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Degustation

tollot-beaut 2008 savigny 1er les lavières…

tollot-beaut 2008 savigny 1er les lavières…

This is a wine that I (unfortunately) often forget about; but every time I return I am reminded that I should have bought more. 2008 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières After the Bachelet, here is also some oak, but rather than a smothering sweetness, it’s delivered with a spicy element that is more than amply buffered by a growing, crooning floral aromatic – perfect violets. The last drops in the glass offer a beautiful ‘come-hither’ red fruit. In the mouth there is sweetness, but the acidity urges you into the mid-palate where you have the impression that the wines bursts further into life. Long with a mineral end-note. I might buy a magnum or two for rainy day – if I’m not too late! Rebuy [....]

2008 jean-claude bachelet st.aubin 1er derrière la tour

2008 jean-claude bachelet st.aubin 1er derrière la tour

This domaine gets a lot of good press, though from what I’ve seen it’s for their whites – let’s see what a red looks like… 2008 Jean-Claude Bachelet, St.Aubin 1er Derrière la Tour The nose starts with quite a lot of sweet toasty oak, eventually there’s a higher toned sweetness that’s not particularly oak-based. Given time (totally blind) I could be convinced by the aromas that this a white wine, with a Meursault-style gingerbread note in evidence. In the mouth the first impression is of a rather thin wine but there is quite some intensity welling up. Good acidity with a faintly sweet medium finish. In the end this is a very tasty drop, but also a highly stylised drop of wine that talks of [....]

a brace of barthod – 2008 chambolles…

a brace of barthod – 2008 chambolles…

I suppose anniversaries often require a little over-consumption, that being the case we started with Pol Roger’s ’96 Rosé; not exactly pink at this age, but also not with the line of oxidation that our last bottle showed – this was my last one, but a good one. Next, call it an amuse bouche, was a half-bottle of Ghislaine’s 2008 villages before the main course, her Charmes. 2008 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Good colour. The nose starts in a good way and just keeps getting better; adding dimensions of violet flowers and eventually a raspberry and recurrent impression. Energy and acidity in fine balance with a melange of red fruits. Good in the finish too – this is very lovely right now. Rebuy – Yes 2008 [....]

pierre boisson auxey 1er en reugne…

pierre boisson auxey 1er en reugne…

I can safely say, this is my first en Reugne – actually I think it’s my first Pierre Boisson too! I like the label, but the capsule is thin, cheap plastic – real cork lies below but only with a serial number on it – nothing to identify the domaine or the cru. Auxey always has to reach a price-point I suppose… 2008 Pierre Boisson, Auxey-Duresses 1er En Reugne Pale yellow. The nose is high-toned, faintly floral and has a nice energy about it – perhaps a little sherbet but not too much so. In the mouth, acid and intensity are my first thoughts – but it’s a rather invigorating acidity – plenty of energy and fun here. Kept cool, this absolutely the perfect aperitif [....]

l&a lignier 2008 fixin champs vosgers…

2008 L&A Lignier, Fixin Champs Vosgers (blanc) Medium yellow. The nose is faintly sweet with an undertow of flowers and maybe a hint of sulfur. In the mouth this has a lovely bubbling acidity – I remember the 08 being borderline tart – bright and pretty but with a nice sweetness and extra width of flavour in the mid-palate. Lingering on a mouth-watering note. Many Fixins seem to me rather too savoury in their youth and whilst interesting, I wouldn’t be filling my cellar with them. This one avoids that ‘trap’ and begs a top-up to the glass. Yum. Rebuy – Yes

dujac 1995 morey saint denis

dujac 1995 morey saint denis

After the Pousse d’Or failure – I’m glad I persevered with this vintage… 1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis Medium rusty-red. The nose is a blend of stemmy perfume – and at this age it really is perfume – and a higher-toned fresh plum fruit that flirts with a floral dimension; it’s quite lovely and keeps drawing me back for another sniff as the fruit changes to cherry and even recurrant with time. In the mouth it doesn’t quite have that melt-in-the-mouth texture that you get with a perfectly matured wine, but there’s freshness and a structure that remains bright, indeed almost stern. The acidity is just about perfect, being the baseline for a beautifully understated but fine finish. Such a shame that I have only three [....]

