FEED | SEARCH://
               Why Big Red Diary?

Rebuy – Maybe (2010)

1986 henri rebourseau mazis-chambertin + frank schoonmaker

1986 henri rebourseau mazis-chambertin + frank schoonmaker

Hardly a star performer and for years, this case of half bottles from auction could have been a monumental faux pas. Yet bottle number one was quite tasty – if not something to get carried away about. Interesting that the latest labels of the domaine have defected to the ‘Mazy’ spelling camp… 1986 Henri Rebourseau, Mazis-Chambertin Medium mahogany red. The nose has a hint of leaf but also the warm, slightly sweet aromas of age – it seems quite clean. Still some astringency to what was probably quite under-ripe tannin in its youth and a hesitant sweetness to the fruit – though I have the impression it didn’t give up much sweetness for a lot of years. Grand Cru? Hard to tell, I’ll just say [....]

1989 louis latour echézeaux

1989 louis latour echézeaux

1989 Louis Latour, Echézeaux The bottle is a heavy one – statement bottles are not just the current bling. The capsule spins and the cork comes out in almost 3 pieces – fortunately none into the bottle. On pouring there’s quite a mahogany caste to this wine, but it looks to retain a nice core of of clear red colour in the glass. The nose starts quite understatedly, a little sweet musk, low-level turned leaves – perhaps there’s something to be said for flash pasteurisation in killing the brett. Slightly thick texture, the acidity starts with a slighly harsh edge but I’m impressed by the burst of energy and flavour in the mid-palate. If I’m honest the acidity adds a touch of austerity rather than [....]

l’arlot 1999 nuits 1er clos des fôrets st.georges

l’arlot 1999 nuits 1er clos des fôrets st.georges

1999 l’Arlot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Fôrets St.Georges The cork shows sign of some seepage. Medium-plus and quite young in colour. The nose is right from l’Arlot’s more gothic implementation of stems – it’s a bit harsh and imposing, not quite what I’d call perfume – there’s also a strong mineral element that veers towards, without ever quite matching, the vintage character of 2004. Aromatically it’s a mixed bag then. In the mouth it’s intense, brooding and shows very good acidity. The tannin only comes a little to the fore in the mid-palate and onwards. It’s also quite long finishing. There’s a little cohesion missing though the individual parts seem good – I don’t think I caught it on a good day…. Rebuy – [....]

bruno clair 1998 marsannay fat heads!

bruno clair 1998 marsannay fat heads!

For the 6 or 7 years I’ve been drinking this, it’s been super – this half bottle is not quite to the previous standard – on a down-slope? I suppose I will have to re-check – also the Longerois too. 1998 Bruno Clair, Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes Half bottle, plenty of dark sediment adheres to the inside of the bottle. The colour is taking on a slightly browner caste at the rim, relatively young and red it remains at the core. Hmm, the nose let’s us down, slight beefy aromas that hint to brett and a hint of VA too – just this bottle? Wait long enough and a sweet red cherry aroma starts to poke through, but it remains slightly veiled. In the mouth [....]

two blind dinner wines…

1994 Chandon de Briailles, Corton (Blanc) Rather deeply coloured, but a sniff shows that there is no overt oxidation. The nose has impact and power and reminds me very much of (a previously drunk) 83 Giroud Corton-Charlemagne, there is power and impact and some melting cream and lanolin in the background – I leave my guessing there! On the palate there is considerable power and quite some ripeness though it’s well-enough balanced (I think the 83 was much more mineral – but hey, it might turn out to be from Australia!). Very good complexity as it moves into the finish. Whilst not begging me to take a second (third!) pour – there are others to taste – this is rather good. Rebuy – Maybe 1998 [....]

1997 armand rousseau clos de la roche

1997 armand rousseau clos de la roche

One of my favourite 97s is Rousseau’s Clos des Ruchottes grand cru, a wine that could come from any good vintage and showing none of the potential pifalls of this one. How good is the Clos de la Roche? 1997 Armand Rousseau, Clos de la Roche Medium, medium-plus colour. From top to bottom this nose is impresses with quality dark red fruit, there is the faintest edge of something a bit looser – caramel and redcurrant – but overall this is super. In the mouth there is a silky density that drives rather too fast into the finish. Swirl it around over your tongue for longer and then the intensity builds, but with it comes some slightly bitter tannin. The finish holds much longer now [....]

michel lafarge 1997 volnay 1er

michel lafarge 1997 volnay 1er

What a wine; 3 days, three different results. Drunk over three nights, whilst over-nighting in the refigerator. 1997 Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Cru Day 1. Medium rusty-red colour. Despite a certain 1997 ripeness to the fruit aromas, there is something of a cool edge and plenty of herbal notes – overall it’s ruff and gruff – not a lacy picture of Volnay. The leading edge is the acidity, though behind it the tannin is quite fine. The first flavours have a slight oxidised impression, but the best part of the wine is its extra dimension of very nice mid-palate flavour. Overall this wine lacks a lot of charm, and some aspects give me concern for further cellaring – still, this was my last. Rebuy – [....]

2007 cornu ladoix 1er le bois roussot

2007 cornu ladoix 1er le bois roussot

2007 Cornu, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot Medium colour. The nose has a little oaky vanilla and a mineral infused but faint red fruit. Nice soft texture backed by an oak-spiced red fruit. There’s width and complexity in the mid-plate, but the density could be better considering that this is a 1er cru. Day two and the oak is much less prominent, though the acidity is less soft. Quite nice overall – for now, decant for an hour and drink on day one. Rebuy – Maybe

2006 jean tardy fixin la place

2006 jean tardy fixin la place

2006 Jean Tardy, Fixin La Place Medium colour. High tones, slightly volatile, a hint of leaf and beef broth, eventually a blue-skinned fruit comes through – actually, nicer than the description may sound. Also a high-toned fruit impression in the mouth. There is a little fat but it quickly falls to the background as the slightly astringent tannin covers it. Good acidity and medium length, nice flavours. Not much density. The initial slight volatility makes me think to drink young, but the tannin needs one or two years to melt a little. Day two this seemed better. Despite the astringency, this is far from a traditional ‘rustic’ Fixin. It’s well made yet quite expensive for a ‘villages’, or at least one that could offer a [....]

1999 remoriquet vosne 1er aux dessus du malconsorts

1999 Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux dessus du Malconsorts Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose slowly opens over about 25 minutes, hints of spice, warm dark fruit and a slightly strange mineral/coal note. Over the tongue, it’s balanced and quite intense, some grain still from the tannin, but that strange aroma is also their as a flavour too. Previous bottles were fine so perhaps this strange flavour is a one-off – it was anyway more of a background note on day two. Rebuy – Maybe

2007 denis bachelet côte de nuits villages

2007 denis bachelet côte de nuits villages

2007 Denis Bachelet, Côte de Nuits Villages Medium colour. The nose starts a little ‘thin’, but quickly fills out with a mix of red and blue shaded fruit and there’s a width of higher tones, no bass-notes though. A balanced and slightly floral impression with an impressive width, though like the nose there’s a limited depth for the life of this bottle. The fruit impression does build a lovely red, cream inflected note. This becomes very tasty indeed. A pretty wine that was once a great value cuvée – currently it’s just pretty… Rebuy – Maybe

Page 2 of 212