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billn

la gibryotte 2006 gevrey-chambertin

la gibryotte 2006 gevrey-chambertin

The 2006 Nuits from the other night was so good, I thought I might try another 06. Claude Dugat has quite a following, and prices to match. ‘The kids’ of Claude have a small négoce operation and this label is part of that. Not for a second would I describe this wine as cheap, but it is half the price of Claude’s villages Gevrey-Chambertin – yet it is really excellent! 2006 La Gibryotte, Gevrey-Chambertin Medium, medium-plus colour. The first sniff is lactic, but it hangs around only long enough for that one impression – afterwards there is fresh blue-black fruit and just a hint of pencil-lead-style minerality – aromatically it’s flexing lean but powerful muscles. Wide, fresh and with a baseline of slightly dry but [....]

fwob…

A small update here…

2012 views

From Mark Haisma and Elden Burgundy.

1991 rully – jacqueson’s grésigny

1991 rully – jacqueson’s grésigny

I already know what you’re going to say: “My, my Bill, that’s rather darkly coloured, isn’t it!(?)” And I suppose that would have been expected of twenty year-old white Rully, even before the current oxidative paradigm – yet, there is no oxidation here – the chromophores (or auxochromes) responsible for this colour have nothing to do with the aromas and tastes of Jerez. 1991 H et P Jacqueson, Rully 1er Grésigny Medium, medium-plus golden-yellow. The nose shows some toasted bread and a faintly caramelised lemon. In the mouth there is an impressive intensity of flavour – starting narrow but forging wider and wider. The acidity is rather understated – like an average 2006 – but it comes more to the fore in the mid-palate, emphasising [....]

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

It’s been a while since I opened a 2006, and given that I thought Nuits/Vosne to be the very epicentre of 2006 quality – where better to start(?) 2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Murgers Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and dark-shaded with almost black cherry notes to the fore – let the glass drain and there are beguiling red fruit notes too. Despite being at an ‘awkward’ age, there is still some padding to the texture, and the high-toned dark fruit has a real underpinning of tannin and acidity – currently they have a fine balance, despite the tannin’s texture being just-about the wrong side of velvet – but it’s a lovely package, really lovely. Surprisingly open and giving right now; more [....]

louis chenu 2010 savigny 1er aux clous

2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous Barely medium colour. The nose is lovely: lot’s and lots of red berries, shaded to raspberry, but with an undertow of something faintly earthy and mneral. Surprising intensity here (after the colour – such is Burgundy!) – there is so much flavour here, strawberry/ raspberry fruit (again) underpinned with that earthy mineral note that shows on the nose. Just a first class balance here: faintly padded texture and lots of flavour. At twice the price, this would be something of a bargain! Rebuy – Yes

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

This Meursault had a very smelly cork indeed – had me thinking oxidised, but I won’t say ‘premature’! 1983 Jacques Prieur, Meursault Clos de Mazeray The colour is certainly aged, but mercifully the aroma seems to have little to do with the cork. The aromas start a little murky, then there’s home-made lemonade(!), slowly but surely a decent red berry note comes into focus, underpinned by a leafy note that seemingly adds texture – this just gets better and better. Lithe, slightly lean in stature as the acidity has an element that isn’t completely ripe, but overall – no great problem. There’s decent enough concentration and an (overall) interesting glass of wine – the fruit seems to have just enough sweetness to make me want [....]

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little burly but settles down, softening with time in the glass: fine red fruit and a Volnay-esque perfume – very nice indeed! Lithe, lovely acidity, slowly growing, fresh mid-palate flavours – you will hardly note any tannin – this is really on a much higher level than I had assumed. Lovely wine – for me this is always the ‘value’ (red) cuvée chez Lafon. Rebuy – Yes

in defence of auction houses (?)

The thoughts of Maureen Downey. [Archived]

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute… 2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed [....]

louis jadot 1998 beaune les grèves

1999 not so good? Hmm, Bill – why don’t you try the 1998 and let us know what you think? Well that’s a good idea – thanks – I will! 1998 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Corked to bits! Bugger! Rebuy – No

el bulli wine auction

el bulli wine auction

Probably the closest I could now come to El Bulli. A lot of decent prices for Burgundy (in a three star context), it might be an interesting auction to follow. It seems they liked Le Moine!

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