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economist wine article…

economist wine article…

I finally got around to reading some of this (June 16th-22nd) issue of The Economist. and was drawn (unsurprisingly) to the ‘Charlemagne‘ article devoted to wine. Great quotes abound – how about: “Wine is different, it has a soul,” says Ferdinand Hoffstetter, who is a big wheel in the grand duchy’s [Luxemburg] ministry of agriculture and viticulture. At dinner, guests may discuss a wine they are drinking. “One does not discuss cauliflowers.” See – it’s not just boring stuff in the Economist

“the ingredients (other than blood and guts)…”

Did you already eat? The ingredients (other than blood and guts): Bertrand Celce is bringing plenty of colour to your desktop…

pezérolles in spain

pezérolles in spain

Time to dust down your Spanish dictionary. Here’s a vertical of de Montille’s Pommard 1er Pezérolles in the very pretty site of Victor Franco.

plans for lunch?

If you are feeling peckish, let me suggest this small gala dinner offering: Dish: Creme brulee of foie gras with Tonga beansWine: 1990 Louis Roederer Cristal Tartare of Kobe beef with Imperial Beluga caviar and Belons oyster1995 Krug Clos du Mesnil Mousseline of pattes rouges crayfish with morel mushroom infusion2000 Corton-Charlemagne, Jean François Coche-Dury Tarte Fine with scallops and black truffle1996 Le Montrachet, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Lobster Osso Bucco1985 Romanee-Conti Ravioli with guinea fowl and burrata cheese in a veal reduction1961 Chateau Palmer Saddle of lamb “Leonel”1959 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Sorbet “Dom Perignon” Supreme of pigeon en croute with cepes mushroom sauce and cipollotti1961 Chateau Haut-Brion Veal cheeks with Perigord truffles1955 Chateau Latour Imperial gingerbread pyramid with caramel and salted butter ice-cream1967 Chateau d’Yquem

turning off the light

turning off the light

wine-journal was a bright shining light in the firmament of online wine-writing; frankly the copy was far better than the regurgitated prose that passes for advertorials in most magazines. Neal Martin’s wit and personality – not to mention independence of thought – shone out for all to see. Serious, comedic, even tragi-comedy. It is right that he is recognised and indeed rewarded for his effort and it is telling that it was Robert Parker himself that hired Neal – kudos, as he says. It’s just a shame that his back-catalogue of works is now withdrawn from the site, our only remaining tool the wayback machine, unless you want to pay uncle Bob of course! Funny thing is, we will probably see more of him now [....]

homeward-bound on airbus linked by boeing

homeward-bound on airbus linked by boeing

This is a rather cool thing – I’m heading back to europe and am writing (and publishing) this at 30,000 feet in a Lufthansa Airbus but with broadband connection by Boeing. Until the end of the year this mid-atlantic high-speed connection is totally free – then it will be discontinued; seems Lufthansa are not impressed: Lufthansa deeply regrets Boeings intention to discontinue the Internet broadband service Connexion by Boeing (CBB). This will not have any immediate consequences on Lufthansa FlyNet users. Boeing has given assurances that it will continue the service until the end of the year. Lufthansa FlyNet is enjoying increasing popularity and has proved to be technically very reliable. The level of customer interest is indicated by figures of up to 40 users [....]

french children ‘need wine class’

Apparently it’s true… Given the glass of Dubeouf 2006 Beaujolais Nouveau I just had, perhaps they should speed up the process!

pommard #18

pommard #18

Just to keep you on your toes, I though I should try and slip through another Pommard. Very good it was too! 2003 Louis Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Croix NoiresMedium-plus cherry-red. The nose is wide, eventually high-toned, complex and interesting – provided you keep it cool, otherwise it (like many 2003′s) becomes quite diffuse. Very well textured – there’s a lot of tannin, but it’s very well done, and very well covered. There was obviously plenty of oak at release, but there has been a very quick take-up and this is rather well made and impressive – a modern vernacular for sure, but very well done. Impressive juice! Rebuy – Yes Seems ‘the pour’ is still in Burgundy – this time enjoying ‘lunch‘

pommard #17

pommard #17

Okay, okay! It’s the last pommard for a few days – though I might try and sneak another past you next week 1995 Pousse d’Or, Pommard 1er Les JarollièresMedium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. Bright, ripe red fruit – baked tarts – depth but limited width, the aromas are very persistent. Interesting, concentrated and ripe – there’s some complexity, but the fruit is quite dense, almost monolithic at the core. The length is very good and this is one very smooth wine. It needs plenty of time for complexity, but otherwise this is much more accomplished than the Rugiens. Rebuy – Yes There was a nice piece in ‘the pour’ yesterday, but I guarantee that photo was not taken this week !

pommard #14

pommard #14

A real star this one… 1996 Lejeune, Pommard 1er Rugiens Medium, medium-plus colour. Sweet, ripe red fruit – almost confiture – not so wide but very lovely depth. Wow – very impressive complextity – explosions of taste on the palate, real concentration followed by a slowly tailing-off diminuendo finish. This might not be the smoothest, most romantic wine in the world but it will nock you off your feet with real personality. Bravo! Rebuy – Yes I also spotted today this great note for a Hospices de Beaune from 1961 – my oldest is ’81 but there’s no rush to drink that last magnum…

post of the year!

My vote for post of the year (well we are 90% through!) comes from wineterroirs this weekend – take a tour through a list of wine additives and their catalogues with Bertrand Celce for a little insight into what might be in your wine. At first it’s a stark and often unpalatable list, but let’s be clear, even referring back to our ‘producers who do nothing’, one in every 10+ cuvées will require some kind of manipulation – we are, after-all, talking about a very natural and somewhat variable process. I personally think that a winemaker (at least ones I buy from) has two duties; to make a wine that reflects its origin, and to make it palatable – the second point tends to be [....]

146th hospices de beaune auction

146th hospices de beaune auction

Christies now have their online info-pack available for the sale of 2006 burgundy in barrel – you can bid direct or maybe join a syndicate to buy. The whites should be good as should the Mazis and Corton reds – the rest will need some careful selection… http://www.christies.com/promos/nov06/5454/overview.asp

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