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Degustation

2004 rené engel grands-echézeaux

2004 rené engel grands-echézeaux

The back label of this bottle, Philippe Engel’s last vintage, has a poem from William Blake to toast him. 2004 Rene Engel, Grands-Echézeaux Medium ruby-red – I caught myself admiring the late-evening sun as it beautifully reflected through the glass. The nose is not immune to the vintage character; it starts at an encouragingly low level but disappointingly blooms in the glass – maybe to a 6/10 level. Below the mirepoix is a creamy, faintly lactic depth – and depth this wine certainly has. Wide in the mouth, the acidity has a slightly jarring, sharp leading edge – give it an hour of aeration and this mainly but not completely tones down. The texture is very fine and the width and depth are high-class indeed. [....]

david clark 2008 côte de nuits villages…

david clark 2008 côte de nuits villages…

2008 David Clark, Côte de Nuits Villages Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Like many of David’s wines the aromas have a dark undertow that has a hint of reduction at its core but there a musky padding to it that makes it quite compelling. Cool, this has just enough padding to cover the acidity – as it warms in the glass the balance is more generous. Very good width to not especially deep fruit, but there’s a hint of creaminess to add to the crunchy dark fruit and a lovely length. I like this very much, and whilst I might prefer to drink it before the fruit fades and the acidity becomes pronounced, it might still be interesting to save a bottle or two. Very nice indeed. [....]

nicolas potel 2002 vosne 1er aux malconsorts

nicolas potel 2002 vosne 1er aux malconsorts

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Malconsorts Medium colour. This has limited aromatic width, but what depth! There’s a lot of Vosne about the nose; spice, ginger and warmer fruit at the base. In the mouth this has something in common with the nose – not really a grand cru impact, but absolutely a grand cru complexity, mid-palate dimension and finish – the acidity focusing and extending the length. This is seriously good and much more open than I had right to expect from a 2002. Lovely wine. Rebuy – Yes

nicolas potel 2006 chambolle 1er les fuées

nicolas potel 2006 chambolle 1er les fuées

2006 Nicolas Potel, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées Medium-plus colour. The nose has depth and almost texture; sometimes when you have brett there’s a texture impression, and I have it here, but it seems clean enough. The fruit is dark and occasionally gives flashes of brilliance. It’s fresh and intense, keep it in your mouth and it becomes even more intense as the acidity penetrates your tongue. The tannin really only shows itself – and mildly – from the mid-palate into the finish and as a slightly bitter but flavour adhering additive – hmm, licorice I think. Actually there is more flavour in the finish than you get at the start – it really builds and builds. Overall – full-packed, hinting to rustic but full of [....]

a et r olivier 2008 bourgogne chardonnay

2008 A&R Olivier, Bourgogne Chardonnay Using a ‘Diam’ seal. Medium yellow. The nose has the faintest creamyness which hints to brioche and sherbet, but majors on sweet green-yellow fruit. There is some fat and sweetness but also a stonyness at the core. Well balanced with medium length. This is very good indeed, it doesn’t topple my benchmark 08 bourgogne, but then this is a about 25% cheaper! Rebuy – Yes

mugnier 1994 musigny

mugnier 1994 musigny

I’d heard that this was on its last legs. So rather than let it fester in the cellar, I hoped that maybe there was a chance of a last ‘hurrah’ but it seems reports of this wine’s death have been exaggerated! 1994 JF Mugnier, Musigny Well the cork is in great shape; long, flexible and not a hint of seepage. Medium garnet red. The nose is a little dense – there’s depth certainly, but it’s a little cooked and monolithic – not really the elegance or complexity of Musigny to start with, but slowly a more penetrating and pure red fruit nose comes centre-stage – after 2 hours it’s quite engaging. There is plenty of balance, understated slightly astringent tannin and a finishing note that [....]

