that needed no sorting and went straight to the press withoput sorting – that team is very happy. Here today, it is a day of red; Pommard, Vosne and Gevrey. The Gevrey villages is coming in two tranches – the old vines (from the lieu dit of Crais) were very nice – tons of earwigs though, I’ve never seen so many – they still needed the unripe berries removing but there was less of that than the previous Côte de Beaunes, and almost no rot. Lunch comes before the second part of this parcel – lovely, lovely lunch – hmm. The second tranche of Crais is younger vines and was reported as less good – the grower dropped some fruit but too late to make much difference – apart from the acetic smell in the vines as everything was left on the ground! The grapes are actually better than forecast – I think somebody worked very hard with the secateurs in the vines – larger berries, even a bit less green berries but a touch more rot – still very low levels.

Next-up is the villages Vosne-Romanée – a vieilles vignes cuvée that usually merits 89-91 or even 09-92 from Burghound. The quantity of grapes is a little less than the Gevrey already triaged. Ladybird-watch will come in part 2…

Yesterday’s collection:

2010 Bourgogne Chardonnay (direct from the tank)
2005 Carrick Excelsior
2009 Santenay Clos Rousseau

2008 Cremant du Jura
2007 Chardonnay du Jura
2008 Clos St.Denis

Some Saturday morning pictures, mainly in and around Beaune…

interesting book…

As a subscriber, I’ve long admired the work of ‘Tong’ – it looks like this may be a must-have…

harvest – 2nd september

Team Camille Giroud 2011
The Home Team 2011.

So every year there are new cast of players at the home domaine:
- Kiwi Anna, sauvignon blanc winemaker at Oyster Bay
- Kiwi Blair, vineyard manager at Carrick
- Springbok Nathaniel, from Nederburg in Paarl
Plus, of-course, the more regular crew – naturally there is no discussion whatsoever about the up-coming rugby world-cup, only how fetching England look in their new black strip!

Today we started with pinot from Beaune 1er Les Avaux – the vines are a good age, but unfortunately they normally deliver quite a large berry size – big surprise this year when I was expecting cherries, the grapes if anything smaller than the Savigny-Peuillets and Aloxe-Valozières of yesterday; virtually nil rot, but again the annoying 1-3 unripened green berries which need to be removed – from almost every bunch – tsk! Still, I expect a good cuvée from this.

By 11:30 we were ready for our first tranche of Meursault – not quite as tough to triage as yesterday’s (which actually tastes quite okay in the settlement tank), but not fun either – it turns out that there had been hail in this vineyard and whilst there was no obvious hail damage, we had to run the table pretty slow.

Ladybird quotient is perhaps a hint lower than yesterday but there are still many.

Lovely lunch…

Of-course when doing whites you have to wait for the press to finish it’s run before you can start the next lot of triage – it was close to 4pm before we started to remove (just the same amount of) rot; very slow table and and the mercury touching on 30°C. I think in my 8th consecutive year of harvesting, that’s a temperature record. The storms and hail have been put back a day, just like every day for the last 3 – we are certainy lucky compared to Bordeaux…

Just for the record, and as an hommage to the ladybirds, yesterday we consumed:

04 Griotte
04 Latricières
04 Clos St.Denis
04 Carrick Pinot Noir (screwcapped, no ladybirds – like the Griotte – and perhaps the best!)
08 Chassagne Morgeot (red)

harvest – 1st september (part 2)

Another lovely, sunny and warm day – storms were forecast but they’ve been put back to friday (tomorrow) let’s see. Today we triaged a mountain of Savigny 1er Les Peuillets and a small hill (3 barrels) of Aloxe 1er cru. To follow was Meursault; I asked ‘villages?’ yes was the answer, but then with a smile the boss says ‘but not just any villages Meursault, these are from just under Poruzots!’ – there can never be enough delimitations in Burgundy ;-)

And what of the the grapes? I hear you ask…

Pinot noir: Well, so-far, comparing the vineyards that I’ve triaged almost every year, the level of rot is rather low, 2006-levels. The grape sizes are, however, relatively large – rare are the small bunches of tiny grapes delivered by 2010. But despite the lack of rot, triage is important as almost every bunch has some verjus/unripe green berries – all must be removed. Decently ripe, clean but large grapes – we’ll wait for the results of the analytics, but I can see the word ‘saignée’ is on some people’s minds. Early days yet…

Chardonnay: Just too early to say. One vineyard has offered some of the best looking fruit I’ve ever seen – varying degrees of ripeness but perfectly clean with tiny berries – some were so small that there was no room for pips. Our second batch of chardonnay was less inspiring; good ripeness, but the grapes were fragile and shot-through with plenty of botrytis – so much for ‘just below Poruzots’! Still, two more cuvées of Meursault tomorrow, so I’ll have a slightly better data-set after that.

The elphant in the room is the quantity of ladybirds. The photos are not in any way staged, but represent what has been triaged through the vibrating table. This piece of kit has removed about 99% of the beetles from the clusters so it’s relatively rare to see them on the moving belt triage table, but of-course they fly and we certainly have them in the fermentation tanks. Versus 2004 there are definitely more of them this year, however, less are within the clusters which was quite common in 2004, so we see less on the table this year. Comparisons of how many were and are in the fermentation tanks – I don’t have. It is certainly of concern to me.

