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Rebuy – Yes (2009)

2003 (château) chorey-lès-beaune

2003 (château) chorey-lès-beaune

2003 Chateau de Chorey, Chorey-lès-Beaune Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a ripe, macerating acid-red cherry centre. The fruit flavour is a mix of darker cherry – shaded much more to black. Good acidity and with a rasp to the tannin. A very nice dimension of good fruit in the mid-palate and quite okay length. Many of the most successful 03s come from the less vaunted appellations – here’s a perfect example that shows better than Chorey from most other vintages. Rebuy – Yes

2005 drouhin beaune 1er clos des mouches blanc

2005 drouhin beaune 1er clos des mouches blanc

[QPR (or the quality versus price paid ratio) is something I consider is often overlooked by the chain of hands that deliver bottles into the market, clearly it's an important factor for the people at the end of that chain of-course. This diary entry started as a note on a single bottle with a great reputation, but a spiralling (upwards) price-point. It was good, but maybe not THAT good - I was forced to pull out a benchmark to compare...] I often wonder who buys this Drouhin wine, particularly 2005 vintage onwards, it really is priced very high (for a Beaune 1er), like a Corton-Charlemange and more than most Puligny 1ers. I should occasionally step outside my fiscal comfort-zone to investigate, so here’s the ridiculously [....]

modest saturday lunchtime bottles…

modest saturday lunchtime bottles…

It’s a while since I met up with Marc, so we decided to open a couple of ‘lunchtime’ bottles together. I started at 7:30am by slowly easing out the cork from a 1972 Domaine du Clos Frantin Grands-Echézeaux – it smelled mighty fine. I popped in a stopper and then left it in a cool place for lunchtime. Marc’s approach was different, but just as effective: the 2005 Bouchard Pere Clos de Bèze was simply popped and poured. 80% of the way through the proceedings Marc suggested an interesting counterpoint – a 2004 Schubert Block B NZ pinot noir from the Wairapara. 1972 Clos Frantin, Grands-Echézeaux A slightly porty fruit quickly, but not entirely gives way to beef, almonds, width and warmth – impressive and [....]

2008 jadot bourgogne chardonnay

2008 jadot bourgogne chardonnay

I already pcked my ‘house white‘ for 2010, but this is close in quality yet with a big advantage – it’s 60% of the cost. Hmm, next year could be tough! 2008 Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Chardonnay This starts with that faintly sherbet note you often find on wines with less punch from the more marginal villages – think St.Romain. There’s a little faint oak note note that helps fill-out the aromas at the bottom and eventually a much more favourable core of yellow fruit. Above average intensity for the label, very fine acidity – then a surprise – a deep and clear extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate; a little wood-derived vanilla cream; it’s a warm, Côte de Beaune type of flavour that would [....]

fourrier 2001 vougeot 1er les petits vougeots

fourrier 2001 vougeot 1er les petits vougeots

There are plenty of reports, predominantly from the US, that Fourrier’s 2001s have their problems – in particular they seem to becoming more and more volatile. Well here’s one that I anyway didn’t like when I first tasted it (way back in 2004). But that bottle was reductive in character, rather than volatile – this (surprisingly), turned out rather nice… 2001 Fourrier, Vougeot 1er Les Petits Vougeots Vieilles Vignes Medium ruby-red colour, still a hint of cherry-red. There’s a little herb and an undercurrent of red fruit – everything is quite tidy. In the mouth this is barely medium-bodied, very slightly acid-forward (but that’s its age) but smooth overall. A little tight, but not unrewarding. Actually far better than my first bottle of this some [....]

