brexit – c’est compliqué

By billn on June 24, 2016 #warning - opinion!

the-sun-front-page-09.03.16-1Well, it’s decided!

Speaking as a Brit who has lived outside the UK for over 16 years now, who gets by in German at home, and ‘almost’ gets by in French in my second (third?) home, it would come as no surprise that, on balance, I was more of a ‘remain’ than a ‘Brexit’ – but it’s more complicated than that…

France seems an out-liner for the (old!) future of the EU, mired in Bureaucracy; most official ‘things’ having to be signed in triplicate in the home of the ‘C’est la France – c’est compliqué!’ I didn’t like that, nor did I like the massive un-elected facet of much of the apparent workings of the EU – but they were counter-balanced by an inclusiveness that I liked very much. It is strange that the people fighting against that are not just (some) politicians, but also the terrorists that would have us separated/segregated and hiding behind our front doors.

The campaign left a very bad taste though; dirty, pseudo racist messages from an Arthur Daley lookalike – but significantly less trustworthy. What to think of an apathetic Labour ‘leadership’ – in the end it was their lack of dynamism towards their own constituency that decided the vote. How in the future to trust the people who delivered such a cynical and downright lying (miss-leading is too small a word – however it looks when written) campaign. There were always going to be short-term and potentially long-term consequences. And what of those poor ‘non-English’ regions that voted overwhelmingly to remain in the EU?

I always felt there was a chance that ‘things’ could be better for the UK in 5-10 years, post-Brexit, maybe also for the EU, if they are sufficiently shocked from their fat complacency – but the two have to retain strong ties – isolation can cause withering and death. But now is the time for everyone to do what is best for all those that took the time to vote, whichever way they voted…

Okay, that’s enough politics for this year – enjoy your weekend wherever you may be…!

David Croix – on the move…

By billn on June 23, 2016 #producer update#the market

DSC08818There’s no doubt that David Croix has been very busy at two Beaune producers for the last years; working at, and then overseeing, Maison Camille Giroud since 2001 and his own Domaine des Croix (with investors), since 2005. But at the end of this year he will be making some big changes:

“I’m proud of what we have achieved at Camille Giroud, and 15 years has gone by really quickly, but I’ve decided that it’s time for a change. It’s really possible that a fresh pair of eyes and hands can take Camille Giroud to a new level – which I’m really hoping for. So the 2016 harvest will be my last for Camille Giroud as I will be moving to a new project at the end of the year. Whilst Domaine des Croix is my priority, it won’t be my only project – you can imagine that I wouldn’t want to be bored (he jokes) – after-all, at the moment I have over 40 different cuvées at these two domaines – I’d be moving to ‘only 11’ at Domaine des Croix!”

Given that it’s 6 months away David prefers, for the moment, not to be drawn on his new project:

“It’s just not the right time, I have clear priorities at Camille Giroud and des Croix right now. But I can confirm that we will be announcing my replacement at Giroud very soon.”

weekend wines from week 24…

By billn on June 22, 2016 #degustation

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Just a couple of modest ones to start with then another where I didn’t take a photo – slapped wrists!
A good set this weekend!

1999 Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Au Dessus des Malconsorts
Deep colour. The nose is fresh, if a little meaty with macerating plum fruit. In the mouth this is fresh and still with a modest structure. It feels great in the mouth and has plenty of flavour complexity – tasty flavour too. It could certainly have more delicacy, but then so few 99s show that. Relatively large-scaled and tasty, and given Gilles pricing, what’s not to love!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
The colour is a dead-ringer for the 99 Remoriquet, though this nose is a little less attractive – it’s much more herb-driven. Unlike the nose, there is fine sweetness and complexity of fruit on the palate – it’s quite large-scaled wine, also like the Remoriquet. I like the vibrancy and freshness of the structured delivery – darkly-fruited. Despite the nose I think this very good indeed – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Vougeraie, Vougeot 1er Les Cras
Hmm – this smells very nice – some floral references that nicely lift a slightly cooked but generous fruit. A more cushioned palate than either of the 99s, but not at the expense of freshness. I find a nicely layered delivery of fruit here and it holds well in the finish too. Also a very yum wine, and not just the most accessible but also the tastiest of this trio today. Super!
Rebuy – Yes

summer!

