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Rebuy – No (2010)

de poxing the cellar…

After the oxidised Roulot bourgogne yet another (fotunately my last) p.oxed Bouchard Père 2002 Meursault Perrières yesterday. I though the case was already finished until I found this singleton, I must have been saving it for a happy day in the future…. The replacement was a Françoise et Denis Clair St.Aubin 1er Dents du Chien – a decent bottle (note to follow) – and also a decent bottle of Castagnier 1996 Bonnes-Mares. Finally some success!

2001 château puligny-montrachet folatières

2001 château puligny-montrachet folatières

As mentioned yesterday, this was the ‘stand-in’ for the oxidised Roulot, and if anything was even deeper coloured! 2001 Château de Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières A rather deep, initially worrysome colour. Fortunately the nose betrays nothing unmentionable though it’s a little heavy, indeed ponderous. In the mouth it’s wide, a little fat and certainly has lots of mid-palate flavour. There is just about enough acidity for balance. The fruit starts sweet but the finish is a little more sour. The finish has a decent length. Whilst this was a beauty when younger, if I had more in the cellar I’d be drinking them all this year. Rebuy – No

tollot-beaut 2004 savigny 1er champ-chevrey

tollot-beaut 2004 savigny 1er champ-chevrey

Always a favourite cuvée of mine, but that’s not quite enough to overcome the vintage imperfection – not yet anyway. 2004 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champ-Chevery Medium colour. A clear, if not stomach churning, vintage character, below is a deep, dark and slightly sweet fruit base. The combination of acidity and faintly astringent tannin have a not too mouth-puckering affect, and the texture is quite interesting. The fruit has just enough sweetness to deliver a level of balance. Rebuy – No

lambrays 2004 morey st.denis les loups

lambrays 2004 morey st.denis les loups

My first 2004 for a while – I have another to try but I think that this will be a short campaign. 2004 Lambrays, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Loups Medium colour. The nose is heavy with the volatile 2004 taint, below is an interesting coffee edge though I can’t quite get to the fruit. In the mouth this has sweet fruit, nicely soft texture with depth and a subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate that lingers through the finish. As usual when I experience the 04 character the acidity seems a little elevated. If you’re not sensitive, then this would be a very tasty wine just now. Rebuy – No

1999 morey-blanc meursault (yuk!)

1999 morey-blanc meursault (yuk!)

1999 Morey-Blanc, Meursault Inspecting the half-bottle, there’s some very fine sediment at the base and the wine is not perfectly bright. Under the capsule it is completely black, it looks like you could plant potatoes! The cork comes out and has pink and blue lines down it, the dark coloured wine is – quite obviously – oxidised! Not to an undrinkable level, but not far away. The nose has a little ginger mixed in with the oxidised aromas. In the mouth it seems clean and fresh. The acidity seems a little separate from the rest of the wine, but it is quite fine, but it’s oxidised… Rebuy – No

white wines with a red nose…

white wines with a red nose…

Impressed with my dexterity in Photoshop? Actually it is just a moody (blurred!) image from my phone… Only a few days after a day-trip to Mürren we find ourselves in Klosters – well it is the season! Mainly blue sky, but getting a little warm with sticky snow by lunchtime – good for delivering the characteristic red nose though! The long-legged redhead went to ‘doggy-daycare’ with 12-13 other daytime-abandoned dogs, delivering the perfect evening example of ‘dog-tired’. A couple of evening wines – both 2003 whites – might be of interest for you. First up was the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Corton-Charlemagne which delivered an even better performance than this last bottle – whilst not ‘fresh’, I certainly wasn’t longing for more acidity. To follow, came [....]

côtes + antonin guyon 2000 corton-charlemagne

côtes + antonin guyon 2000 corton-charlemagne

Friday was a day in the Côtes – and pretty cold it was too! White (mainly) fluffy stuff was hitting the car and ground for 99% of the journey to Beaune, but 5km from the Beaune exit and the snow was gone – unfortunately rain prevailed – still I wasn’t going to be walking the dog was I? I managed a mere 3 visits during the day – and whilst the wines did their best to cheer people up, the mood was mainly sombre; A number of producers expect/hope to ‘sit-out’ the economic malaise during 2010 and see the 2009 vintage as their saviour. Time will tell… The normal antidote to any malaise is to spend a little time with Bernard Repolt of Maison Remoissenet, [....]

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