l&a lignier 2007 morey st.denis vieilles vignes…

2007 L&A Lignier, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes Medium, medium-plus colour. Right from the start there are high, almost floral tones leaking from the glass – below is a redder fruit note. There’s plenty of acidity here but it’s suddenly consumed by a width of extract, slightly rustic finishing tannin and some creamy vanilla oak. The finish has that vanilla too and a slightly greeny/herbal element. Interesting, engaging almost but I’d personally be looking for a hint more composure if I was going to go long on this wine, that said, this was the perfect Burgundian food match – with Lasagna! Rebuy – Maybe

olivier 2008 santenay 1er beaurepaire

olivier 2008 santenay 1er beaurepaire

Well the last one was really good – so what’s to lose in trying again? Another bit of humour on the top of the cork – I’m definitely warming to this producer. I think I need to try their bourgognes – that’s usually the acid-test! 2008 A&R Olivier, Santenay 1er Beaurepaire Medium-plus colour. The nose starts almost too forward but slowly settles into a fine and deep expression of red and black fruits and something that almost touches on aniseed. Concentrated and certainly intense this has more padding than the villages Santenay so never hints at anything mouth-puckering. The texture is very good indeed. This premier cru essentially delivering more weight without any penalty in terms of fineness or focus. Really very accomplished. Rebuy – [....]

antoine et rachel olivier 2008 santenay ‘les temps de c(e)rises’

antoine et rachel olivier 2008 santenay ‘les temps de c(e)rises’

A slight name-change since I last tasted a bottle from this domaine, but the quality is just as good. Maybe I should pay a visit. Anyway I like the sense of humour for the cuvée name! 2008 A&R Olivier, Santenay ‘Les Temps de C(e)rises’ Medium-plus, bright cherry red colour. The soft red fruit has width and impressive depth, a faint musty/stalky element to but it’s more complexity than a negative – it is anyway gone after 30 minutes of air. Full, bright, perhaps a hint petillant to start – I’ll let it settle for a while. Settle down it does; there is depth, impressive intensity and a clarity to the fruit that you don’t always find with Santenay. The acidity is just about covered, helped [....]

2000 clos des lambrays

2000 clos des lambrays

A tasting recollection – drunk over dinner with friends on Saturday. 2000 Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays Medium, medium-pale colour. A little warmth of alcohol in the nostrils but chocolate, good stems and clean undergrowth too – it was very pretty. In the mouth there is sweetness, good balancing acidity and a tannin that just occasionally shows itself in the quite long finish. Dry stuff that description – often the problem with recollections – it doesn’t tell you that everyone around the table was oohing and ahing and saying the same word – ‘lovely’. Showing very well now but with the balance to last and last… Rebuy – Yes

2007 chambolle les bussières – l&a lignier

2007 chambolle les bussières – l&a lignier

I typed the last few sentences of the summer report while sipping on this. There’s no slacking here! 2007 L&A Lignier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose doesn’t have much width, but from top to bottom there’s plenty of depth with high floral tones and deeper dark red/black cherry in the basement, slowly a creamy width starts to fill out the nose. Silky texture, the flesh of the fruit is successfully hiding much of the acidity, then comes a really nice cream-edged fruit – this is very good. I’d drink it sooner or very much later, in-between I suspect the acidity might dominate for a few years. Enjoyed a lot today… Rebuy – Yes

fourrier 2004 chambolle-musigny

fourrier 2004 chambolle-musigny

2004 Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes Medium-plus colour. The nose shows herbal hints of mint and a faint cedar, but it’s hard to say if it’s part of the the 04 character, whatever, it’s on a very low level, overall a liitle floral and not too dense, eventually it delivers a nice acid cherry aroma. Fresh, with just a little astringency to the tannin. There is just enough sweetness to carry what would otherwise be mouth-puckering acidity. Not quite as clunky as the Clos St.Jacques currently shows and the good fruit flavour comes through well in the finish. Almost good. Rebuy – Maybe

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