Jasper popped in to say ‘hi’ today…

There have, of-course, also been some wines. To protect the innocent and guilty alike I’ll keep the list minimalist…

Yesterday:
09 Chassagne Tête du Clos
03 Bourgogne
03 Beaune
02 Gevrey Lavaux St.Jacques

02 Aloxe Boutières
02 Beaune Pertiusots

Today’s list might not yet be complete!

I haven’t had chance to have a read yet, but the Domaine de la Vougeraie has also started their page of vintage reports which you can find here.

harvest – 1st september (part 1)

Just a few snatched photos, taken on my way into ‘the office’ this morning…

paul pillot 2008 chassagne 1er clos-st-jean…

paul-pillot-2008-chassagne-clos-st-jean

2008 Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean (rouge)
Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep with a subtle oak toast and dark berries overlaid with some violet notes. Lovely acidity and with it super mid-palate intensity. The flavours are dark and quite long-lasting with a little bitter-chocolate. Very understated tannin – overall this is a very good wine with decent value, selling at only 2/3rds the price of the white version.
Rebuy – Yes

harvest – 31st August…

A beautiful sunny day today – and what a lots of grapes – we finished triage just after 9pm – the start was before 9am; pinot from Volnay Caillerets, Volnay Lurets and a couple of Volnay Villages lieu-dits, Beaune Cras and the chardonnay of Chassagne Tête du Clos.

The harvest quality was looking a little dodgy about 10 days ago following lots of rain and high temperatures – the rot was starting to appear. The ‘traditional’ north wind didn’t come to save the day, but the last days of quite hot weather, despite the moist wind of the south-west seem to have delayed any major onset of rot. Today was a mere 23°C, but it is forecast to get warmer, and wetter – rot can still be a big problem for later ripening vineyards. As for ripening, it’s clearly site specific as I understand that Leroy have already picked their Richebourg…

A few pics from today, and I’ll talk more about the grapes and those little red critters tomorrow – one of which is walking across my laptop screen…

le harvest!

harvest-2011

The time is nigh – I’ll be at the triage table from tomorrow for five days.

Despite the early predictions of mid-August harvesting and the hot weather of the last couple of weeks, many will not start their picking until the calendar turns to September. There’s a big difference between Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits ripeness this year, in fact the ripeness border is sitting somewhere around Beaune just now. I know a number of estates that started to take in some CdB Bourgogne Rouge and parcels of villages whites (Meursault for instance) at the weekend; the first premier crus of Nicolas Rossignol (Volnay Les Angles) were harvested yesterday. Yet as contributors to the forum note, many (though not all) vines in Savigny need the best part of a week longer and so it goes as you head north.

The photos above are this year’s Meursault, Volnay and ladybirds – I’ll be watching out for those little blighters!

Vintage news. More tomorrow…

offer of the day – bertrand ambroise…

DOMAINE BERTRAND AMBROISE 2010

CÔTE DE NUITS VILLAGES 2010 75cl 18.00 (Swiss francs)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2010 75cl 29.00
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 2010 75cl 38.00

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Vaucrains 2010 75cl 46.00

CORTON Le Rognet Grand Cru 2010 75cl 65.00
CORTON Le Rognet Grand Cru 2010 150cl 135.00
CLOS DE VOUGEOT Grand Cru 2010 75cl 79.00

To my Swiss franc eyes, these don’t look like bad prices but I haven’t yet become used to the ‘franc fort’ – I suppose they don’t look so good in GBP/Euro. That said, I’ve never bought the wines…

olivier père 2008 santenay coteaux sous la roche…

olivier-2008-santenay-coteaux-sous-la-roche

This wine had the gpood fortune of following the Potel 09 Chardonnay – it was always going to taste nice by comparison…

2009 Olivier Père et Fils, Santenay Les Coteaux Sous La Roche (blanc)
Medium-pale. The nose is quite buscuity/toasty bread with an underlying sweetness. In the mouth there’s lovely acidity and sweetness though to start it seems there’s a bit of a hole in the middle – give it a few minutes and the intensity increases and it comes into a good place. Everybody wanted a top-up from this one!
Rebuy – Yes

maison nicolas potel 2009 bourgogne chardonnay

nicolas-potel-2009-chardonnay

Just a quick test, and this wine failed. No polemic about changes of ownership, but this is a poor bottle of Burgundy. I know it’s cheap, but everyone chose a Bonterra Chardonnay ahead of this flabby, tasteless mix…

2009 Maison Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles-Vignes
Pale colour. Very little to say aromatically – tight as a drum. In the mouth flat, close to flabby – clearly low acidity. The flavours are non-descript and bland. Nobody wanted their glasses to be topped up.
Rebuy – No

the grand crus of pommard…

No, it’s not April the 1st!

A large exercise that could be compared to pissing into the wind. That said, why not, Pommard is unfairly overlooked in the market so why not build up a bit of interest, although I don’t think Aubert Lefas (of Domaine Lejeune) comparing themselves to those grand cru paragons – the Clos de Vougeot or Corton – is the height of overselling ;-)
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