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devevey’s 2011 beaune 1er pertuisots…

devevy-2011-beaune-pertuisots

Jonah time again!

Whilst the few Devevey wines that have passed my lips I remember enjoying – particularly so, the whites – I’ve never-yet managed to pay a visit to understand more about this domaine. However, here is a wine that for more than one reason, I wouldn’t buy again – a shame as it’s one of my favourite Beaune 1ers too…

2011 Devevey Beaune 1er Pertuisots
Bright medium colour. The nose has a faint undertow of P, but overwhelmingly the aromas are dominated by pretty, precise red berry notes, whilst in the background there’s also a greener, herby note. Fresh and lithe – there’s a bit of an acid-kick in the mid-palate too – for-sure not the ripest of wines; yet it has energy and character – I’m enjoying this first glass. Truth be told, over 3 hours this gradually got meaner and the P component became a bit more obvious…
Rebuy – No

1999 l’arlot, domaine de l’arlot

larlot-1999

My first wine at home in this new year – assuming the cork was a good one, I was pretty sure it should be a good start – and so it was. 1999 is the second-largest vintage in my cellar – maybe I’ll try a few more this year…

1999 l’Arlot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de l’Arlot
Just a little bit more than medium colour. Hmmm – what a forward, round and friendly mix of white chocolate, whole cluster aromas and roses – a real friendly ‘punch’. In the mouth there’s a palpable weight of fat texture that’s cut with good acidity – this wine is incredibly enjoyable – yet, seems a little soft at the core for ‘brilliant’. Return to the glass a couple of hours later and the whole cluster anecdotes are a little more green and resinous – though they are what they are – yet there now seems better definition in the mid-palate – swings and roundabout. Overall I’m preferring this now, to drink. Throughout there has been a steady baseline of velvet tannin. This seems in a good place right now, but clearly no rush at all to drink!
Rebuy – Yes

Happy New Year…

jayer-gilles 1993 nuits hautes poirets

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1993 Jayer-Gilles, Nuits St.Georges Les Hautes Poirets
Deeply coloured – still. The nose has undergrowth, dark brambles and the remnants of dark toasty oak; dark and interesting I’d say. Perhaps still a little too much toasty oak flavour but it’s the first assault before a wave a fresh, acid-borne intensity and dark fruit – really mouth-watering flavour. There is still a very faint layer of velvet tannin, so this is still something of a baby – but a communicative one…
Rebuy – Yes

bonne fin de 2013…

xmas

Wishing everybody a more fruitful and fun 2014…

offer of the day – louis jadot 2012…

DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT 2012 – Subscription

SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE La Dominode 2012 75cl 32.00 (Swiss francs)

BEAUNE Clos des Ursules Monopole 2012 75cl 59.00
BEAUNE Clos des Ursules Monopole 2012 150cl 123.00

CORTON Pougets 2012 75cl 79.50
CORTON Grèves 2012 75cl 85.00

VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Beaux-Monts 2012 75cl 89.50
VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Suchots 2012 75cl 98.00
VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Petits-Monts 2012 75cl 105.00
VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Malconsorts 2012 75cl 135.00

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2012 75cl 45.00
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Les Fuées 2012 75cl 86.00
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Les Amoureuses 2012 75cl 335.00

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Cazetiers 2012 75cl 135.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Clos Saint-Jacques 2012 75cl 135.00

CLOS DE VOUGEOT 2012 75cl 119.50
ECHEZEAUX 2012 75cl 158.00
CLOS SAINT DENIS 2012 75cl 235.00
CLOS DE LA ROCHE 2012 75cl 168.00
MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 2012 75cl 168.00
CHAMBERTIN Clos de Bèze 2012 75cl 289.00
CHAMBERTIN 2012 75cl 279.00
BONNES-MARES 2012 75cl 298.00
Musigny 2012 75cl 685.00

Some of these prices are quite comparable to the 2009 offer – indeed the Savigny is cheaper! – others, such as Amoureuses amd Musigny (only if you buy plenty of other wines…), are more a case of ‘think of a number, then double it!‘ Still, versus lots of scare stories, these are not the order of magnitude greater suggested…

when ‘white wine’ isn’t really the correct descriptor!

old-uns
I love the real, versus the ‘pretend’ fraying on these labels!

It’s certainly not worth giving ‘tasting notes’ to these wines, but they helped me get through 3 days of 18 hours, finishing the last Burgundy Report.

I bought a couple of lots at auction; bottles of 82 Sauzet Puligny (villages) and 1990 Maurice Chapuis Corton-Charlemagne. The two ugliest bottles (darkest colour) from both lots, I decided to open first.

The Sauzet was the colour of sherry and almost had the smell of it too – an initial sip was not positive. I waited 2 hours and, by magic, the oxidative note was only a 10th of the intensity with which it started – the colour remained dark. It actually tasted not bad now and had a nice core of sweetness from the fruit. I drunk the lot over the 3 days – it was completely stable after that initial 2 hour wait. I now look forward to those bottles of lighter colour!

