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Degustation

naudin-ferrand 05 bourgogne hautes côtes de beaune

naudin-ferrand 05 bourgogne hautes côtes de beaune

2005 Henri Naudin-Ferrand, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune The label says ‘Orchis Mascula’ – not sure if that’s just a bit of decoration, or the name of the cuvée. Dark, slightly spicy aromas, hints of sweet smoke – almost certainly some stems – approaching a floral perfume. A nice width of flavour, then the acidity comes to the fore – but no problem – a hint of tannin too as you head into the finish. An hour later and it’s rounder, better balanced and quite tasty with a clear strawberry flavour. Good wine – a second bottle in the cellar should be quite interesting with a few more years… Rebuy – Maybe And not corked!!!

bruno and biothythms…

bruno and biothythms…

Maybe it’s my biorhythms – I don’t know, but this is the third bottle out of the last four I’ve opened that is irredeemably corked – triple-ouch!!!

1992 lafon monthélie 1er duresses

1992 lafon monthélie 1er duresses

I’ve been lucky enough to both drink and taste a reasonable amount of Comte Lafon’s wines, but I’m ashamed to say that I’d none in my cellar before I bought this. There’s plenty of white Lafon for sale at auction – no surprise in these times of p.ox – but the reds are much rarer, so it is with some irony that the first of this immaculate looking 6-pack turned out to be lightly corked – grrr, that’s two in a row – but what about the second? 1992 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses Beautiful medium-red colour, no obvious browning or bricking. The nose is highly engaging (this time!); a macerating, baked redcurrant note with just the merest hint of a creamy coating – [....]

fourrier 2003 gevrey combe aux moines

fourrier 2003 gevrey combe aux moines

I really don’t buy Fourrier any more, it’s become just a little too expensive, but 1999-2005 it was on my annual purchase list. With sausage and rosti coming up, it seemed that this 2003 would have been just the job, but (my first for quite some time) it is completely and utterly corked. To quote Patrice Rion: “imagine all that work, spoiled…”

thomas-bassot 1969 chambolle-musigny

thomas-bassot 1969 chambolle-musigny

Drunk at the weekend (the bottle not me!), and like the Remy of yesterday, this was also the second, and last, of two – this time ‘almost’ as good as the first. 1969 Thomas-Bassot, Chambolle-Musigny The nose needed just a few minutes to deliver its perfume of cushioned dark red fruit – perhaps not as ethereal as the first bottle, but lovely none-the-less. Once more a very clean and tasty wine delivering volume, dimension and still a little tannin. Very nice length, that’s still dominated by the fruit. What a lovely, elegant yet still robust wine. Rebuy – Yes

louis remy 1985 clos de la roche

louis remy 1985 clos de la roche

My second, and last, bottle of this – a similar performance I think. 1985 Louis Remy, Clos de la Roche Ten minutes are needed for the nose to open, but when it does… Stunning, sweet-inflected red blood, faint smoke and precise layers of fruit – glorious stuff. The palate is very fine, showing ripe fruit and nice acidity – just a little minerality too. I still expect more oomph from a Grand Cru – the intensity and concentration is more that of a villages – churlish to complain (perhaps) as this is both complex and compelling. Just beautiful wine. This time around, none was left to oxidise overnight! Rebuy – Yes

99 thomas-moillard romanée saint vivant

99 thomas-moillard romanée saint vivant

1999 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée Saint-Vivant The colour’s quite dark. Aromatically this is rather monolithic for quite some hours – only on day two do you have more of a Vosne impression, but there is still a solid core of dark, almost roast, licorice-laced fruit. There’s good acidity and balance – just a little lithe in shape and it’s also sneakily, mouth-wateringly long. Whilst it’s not very tannic, there’s the clear impression that everything that could have been extracted, was extracted. Drinkable but despite that, a mile away from drinking ‘nicely’. Wait at least 10 years… Rebuy – Maybe

tough weekend at home…

tough weekend at home…

Well, what else are you supposed to do when it rains? Maybe a note or two over the next days! In the meantime to give your mouse something to do, try Lettie Teague‘s view of 2010 blanc.

gilles bouton 2010 st.aubin les champlots

Just for a change, a red St.Aubin. 2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Les Champlots Medium cherry red. Some clean, high-toned and glossy red cherry fruit but overall a bit tight. Fresh, with acid-borne intensity. This wine has both energy and a lovely crunchy fruit. Lovely as it is, and as well priced as it is, I’d be getting my enjoyment this year before whatever padding the fruit may currently be providing fades… Rebuy – Yes, but be quick!

gilles bouton 2010 st.aubin en remilly

2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er En Remilly Pale colour. Wide, slightly waxy impression, some faint herbs and with a little yellow fruit too. Fresh, nicely intense with just a hint of mouth-puckering acidity – but not overly so. The flavour of greeen-skinned fruits comes through in mouth-watering fashion. Racy and fun – lovely stuff. Rebuy – Yes

gilles bouton 2010 st.aubin le chatenière

2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Le Chatenière Pale colour. A hint of oak toast and clean high-toned aromas, slowly it has more of a brioche impression before disappearing completely. Leaner than the Dents du Chien, with a linear minerality – quite some intensity too – a burst of flavour in the mid-palate with a new, faintly sweet herbal note. Understated, lingering finish that’s couched with a subtle sweetness. Great value wine without a doubt. Rebuy – Yes

dublère 2007 savigny peuillets blanc

dublère 2007 savigny peuillets blanc

2007 Dublère, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets Medium lemon-yellow. Wide, inviting, clean citrus fruit and flower notes. After the M&M 06 Puligny, this is much more mineral and lithe – as much the vintage as the vines. Lovely acidity is smoothly rendered and underpinning the intensity and leaving a mouth-watering finish. Excellent Rebuy – Yes

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