Rebuy – Yes (2006)

1995 Dujac, Clos de la Roche (From Magnum) Medium, medium-plus ruby-red, and a little brighter than the 75cl bottle that I last opened. The nose takes time to get into it’s stride; starting with faint smoke and a slightly estery width, but there is an ever-sweetening and intensifying core of red fruit that eventually becomes more floral – though it’s a heavy rather than refined scent – impressive and moreish all the same. The slowly intensifying fruit on the nose is mirrored by the taste, always building in the mouth, just a transient petillance too. Good acidity and dry but not blocky tannin and long with a dark-fruit aspect to the finish. The stems don’t seem to engender the fresh purity of some wines, but [....]

Despite an occasional whiff of something more like cork taint – though never on the palate – this wine is that very rare thing; a perfectly stunning example of a cheap burgundy – and to die for… 1999 Francois Gay, Ladoix Deep ruby red. The nose first shows toasty, spicy oak, straight high tones and occasional glimpses a lovely penetrating red raspberry/redcurrant fruit. In the mouth this is fresh, with black edged ripe fruit, quite linear all the way into the finish accompanied by a slightly astringent, grainy tannin. Excellent. Rebuy – Yes – in quantity, though unlikely to find…

2004 Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les VergersMedium-pale lemon yellow. There’s a well-integrated nose of toasted bread and rich fruit. Very forward acidity is the initial impression. The acidity is very smooth and very mineral in aspect, initially rather dominating the linear fruit, but there’s no missing that sneaky and very creamy length. Once my palate adjusted (I don’t think the wine materially changed) I was able to see the extra kick of citrus edged fruit in the mid-palate and appreciate the super purity. Drink this today direct from the fridge or with a buttery sauced dish, alternatively store away for 5 years before revisiting. On day two there’s quite a honied aspect to this wine, and less intensity to the acidity. I preferred day 1. Rebuy [....]

2004 Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet Pale yellow. The nose launches forward with ripe, citrus edged fruit before settling into a more brioche dominated lime fruit. The palate retains the citrus edge to its sweet fruit, though the key attribute is the mouthwatering acidity. This wine exemplifies perfectly the vintage – lovely aromatics and fresh presentation – yet it also shows the achilles heel, just not quite enough density at the villages level for enjoying on its own – perfect with food though! One glass was left overnight in the open bottle in the refridgerator, it was as fresh as the night before. Rebuy – Yes 2004 Albert Bichot, Savigny-Lès-Beaune Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a herby, minty element before high-toned raspberry fruit starts to [....]