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Degustation

bourée 1972 gevrey villages

bourée 1972 gevrey villages

Bottle number two from this stash; the first was so impossibly balsamic that I couldn’t even finish a glass. 1972 Pierre Bourée, Gevery-Chambertin This one has about 7cm of ullage and a cork that crumbles – c’est la vie… Here is also some balsamic aroma but it’s just a trace, there’s a little beef broth too – neither are my favourite. Slowly both of those components fade to reveal a wine of clarity, silky intensity and a lovely extra creamy dimension of flavour in the mid-palate and into the bright finish. There’s a result! The fruit aromas are of alcohol macerated cherries and oranges. I started to make a coffee in the first few minutes this was opened – I never did finish making it! [....]

jf mugnier nuits 2006 1er clos de la maréchale

jf mugnier nuits 2006 1er clos de la maréchale

Another 2006? Well it seems perfect to compare a Pommard with a Nuits – in reality less-so in this case; a Nuits 1er made by Fédéric Mugnier in the Chambolle style – maybe it’s his yeasts! I also remember the Nuits / Vosne area to be the peak of 2006s so I’d anyway expect a little more from an 06 Nuits versus an 06 Pommard. This may not be a great comparison, but it’s a great bottle! 2006 JF Mugnier, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de la Maréchale Medium-plus colour once more. Here the nose is really about pinot (oops – Nuits! – well, maybe…) with a top to bottom elegance, plenty of floral, violet, references too. In the mouth this has extra sweetness and also [....]

xavier monnot 2006 pommard les vignots

xavier monnot 2006 pommard les vignots

2006 Xavier Monnot, Pommard Les Vignots Medium-plus colour, still with purple highlights. The nose is reasonably forward but a bit burly and bulky with hints of cola, only after the bottle has been opened a couple of hours do you start to get some clear, clean and quite pretty fruit notes but it’s only from the last drops in the glass. Like the nose, this a broad-shouldered wine and it wears it’s tannin without a hint of reserve – but the tannin is ripe and not too grippy. There’s a nice breath of fresh acidity and a reasonable length, but I’m missing some excitement – not sure if it’s this wine or also a bit of 2006 thing – will have to check on some. [....]

pascal marchand 2007 morey 1er clos des ormes

pascal marchand 2007 morey 1er clos des ormes

Having finally got around to picking up my 6-pack of the redoubtable 2008 Corton I noticed that they have a little wine-sales boutique chez Marchand. I really don’t know who will find it (going through the courtyard and in through the closed door) but this was a very well priced bottle. 2007 Pascal Marchand, Morey St.Denis 1er Clos des Ormes Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite interesting; clearly a few stems that are partially obscuring violet flowers but the stems are far from gothic plus, if you swirl, you get a great punch of floral aromas. In the mouth there’s decent weight that despite being a little light on acidity never seems overly heavy. There is sweetness from the fruit, a little more than [....]

duchet 1982 corton-charlemagne

1982 Duchet, Corton-Charlemagne Deep golden hue. The nose started as an old (but correct) white does; interesting, a little diffuse but nuts an d a faint impression there may be some oxidation. In minutes it comes together, delivers more focus and adds a little caramel, some struck-match too. In the mouth, this is less sweet than the nose suggests – you even have the impression that there is a hint of tannic astringency. Quite long flavours and even a little more flavour development in the mid-palate. Certainly this is interesting and even a little rewarding but it will never be cosseting, nor ever was (probably) ‘great’. Rebuy – No chance

le moine versus de croix

No, I know that wine is not a competition, but with chance to compare two bones what’s a dog to do? 2007 Lucien Le Moine, Beaune 1er Les Avaux The nose starts as pure oak but needs only a handful of minutes to start coming together in the glass, leaving a prominent but quite nice spicy dimension to the red fruit that has now come into frame. Here is an excellent depth of fruit flavour and a very nice intensity too. Clearly there is the carpenter’s hand here, but this is a wine that works very well indeed. The final twist of tannin gives a bitter-chocolate tang to the finish. Very tasty. Rebuy – Yes (only at a ‘normal’ price, there is no value here) [....]

