FEED | SEARCH://
               Why Big Red Diary?

Vintage 2010

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #last(?)

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #last(?)

Jumping ahead of myself but ‘inspired’ by Bill’s recent excellent photos, here’s 3 taken on the morning of taking my sad leave of Morey-St-Denis. Taken over the wall from Arlaud’s entrance for the first 2, and from the wall at the top of the car park for the bar/boulangerie, these were taken about 7.30 a.m. as the sun came up over the eastern horizon. The orange glow infused the walls of the village in a lovely way. Enjoy !

chassagne and a little ‘paulée’

chassagne and a little ‘paulée’

Friday. The last day of (almost) sun in the côtes – it was a little misty, but dry. I can’t ever remember walking through the vines in September in ‘normal’ shoes – the ground was so dry. Lots of work was being done replacing old/dead vines and even a bit of ploughing here and there before the rain that was forecast for the weekend. The pictures that follow are mainly from around and in the Clos St.Jean (1er) in Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s not every autumn that the chardonnay and pinot vines are so well delineated in the vineyard – and yes, the red ones are the pinot! The evening was a mini-paulée of sorts. This week saw the conclusion of the harvest for the home team [....]

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #1

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #1

Got home finally about midday Tuesday UK time having left my Dover Premier Travel Inn around 5 a.m. Arrived there early last evening tres fatigue from the Calais time 4.10 p.m. ferry which I made by dint of getting my foot down more than I’d have liked and no stop for lunch having left Nuits at around 9 a.m. I don’t think I’ve ever enjoyed, or felt I needed, a bath so much in my life !!! Pre my Cote departure and in a dark, rainly, back street Nuits butcher’s I did a double take & saw Etienne Grivot at the counter buying his meat !! Popped into the shop & introduced myself having only met him briefly at London January en primeur tastings before [....]

harvest – 5th october

An update from the home team Chambertin was harvested late on Friday 1st and Charmes-Chambertin on the 2nd October. Those grapes continued along the theme of healthy millerandes, and even a ‘positive selection’ of 10% whole clusters was used for the Charmes. The fermentations have, so far, been really slow. One Volnay cuvée and the Ladoix cuvée have almost finished their fermentations, the others are being roused by some gentle warming of the tanks. The only concern right now is that some of the tannins seem to have an aggressive edge to them – but they are expected to improve as the maceration continues but care will need to be taken with the extractions. Still waiting for pics – no pics, no toilet seat What [....]

harvest – 30th september

I read that the Morey domaines of Dujac and L&A Lignier have completed their harvests today – Jeremy Seysses bemoans the fact that he only ended up with 25hl/ha for his villages Morey, though no quality complaints – actually a little white Monts-Luisants is still to be picked on Friday by Dujac. At the home domaine there were no new grapes, just the last of the Santenay from Wednesday to finish which was triaged in the morning – the grapes are fine at 6°C overnight! The last grapes to be brought in will be Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin and some Hautes-Côtes. Maybe tomorrow or maybe Saturday – let’s see. The first fermentations have started; the grapes from the new contract for villages Volnay were ‘innoculated’ via the [....]

harvest – 29th september

This was a very busy – but dry – day for the home team. Grapes from Maranges, Santenay villages, Vosne-Romanée and finally Corton Clos du Roi. Maranges and Vosne were in great shape (photos later) the Corton Clos du Roi and Santenay needed more triage. The Corton had a similar amount of botrytis to the Ladoix and the grapes could perhaps have been picked a day or two earlier – but we generally hold on because of the tannins. The Santenay needed green and rotten fruit removing. It’s worth noting that maximum triage this year (reds!) is still only in the region of 6-7% the average being much lower; only 05 and 09 have been better in the last 7 vintages. Short but sweet – [....]

harvest – 28th september

(in absentia as I had to come home to do something less manual!) The last thing I did before I left yesterday was to taste through some of the different cuvées. Of-course it’s only fruit juice right now, and with so much sugar the pH of 3.2 means nothing! Still the colours seem to be extracting nicely and the flavours are very clean indeed – interesting that of the two (vinified separately) Volnay villages cuvées, one seemed more powerful, the other to have more complexity. Despite one needing more triage they both seem spotlessly clean – in the end I guess it’s just down to how much you have to throw away! Today was a dry day in the Côtes. The home team brought in [....]

harvest – 27th september

monts-luisants 27 Sept

The previous evening was leftovers again, but this time supplemented with 2004 Puligny and 2002 Fourrier Gevrey Clos St.Jacques. The white had a very obvious 2004 character, the red was elegance personified – no fireworks but understated complexity. Today and it’s raining – not too heavy, but wet all the same. We have no grapes today; the Beaune Avaux and Corton Rognets was advanced and the Gevrey and Vosne were put back to tomorrow. Chambertin won’t be harvested until the end of the week. So in the morning I chatted with a couple of very similar vignerons (well, same village!) David Clark and Laurent Ponsot in Morey. I asked Laurent how his harvest was shaping up and he flashed a big smile and said “what [....]

harvest – 26th september

harvest – 26th september

It’s Sunday, and surprise, surprise, it’s not raining. The previous evening we had a lovely soup (sorry chef it was better with a pinch of salt!) and the quenelles with a lobstery sauce – one of our antipodean colleagues decribed them as ‘French dumplings’ – a great call methinks! To drink was a 2008 Bourgogne Blanc from Domaine Dublère ‘Cuvée Millerandes‘ – very nice, indeed powerful, the acidity not quite seamless in the finish, but this was way above standard bourgogne level. For a bit of fun we tried the ‘cooking wine’ next; a Camille Giroud 1996 Monthélie – actually it was drinkable, blind you might think it smelled Italian as it spent so much time in oak. The last one was André Cathiard 1989 [....]

harvest – 25th september

harvest – 25th september

For info, this year the Vougeraie harvest log is online – help yourself. So yesterday evening was leftovers and two grand crus, both from Camille Giroud; a 2007 Corton-Charlemagne and 2008 Charmes-Chambertin – both very good indeed as somebody might say, actually the Charlemagne could have been fine-plus! I mentioned yesterday the potential this year for a Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits divide, so lets get into that: It hangs on maturity and the weather. Much of the Côte de Beaune will have been harvested (we’re talking reds) by Monday and at decent maturity too. There is some rot, but few of the best sites have been significantly affected – grape quality was rather good, 2006++. Despite also having excellently clean grapes (still) the [....]

harvest – 24th September

harvest – 24th September

So the night before and I open a bottle of Blair Pethel’s Domaine Dublère 2007 Beaune 1er Blanche Fleurs and watched James Bond on TV! The wine is really on-song, even the domestic management is appreciative – though I think a lot of the depth of flavour seems barrel-related (creamy vanilla dimensions), it has great texture, is slightly plush and generally shows lovely balance. Okay, that was yesterday – now I’m in Beaune, and just in time. Typically it started raining at home 3 minutes before I wanted to pack things into the car (…) most of the trip to Burgundy was dry though. Arriving to the car-park at the hotel it started with a little light rain. Five minutes after I got to the [....]

looking like a wet weekend in côtes…

looking like a wet weekend in côtes…

Okay – the first full report will be tomorrow as I interrogate my fellow harvesters and stageurs – but it looks like I will be doing it wearing several layers of (waterproof!) clothing. The forecast for my weekend – how about yours(?)

Page 1 of 212