By billn on December 8, 2009
Here’s a relatively unusual occurrence; somebody actually sent me some wine to review! I’m in an awkward place to send wine to – as I found out from my ‘friendly’ customs and excise bill – €40 for 2 ‘free’ bottles – ie more than the cost of buying the bottles! Anyway, I thought you should be aware of this departure from the norm so that you can more easily factor-in any bias that might have occurred due to the unexpected ‘bottle cost’ I really don’t get that far south in Burgundy very often, so first, a short introduction, verbatim from the domaine themselves: Domain Description: Domaine du Chalet Pouilly founded in 1850 is a family business for over 100 years, and produces two 100%-Chardonnay: Pouilly [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on December 6, 2009
Not even the faintest trace of ‘vintage character’. I still don’t drink that many bottles from this producer, but I’ve been very happy with those that do get to meet my corkscrew… 2004 Antonin Guyon, Meursault 1er Charmes Dessus Already a medium golden colour – but that seems to come from the oak. Plenty of sweet toast on opening, slowly becomes more brioche, width and depth aplenty – very accomplished indeed. Tongue-coating, smooth, concentrated and perfectly balanced (invisible) acidity. No real fireworks, but new flavours seep out from your teeth and cheeks; creamy accents and excellent length. This was a relatively expensive bottle, but it is a classic, high-class Meursault in that comfortable, plush, unhurried style that only this village truly delivers. My indecision on [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on December 2, 2009
Visitors at home on Sunday, and given that I already had some bottles ready for opening and two were from an ‘easier’ vintage to taste – 1997 – I went that route. First, Pavolet’s Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Dominodes . Warm, inviting, now starting to develop some chocolate flavours and aromas, no awkward edges. This wine has really entered its early plateau of maturity – it will clearly hold for another 10+ years. Super. To follow, Cathiard’s Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts . This was altogether a different kettle of fish. I’ve had some lovely open and friendly bottles from this case, but this wasn’t one of them. It wasn’t unfriendly, rather it was uncommunicative. Clearly cut from the same vintage cloth as the Pavelot, but tighter [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on November 30, 2009
2007 Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Les Vaillons Pale greeny-yellow. The nose is a faint biscuit with a wider white blossom impression above, and is edged with a just enough citrus bite – just over the hour mark, the traditional salty impression of the sea-shore begins to poke through. Smooth, mineral acidity, slightly savoury impressions and this is really very long for a 1er cru. Genuine (not fruit-driven), great value Chablis, of the wiry and intense variety. Rebuy – Yes
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on November 28, 2009
This wine was gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous on release. I would go as far as to say, that until the 2005 vintage it was easily one of the tastiest villages wines I’ve ever had the good fortune to buy. It wasn’t, however, all plain-sailing for my selection of 2001 Fourriers; my first Petits Vougeots was reductive and sullen – not great – though my recent bottle was a more-than pleasant surprise. Three years ago there was a disappointing Gruenchers that was volatile and not so pleasant – an aberration I thought. Earlier this year an American winemaker and burgundy enthusiast started to publish notes suggesting that his 2001 Fourriers were all turning volatile and needed to be drunk-up. I did of-course have the Gruenchers episode, but [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - No (2009) |
By billn on November 27, 2009
Yesterday evening I opened the first from a 12-pack of this wine, it had two specific attributes that contributed to my purchase of a full case; first it was a decently priced bourgogne from the 05 vintage which I could use as a bellwether to judge maturation of the vintage, but second, and a much sexier reason, it was in pretty 50cl bottles! For years I’ve kept a half-bottle limit to daily wine exploits – of-course gatherings are allowed to surmount that total – but if drinking alone, 50cl seems a still tolerable stretch, and, when drinking in tandem there’s still enough for a decent glass each! I suppose though, I should carefully consider the ramifications of this increased uptake; am I now inevitably on [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on November 25, 2009
My first Clos du Chapitre, bought from the shop of the co-op Cave des Hautes Côtes just south of the Beaune periphique for €26.99. Seigneurs de Bligny is a brand/label of the ‘Caves’. This wine, in theory, is a monopole but there’s no such designation on the label – I asked someone at the ‘Caves’ and they said ‘we used to have monopole on the label, but now we’re not allowed!’ I suppose I’ll have to ask around to find out why. The coop is also one of the biggest owners of the next-door 1er cru of Craipillots which they sell for the same price – I thought I’d first try some of the ‘Chapitre’ first before returning… 2006 Seigneurs de Bligny, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Maybe (2009) |
By billn on November 24, 2009
2004 Jadot, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes Medium, medium-pale colour. The nose was largely absent for the first few minutes, only a slightly dense impression. Slowly it opens, eventually delivering wide, high-toned perfume that is clearly edged with the 2004 character – but here it’s character, rather than the oppression it delivers in many other wines. In the mouth this is very Jadot in its fine but narrow impression, born on super acidity – like so many ‘neither young nor mature’ wines from this producer. Fine, without power or intensity, yet there is subtlety and lovely delivery. For my own taste, this wine is as close as I can get to recommending, despite its obvious vintage character. Rebuy – Maybe PS A virtual prize for [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Maybe (2009) |
By billn on November 21, 2009
In-tandem with the CERN large hadron collider (LHC), back again after a few days ‘rest’. Hopefully my annual winter cold is now already behind me and I can continue to polish my technique 2005 Lamblin et Fils, Chablis Vaudésir Medium yellow colour. The nose has hints of roast hazelnut, a little volatility, perhaps marzipan too, later I think it’s more high-toned, citrus fruit than volatility. A little oily texture, but a certain minerality too. Good balance then this wine’s peak selling point – a super burst of dimension in the mid-palate with a length to match. This wine is far from a cheaply priced grand cru, but has a lot going for it; it’s a decent price and it’s very, very tasty – nothing else [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on November 16, 2009
2003 Chateau de Chorey, Chorey-lès-Beaune Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a ripe, macerating acid-red cherry centre. The fruit flavour is a mix of darker cherry – shaded much more to black. Good acidity and with a rasp to the tannin. A very nice dimension of good fruit in the mid-palate and quite okay length. Many of the most successful 03s come from the less vaunted appellations – here’s a perfect example that shows better than Chorey from most other vintages. Rebuy – Yes
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
By billn on November 14, 2009
Pinot noir is a tough mistress, if you want good behaviour, you have to pay – and frankly may still not get the behaviour of your hope! Regional wines, ‘Bourgognes’, made by ‘small’ producers often have the same level of care and attention both in the vineyard and in the cellar that is devoted to the producer’s more expensive bottles. They can be good bottles, occasionally very good if the vintage favours; 2003, 2005 spring easily to mind, I expect 2009s should also be very good. They are never going to show the the energy and dimension of vines from more gifted sites but, if I may, they offer not only a decent amount of varietal character, but also quite some burgundian character. I do [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Maybe (2009), The Market |
By billn on November 10, 2009
[QPR (or the quality versus price paid ratio) is something I consider is often overlooked by the chain of hands that deliver bottles into the market, clearly it's an important factor for the people at the end of that chain of-course. This diary entry started as a note on a single bottle with a great reputation, but a spiralling (upwards) price-point. It was good, but maybe not THAT good - I was forced to pull out a benchmark to compare...] I often wonder who buys this Drouhin wine, particularly 2005 vintage onwards, it really is priced very high (for a Beaune 1er), like a Corton-Charlemange and more than most Puligny 1ers. I should occasionally step outside my fiscal comfort-zone to investigate, so here’s the ridiculously [....]
Posted in Degustation, Rebuy - Yes (2009) |