le moine 2008 meursault perrieres and M&M 2009 pulignys

le moine 2008 meursault perrieres and M&M 2009 pulignys

The wines of Le Moine seem to have polarised opinion – at least the wines of their first few vintages. Yet I’ve heard many recent reports of their transparency that are at odds with early pronouncements of ‘spoofulated’ wines. I have hardly visited for one simple reason; the wines seem rather expensive. But I can’t just rely on ‘hearsay’ can I? Hence, biting the occasional bullet… On Saturday we started with a Mischief and Mayhem 2009 Puligny 1er les Pucelles and finished with their 2009 Puligny 1er Les Caillerets. It’s not long since I tasted these wines, and frankly I have nothing more to add to these notes, except that the Pucelles was more open. Sandwiched in-between was this wine from Le Moine: 2008 Lucien [....]

camus 1998 chambertin

camus 1998 chambertin

You may remember that I was mildly surprised by how good (or at least not bad) the quality of the Camus wines were: Well as the 2010 En-Primeurs are being rolled out, you might find you can buy this Chambertin for less than some ‘worthy’ producer’s villages Vosne, Chambolle or Gevrey – frankly ridiculous – assuming this Chambertin is any good of-course. It turns out (in absolute terms) to be a very good wine indeed! It would clearly lag behind some other Chambertin, but this wine is indeed redolent of that vineyard, and the latest vintage is yours for only Euros 47 ex cellar. Remind me again of the cost of the Mugnier, Cathiard, Rousseau, Grivot (et al) 2010 villages… 1998 Camus, Chambertin An auction [....]

2007 domaine d’eugénie vosne-romanée 1er aux brûlées

2007 domaine d’eugénie vosne-romanée 1er aux brûlées

Putting aside the fact that this wine costs approaching the double of what yesterday’s Jean Tardy set me back, what price can you put on contentment, or rather lack of contentment? Here is a wine that leaves you contented… 2007 d’Eugénie, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Brûlées Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and padded with a hint of musk, fine spice and a creamy crust to the dark fruit aromas. Soft entry, but it’s a little glycerol cushioning that provides the softness, not a lack of structure or flabby fruit; here is a beautifully delineated wine – for a 2007 – clarity of flavour and clean-lines from the understated cool acidity, and even a good base of minerality. There’s a late arriving bitter twist to [....]

jean tardy 2007 vosne-romanée 1er les chaumes

jean tardy 2007 vosne-romanée 1er les chaumes

Slowly working myself into the new year – this is not such a bad start, but methinks, hardly a wine to search for – that said, Tardy remains attractively priced, or used to be anyway! Tomorrow I’ll go for another 07 Vosne 1er, but one that takes itself far more seriously – let’s see if it is warranted. 2007 Jean Tardy, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes Medium colour. The nose has some herbal elements above an understated but quite complex mix of fruit; cherry, strawberry and eventually a long redcurrant note. There is a hint of spice too, though I’m not sure if it’s from the soil or the barrel. I find a herbal element on the palate too – not quite green, but hinting at [....]

robert arnoux 1997 vosne-romanée 1er les reignots

robert arnoux 1997 vosne-romanée 1er les reignots

1997 Robert Arnoux, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Reignots The nose starts broad and faintly of dark oak – slowly a pungent, dark, coconut cream begins to fill the glass, only very slowly are the granular, spicy notes one expects of Vosne to be found. In the glass this starts with a silky texture and a slightly bright though smooth acidity – which is the main component through the centre of the wine and into it’s finish. As the wine warms in the glass the finish first pads out with some of the dark flavours that match the nose. Over three hours this wine remains steady as a rock; acid led but not too much, with a freshness and stance that belies the vintage. I would say [....]

alain michelot 2009 nuits 1er champs-perdrix

alain michelot 2009 nuits 1er champs-perdrix

Another from Alain Michelot and frankly, just as good as the first! 2009 Alain Michelot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Champs Perdrix The nose is quite different to what I remember of the Chaignots – different vines so a good thing – certainly higher toned though perhaps a little more diffuse because of that. This is quite full, with plenty of tannin – yet the fruit comes through very well indeed – super-engaging personality. I think this excellent. Rebuy – Yes

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