The Chapuis had a very similar colour, a similar nose too. This also improved dramatically after 2 hours exposure to the air – but the level of oxidative flavour remained stronger than for the Sauzet. The wine is less sweet (despite the vintage) and more mineral. In combination with the nose I would describe it (still) as austere – I only managed about one-third of this bottle and I’m not sure if I look forward to the lighter bottles or not(!) anyway no point torturing yourself is there – the typing was enough ;-)

ponsot’s 2011 alouettes…

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2011 Ponsot, Morey St.Denis 1er Cuvée Les Alouettes
Pretty crystalline fruit on the nose with just a faint note of P. Sweet and very pretty, with plenty of mouth-watering acidity. This is actually very, very tasty, despite…
Rebuy – No

debray 2011 hautes côtes de beaune…

2011 Domaine Debray, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Hardly more than rosé colour – let’s see if that matters: The nose has width and shows good red fruit with a little P. A little fat with pretty red fruit flavours – this is very tasty. See, the colour didn’t matter, and this is something of a bargain if you don’t mind the pyrazine note.
Rebuy – No

a few weekend bottles…

le-weekend
Standing tall – just before visiting the glass recycling!

2010 Camille-Giroud, Beaune 1er Aux Cras
On first opening, I’m surprised by how much whole-cluster character is showing – sort of cotton-wool / powdery / smoky / floral. These anecdotes gradually fade into the background, offering red fruits and occasional hints of balsamic. The palate is wide and has good concentration of flavour that really holds, indeed reprises, into the finish. The tannin has a little sticky-grab just now, but the flavour is just lovely.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Michel Lafarge, Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Both the nose and palate start with slightly green-shaded herbal references. Time in glass helps to develop much more interest; aromas of dark-red fruit though not especially focused. In the mouth, there’s plenty of structure on display but just as much mouth-watering flavour too – indeed, quite stony flavour in the finish – an extra-long finish. When you don’t see the vintage, you will be impressed, sight of the label, however, redefines my expectations. This is a very lovely wine, but not one that currently shows what 2005 is capable of.
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Gerard Mugneret, Chambolle-Musigny 1er, Les Charmes
Wax-topped. Still pretty deeply coloured. The first few sniffs are of quite nice dark-red fruit but it’s disturbed by a little sulfite – air and 30 minutes cures the problem. The dark-red fruit remains and it plumbs fine depth – above high tones and a faint spice. Here is a wine that did an about-face with food: To start, the entry was lithe and narrow, lively acidity and still plenty of grainy tannin – though not astringent. With my first mouthful of food, this seemed to gain a little fat and the impression left by the tannin was much finer! Super extra dimension of high-toned red-fruit flavour in the mid-palate too – this is still showing a little masculinity but the flavours are really super. I would say that this is still a relative baby, needing at least 5 more years to lessen the impact of the wine’s structure – but there’s already sweet, beguiling, cool fruit for the intrepid!
Rebuy – Yes

kurniawan-a-go-go…

sackvilee-sackville

It takes bad news to get wine on the front pages (okay, near the front pages!) of many periodicals – but here is such a case. In this selection of reports you will note that many of those periodicals are important US news-gatherers-disseminators – but then the trial is in New York and has the odd NY billionaire testifying! It makes a great angle for newspapers that a billionaire can be defrauded by a young, foreigner, illegally living in the US.

Actually, far from bad news, I think this is great news. Forgers have had an easy a life in wine circles. It really should be time for some payback! Anyone can get away with forging Bordeaux it seems, but eventually it is Burgundy that trips people up. Hopefully Kurniawan will eventually sing like a canary, because most of the producers involved don’t believe he had the knowledge to work alone…

Whilst its 160 pages (plus…) length, its breadth and its meanderings now make it largely un-navigable, you should know that the mother-thread for all that is Kurniawan, is housed here on WineBerserkers. Doubtless, you can add half a dozen other reports to those bulleted above, but Don Cornwell’s occasional (and quite full) reports from the trial, are to be found (towards the end) of the linked WineBerserkers thread – like this – they are not to be missed.

just a perfect day…

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three fine chassagne blanc 1ers from 2011…

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First ski days of the new season with friends – I brought three bottles – one per night, right? Oh dear! Well at least there were three of us, so it was ‘only’ one bottle each. Brilliant opportunity to properly compare and contrast though!

2011 Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Medium-plus yellow colour. The nose starts mainly with toasty bread, however, it blows away relatively quickly to leave behind a mix of high-tones that include white flower blossom. It’s now really quite pretty. There’s a little rasp to to texture (CO2 I suppose) but there’s fine depth and a wide panorama of flavour – I’m very-much enjoying this! As the glass warms the effect becomes (dare I say it) a little flabby, but keep it max.14°C and all is very well. Overall it has energy and focus with just a little minerality as you reach the finish. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Vincent Dancer, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Tête du Clos
The nose on this, also starts rather toasty – and in this case with a faint reductive note too. The palate is just a little fatter and shows a rubber ‘flavour’ – there’s the reduction for you – luckily it soon goes – and the nose blossoms as it goes, showing more green-skinned fruit and herbs. Round, with a concentrated core of fruit, the acidity provides almost a crispy halo around the dense fruit. Sweetly finishing, those flavours tenaciously hold onto your tongue. Very, very nice indeed. Tossing a metaphorical coin, I have a very slight preference for the minerality of the Morey-Coffinet.
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
The nose starts not quite so wide but there is an (auto?) suggestion of faint mint – no toast. The nose slowly builds density yet remains airy and fine. The palate has more density than the previous two wines, the acidity slowly, slowly making its presence felt and holding a good line into the finish. Clearly this has the most density and dimension of these three wines. I go back to the Morey-Coffinet for it’s minerality but it seems a little mean now in comparison. Very, very tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

These are classic 2011s – very very tasty, if not with the pure focus of the 2010s, and they need a closer eye on temperature than the 2010s too – if you want to avoid them getting a little out of shape…

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