a failed pick-me-up…

a failed pick-me-up…

I was looking forward to this – though after much rummaging in the cellar I was surprised it was 1995 – I had in mind it was a ’93. Whatever, I knew it was the last one. Hmm, the cork was a bit pooey – but more rubber than ‘cork’ – I left it in the fridge a while, after-all it was 30°C outside. On my return the colour is good – not a hint of browning – but clearly there’s TCA on the nose, less so on the palate which has some sweetness and no overt tannin. I drank the whole glass, but didn’t take a second.

david clark 2009 bourgogne au pelson…

2009 David Clark, Bourgogne Au Pelson Does my nose deceive me? This smells of stems – not entirely smoky, more the slightly herbaceous version – it’s better if you keep it below 18°C. Very good freshness, intensity and length too but the flavour although there is some sweetness also has a borderline ripeness about it. The finish is very good. Although I don’t find stems ‘criminal’, this wine is far from it’s drinking peak today – based on my experience of other stemmy cuvées (I’m assuming that there really are stems within) this will have a great perfume, but only from 2014… Rebuy – Maybe Note: I checked David’s website, and this wine was actually 100% whole cluster. Just give it time… And bringing you [....]

2008 jc boisset côte de nuits villages le creux de sobron…

2008 jc boisset côte de nuits villages le creux de sobron…

2008 JC Boisset, Côte de Nuits Villages Le Creux de Sobron The name is clearly a mouthful – fortunately the wine is very good mouthful. Ripe but fresh fruit on the nose – quite forward. In the mouth this has plenty of energy and fine acidity which could turn a little mouth puckering in a couple of years, but today it is just joyous. There is a little mid-palate muscle and good intensity too. A line of mouth-watering flavour lingers in the finish. Yum – and an absolute bargain… Rebuy – Yes And for those with an interest in books, I just pre-ordered this one – can’t wait.

joseph voillot 2005 volnay brouillards – not a pommard…

joseph voillot 2005 volnay brouillards – not a pommard…

Andrew Jefford has a far better turn of phrase than pissing in the wind methinks… Not exactly Pommard, but it was the closest thing to hand: 2005 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Brouillards Medium colour. A kind of candied sweetness mixes with red fruit and eventually a beguilling floral aroma – lovely. This wine has thinned-out, plenty of acidity but intensity too and an impression of extract. Still very drinkable but not the gorgeously cushioned drinkability of its first few months in bottle. This remains a great Brouillards. Rebuy – Yes

paul pillot 2008 chassagne 1er clos-st-jean…

paul pillot 2008 chassagne 1er clos-st-jean…

2008 Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean (rouge) Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep with a subtle oak toast and dark berries overlaid with some violet notes. Lovely acidity and with it super mid-palate intensity. The flavours are dark and quite long-lasting with a little bitter-chocolate. Very understated tannin – overall this is a very good wine with decent value, selling at only 2/3rds the price of the white version. Rebuy – Yes

olivier père 2008 santenay coteaux sous la roche…

olivier père 2008 santenay coteaux sous la roche…

This wine had the gpood fortune of following the Potel 09 Chardonnay – it was always going to taste nice by comparison… 2009 Olivier Père et Fils, Santenay Les Coteaux Sous La Roche (blanc) Medium-pale. The nose is quite buscuity/toasty bread with an underlying sweetness. In the mouth there’s lovely acidity and sweetness though to start it seems there’s a bit of a hole in the middle – give it a few minutes and the intensity increases and it comes into a good place. Everybody wanted a top-up from this one! Rebuy – Yes

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