2006 bouchard père monthélie 1er clos les champs fulliot

Not that cheap, but a very good wine: 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Monthélie 1er Clos les Champs Fulliot This is a ‘domaine’ wine. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. There’s width and interest on this perfumed, high-toned nose – very pretty indeed, almost in a Volnay style. The texture has a slightly gravelly tannin as its base, but the balance is very, very good. There’s some faint licorice flavours in the finish from what is otherwise a red-fruit dominated performance. Oh and it’s quite a good finish too. Rebuy – Yes

2000 antonin guyon corton-charlemagne

2000 Antonin Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne Medium-plus golden colour. Despite the colour, there is no trace of oxidation here, rather it is forward but well integrated sweet brioche oak, behind is a good, freshly mineral base. Concentrated, silkily, waxily smooth texture. The acidity is understated and the flavours are a mix of the mineral and savoury. Very mineral finish that is also very long. This should be at it’s best in another 4 or 5 years, but it did rather on day1 – day two was even better! Rebuy – Yes

06 bouchard père et fils volnay 1er caillerets cuvée carnot

I may have criticised the last Bouchard (the Mercurey) for it’s relative (versus quality) value, and here is a wine that has more than doubled in price since the 2002 vintage, yet despite being unhappy about that, there is something innate and worth paying for in a good Volnay – and this has the potential for very good! 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnot The nose shows a width of creamy red fruit and perhaps has a rose-petal dimension too – really very pretty. Plenty of concentration, the tannin is slightly forward but of velvet texture. A good additional fruit dimension in the mid-palate with understated but balancing acidity. The flavour of the finish remains very barrel-influenced today, but is very [....]

2006 albert bichot beaune 1er champimonts

2006 Albert Bichot, Beaune 1er Champimonts Medium cherry-red. High-toned perfume of crunchy cherry-fruit eventually a little creamy oak. There is good width and an edge of fat to the texture too. A creamy vanilla-oak barrel note runs through the core of this and into the mid-palate. Medium, slightly peppery tannin and a good length. For my taste this needs a little cellar time to both round out and to reduce the barrel flavour, but it’s ripe, sweet and tasty already today, and was a very good price. Rebuy – Yes

2008 chablis réserve de vaudon

My first 2008 from bottle. 2008 Domaine Vaudon, Chablis Réserve de Vaudon Medium-pale lemon-yellow. The nose starts in a forward way, the aromas are somewhere on the border between oak toast and earthy minerality – it’s a great balancing act – slowly it is more towards the toasty bread part of the spectrum. In the mouth, the concentration gives a decent slightly oily, padded texture, but it’s a transient impression as the zinging grapefruit-style acidity takes hold. There is a sweetness that is the perfect foil to that grapefruit. Refreshing, not bad length, this is superb for the price and already a candidate for house wine 2010! A small amount left for day 2 had no trace of toast whatsoever, but was also missing that [....]

2000 pavelot savigny-lès-beaune 1er la dominode

2000 pavelot savigny-lès-beaune 1er la dominode

2000 Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode Medium-plus colour, still a hint of cherry-red colour. The nose is rather ‘anti-2000′ with a beacon of pure, fresh, faintly blue-skinned fruit at the core and a top note that is slightly more diffuse and herby (that’s a little more 2000!). The palate is not as plush as it was in its youth, but the late attack of the tannins I noticed in previous bottles is now gone – they are are certainly still there if you look for them, but are no problem now. Decently balanced, it’s as ripe as most 2000s but with a fresher aspect to the aromas. Decently concentrated and showing a wiry muscle, I regret only buying 6, I regret even more that only 3 [....]

1999 guy castagnier clos de la roche

Tempting fate (as yesterday’s Corton was okay though the previous bottled had been corked) I went to this Castagnier – the last bottle of which was also corked! Another success… 1999 Guy Castagnier, Clos de la Roche Medium-plus colour, still with some cherry-red in the mix. Deep, sweet beetroot, brown sugar and a dark red/black confiture fruit encasing a core of some minerality – the last drops in the glass show beautiful raised red fruits. Perfectly balanced acidity that keeps your mouth watering, yet the supporting sweetness ensures no sharpness. The finely-grained tannins are very-much fading into the background. Medium plus finish. A balanced and very pretty wine that is slowly adding some complexity and is very 99, but it’s not obviously grand cru – [....]

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