By billn on December 25, 2006
Christmas lunch was a long, leisurely affair. First we took the 2002 Fevre Chablis Bougros as an aperitif, then with food took two Piesporter Goldtropfchens – a 2004 and a 2003 from St.Urbans-Hof – then a couple of new reds: 2002 William Fevre, Chablis Bougros Pale golden. The nose is a pungent mix of faint shoreline notes and heavy, lime-inflected fruit. Super minerality and intensity coupled to really good length. This seems much tighter than the last bottles – must be time to think about laying down for the future. An impressive bottle still. Rebuy – Yes 2004 Mugneret-Gibourg, Echezeaux Medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose shouts red berries, starting in a very soft, powdery red fruit way. Time adds faint cedar and a kind [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Maybe (2006), Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on December 21, 2006
There are a number of La Romanées, and all have a good reputation. This one hides it’s light under a bushel as it’s a monopole of a relatively little-known producer – but take it from me, the quality is right up there with that of many better-known producers. The vineyard itself is at the ‘end’ of the same hillside that starts with the Clos St.Jacques if you walk with your back to the village of Gevrey. The last thing after La Romanée and Les Veroilles (which La Romanée sits above, and is also a monopole of the same producer) is a small strip of ‘village’ vines called La Bossière, then it’s only trees! 2003 Domaine des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er La Romanée At first glance and [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on December 8, 2006
2002 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Taillepieds (From magnum) Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts in a very mineral way with hints of cedar eventually giving way to red berries and a slow build-up of coffee. The concentrated palate bursts with explosive red fruits and plenty of grainy tannin – but there’s no hint of astringency – the acidity pulling you into a long finish that has a rather darker fruit complexion. Very accomplished and very tasty. Rebuy – yes
Posted in Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on December 5, 2006
Two excellent 2004′s… 2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles VignesDeep cherry-red colour. Slight reduction can’t hide earthy, creamy blackberry and blackcurrant aspects on the nose. The palate is ripe and again very black-fruity – brambly – and with helpful acidity moves seamlessly through slightly grainy tannin to a black finish edged with cream – maybe a hint of coconut too. Rebuy – Yes 2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.JacquesDeeper colour than the villages – edged with purple. The nose is much tighter and less giving, but earthier. The palate is denser and smoother – executive beefcake here. Perfect acidity and a very impressive length. Just like the villages, this wine is mainly about a black fruit profile with fine dry tannin that is completely covered [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on December 4, 2006
2004 Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Maltroie Medium-pale yellow. The nose starts deep with plenty of fresh bread and sweet pear, slowly tightens and becomes higher toned. The palate is fat and full – almost grand cru ‘oily’ – with super acidity, and penetrating intensity that bursts with lime/citrus fruit. Considerable yet understated length that shows just a hint of cream. In one word; excellent. Rebuy – Yes
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on December 3, 2006
I’ve wanted to open this mixed case for a while… 2003 Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La ColombièreMedium-plus cherry-red colour. Deep red, sweet cherry mixed with sweet vanilla oak – the fruit is nicely delineated – provided you keep the temperature below 20°C. Full flavour, perfectly presented with a strong vanilla infused finish – very high quality villages but very, very 2003. Rebuy – Yes
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on December 1, 2006
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Aloxe-Corton Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts very red, ripe and forward, slowly becoming more interesting – coffee and cinnamon edged. Fresh and sweet, the wine expands in the mouth – nicely lingering flavours. The tannin is very well covered. A very successful and super value wine – heartily recommended. Rebuy – yes
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on November 30, 2006
These producers have invested in a very nice new ‘livery’ for their 2004′s – much more elegant than their niaive predecessors. 2004 F & D Clair, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents de ChienMedium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and a nice flow into the good finish. Again there’s a slightly savoury element to the palate too. Plenty of flesh here, rather than the taught, haughty aspect of many in 2004. Easy and tasty drinking – very good value at it’s pre-arrival price. Rebuy – Yes
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on November 29, 2006
Just to keep you on your toes, I though I should try and slip through another Pommard. Very good it was too! 2003 Louis Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Croix NoiresMedium-plus cherry-red. The nose is wide, eventually high-toned, complex and interesting – provided you keep it cool, otherwise it (like many 2003′s) becomes quite diffuse. Very well textured – there’s a lot of tannin, but it’s very well done, and very well covered. There was obviously plenty of oak at release, but there has been a very quick take-up and this is rather well made and impressive – a modern vernacular for sure, but very well done. Impressive juice! Rebuy – Yes Seems ‘the pour’ is still in Burgundy – this time enjoying ‘lunch‘
Posted in Degustation, Other Sites, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on November 24, 2006
Two wines – both from Marc Morey. A 2001 that started very subdued and not so interesting, but ended up rather nice – however, I shall start with a worrying ‘turkey’: 2002 Marc Morey, Chassagne 1er MorgeotMedium-plus golden – certainly a worrying colour for one so young. The nose confirms quite a high level of oxidation. For me (with a significant dislike of oxidation) this was barely drinkable. If you have this wine check it now – urgently! Rebuy – No A much better wine (without doubt) follows, but given the above I wouldn’t buy any, even though (based on the bottle) I say “rebuy – yes“! In-fact I’ve had quite a bit of bad luck from this producer in the last 6 weeks – [....]
Posted in Degustation, p.ox, Rebuy - No (2006), Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on November 23, 2006
[Pommard-free posting!] Here in two bottles you can see the two faces of the 2004 vintage in the Côte de Nuits. It’s a rather extreme difference given that the bottles come from the same cellar, and slightly disappointng given that I still have 5 of each in my cellar, but I’m in no rush and perhaps there be some slow improvement! 2004 M & P Rion, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Argillières Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose has a pure and bright red-fruit core but has a rather green-pea malolactic style edge – though of quite some depth. The palate has medium depth, good tart acidity and a creamy, deep oaky, though with a rather dry tannic depth – but seems to need an extra dose [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - No (2006), Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
By billn on November 22, 2006
Okay, okay! It’s the last pommard for a few days – though I might try and sneak another past you next week 1995 Pousse d’Or, Pommard 1er Les JarollièresMedium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. Bright, ripe red fruit – baked tarts – depth but limited width, the aromas are very persistent. Interesting, concentrated and ripe – there’s some complexity, but the fruit is quite dense, almost monolithic at the core. The length is very good and this is one very smooth wine. It needs plenty of time for complexity, but otherwise this is much more accomplished than the Rugiens. Rebuy – Yes There was a nice piece in ‘the pour’ yesterday, but I guarantee that photo was not taken this week !
Posted in Degustation, Other Sites, Rebuy - Yes (2006) |
