Degustation

Hmm, it seems that time passed too fast for typing… Since that rather lovely 1997 Rion NSG, I opened another ’97 – Bouchard Père’s Le Corton – aromatically as interesting as the Rion, and though it was more concentrated than the Nuits, it was far less generous. Tasty enough, though some way from maturing. Then yesterday was a 2009 Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Blanc) from Edmond Monnot: Full, reasonably rich but with enough acidity to balance – brilliant value but still only ‘maybe’ rebuy. And today? Well it’s a while since I looked at one of these… 2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Village This starts gorgeously wide and even with a bit of more northerly spice, and perhaps there’s a hint of reduction/oak too [....]

2006 JC Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants Not much more than medium colour, but it’s still a relatively young colour. Wide, flighty aromatics with a hint of spice, herb and dark-shaded red fruit – I keep coming back for another sniff – lovely. Less full than last time I opened one of these; it’s becoming a little more muscular and sinewy, very little fat, yet the sweetness of fruit remains an adequate foil to the fine acidity. Lovely growth of flavour in the mid-palate and it clings on really well in the finish – which shows a little raspberry fruit. The texture has a faint hint of astringent ‘drag’ – but faint. I’m enjoying this a lot, and think it may be hard work [....]

Probably my last 05 for a while, but a good one – note that the wax is a little brittle, so extract your cork over the sink or the bin! 2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin 1er Les Arvelets Like most 05s, this is impressively deep coloured. The aroma is deep, relatively dark fruit mixes with faint herbs – eventually there’s a cracking high-toned acid-cherry note. Mouth-filling, with growing intensity – indeed it’s hard to keep it in your mouth – either spit or swallow – I was happy with the latter! There is a strong undertow of well-textured, ripe tannin that underpins the long finishing flavours with a little bitterness – that’s an observation of style, not criticism. Because of this style, this should [....]

At the outset, I would have been one of the first to underline the need to bury these wines in your cellar, and there was much anecdotal evidence (perhaps a hint of urban myth too) of wines that closed up tight. But I have to say that the 05s that have passed my lips this year, have been nothing short of stellar – clearly not mature drinking, but fabulously delicious drinking… 2005 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes Very deep colour – yet transparent – just! What a nose: a depth of wonderfully creamy dark fruit, with a faintly candied aspect that slowly becomes violet flowers. Fine, very ripe tannin. Beautifully balancing acidity is delivered for showcasing the concentration on offer, perhaps still with a hint of [....]

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot Medium-plus colour. The nose has some savoury notes and dried flowers too – it starts mainly in deeper registers – let’s see if it opens out. After an hour there is a little spirit, but also some oak-spiced red fruit. The texture is still velvety, and the acidity is in good shape too – a higher level of balance than the Potel of a few days ago. Nice high-toned fruit in the mid-palate, though, no mistake, this is still a rather masculine wine, tasty though it is. Still a seriously young wine… Rebuy – Yes