By billn on June 22, 2016 #vintage 2016

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Pommard Les Chanlins Hautes…

I didn’t want to depress you (me actually!) with a picture of yesterday’s first day summer – low cloud and rain, indeed rain through the whole night of the the 20th too – but by mid-afternoon yesterday, there was blue sky and by 6pm the temperature had increased to t-shirt level!’ Luckily as it was the Fêtes de Music in Beaune, so some drinks and ‘dodgy’ live bands had to be experienced!

Whilst some places like Savigny are still behind the flowering curve, the majority of those later flowers will be open today and tomorrow – days forecast to be sunny with 29-30°C. Today I jogged around Pommard and Volnay – camera in hand! Here again not all the flowers are visible, but some have also clearly finished flowering too. As we might now expect, given that there have been no really settled periods so-far in 2016, the weekend is forecast to be ‘changeable,’ perhaps even stormy…

There’s plenty of work in the vineyards though – the weeds are massive – one thing that certainly wasn’t curtailed by the frost! Many a vigneron are saying that it’s one of the most obvious aspects of the growing season, so-far. There are also plenty of people spraying, despite the ongoing flowering, as there’s a lot of concern about mildew. Otherwise there’s weeding, de-budding and even some canopy trimming at the moment.
 

more (or less) flowers…

By billn on June 20, 2016 #travels in burgundy 2016#vintage 2016

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Beaune 1er Bas du Teurons on Friday.

We’re still not into what I’d call mid-flowering here in the Côte d’Or.

Although there have been flowers here and there all over the Côte d’Or, particularly in the perfectly located grand crus, but it’s easy to see that virtually nothing was flowering in most of Savigny over the weekend. Looking at the frosted vineyards – which is the majority of Savigny – I counted about 10 clusters per 10 vines – pre-flowering of-course.

I did a short tour in Beaune on Friday too – there’s more flowering here, but still less than a third of the clusters were flowering. Still we had a nice sunny afternoon on Sunday and Monday/Tuesday look like nice weather – much should be underway by then – I expect!

A few pics from my wanderings mainly in Savigny, Friday-Sunday:
 

easily better than poland vs germany – though shorter…

By billn on June 17, 2016 #degustation

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A pre-weekend, football wine – and in this case, it didn’t outlast the game – indeed it was more exciting than the game – I’m looking at you Poland and Germany!!

2002 Domaine du Clos Frantin, Vosne-Romanée
The current Clos Frantin differs from this wine, due to an exchange of vines with Domaine d’Eugenie – the original Clos Frantin is now renamed Clos Eugenie – there remains Damaudes from above La Tâche in the blend, but now with other parcels exchanged with Eugenie.
Hmmm – clean, intense, picture-perfect, spicy-fruited Vosne-Romanée – okay a suggestion of vanilla too, but on a level that I’ll forgive! Beautifully balanced in the mouth, with crisp, fresh but ripe-fruited flavours that fill the mouth with joy. Whilst this will almost certainly get better as the fruit seems so young, it is simply a beautifully delicious wine today. If the speed that a bottle empties is a useful measure, then this is a top wine today!
Rebuy – Yes

gueguen’s 2014 chablis 1er vaucoupin

By billn on June 15, 2016 #degustation

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Whilst I might wish that there was a little more sunshine for enjoying this, it seems that it brings a little sunshine of its own!

2014 Domaine Gueguen, Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
This nose is a real beauty; fresh citrus and salt – here come goosebumps! Vibrant in the mouth. Gorgeously sweet acidity and like the nose with plenty of citrus in the flavour. A long, narrow line of joy for the mid-palate and finishing flavour. This is simply an uplifting wine – I can already see that the clouds have silver linings – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

where was the p.ox?

By billn on June 14, 2016 #degustation#p.ox

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Yes, I know that we were lucky girls and boys, but 14 whites were opened and appraised (drunk!) last night in Zürich – and we were all very happy bunnies. 13x Meursault and one ‘pirate’ a Puligny! Hardly an oxidative note – save a couple that smelled of cider, but didn’t taste like that! Generally, all-round happy faces.

I’ll right it up for the report, but always good to know…

‘floraison’

By billn on June 14, 2016 #vintage 2016

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Vineyard Floraison

The weather is far from settled – or for that matter, warm – we have about 18-22° in the forecast for this week – more rain than sun, too!

But the first/early flowers can be seen, here and there, across the Côte de Nuits. It looks like we will be in ‘peak flowering’ by the end of the week, certainly the weekend. So, for argument’s sake, let’s say Friday for mid-flowering, add 100 days, equals harvesting from the 25th September(?) Let’s see…

I’ll keep you posted…

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