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billn

domaine maume – alive and well, despite other reports…

domaine maume – alive and well, despite other reports…

When I previously reported on the ‘death of Domaine Maume‘, it was based on two news reports and a subsequent conversation I had with Pascal Marchand in Zürich. The reports had never mentioned Bertrand Maume, and actually he was never a subject of my chat with Pascal either – probably driven by me as I assumed Bertrand was now out of the picture – mea-culpa! I did eventually correct myself once the current situation was confirmed to me by ‘Marchand-Tawse’ – i.e. that Bertrand remains at the domaine and that Pascal is merely delivering the benefit of his long careers in consulting and wine-making – but that correction was rather buried in the comments section of the original post. So what better way to make [....]

the hot topic – mildew

Everyone’s talking about it: Mildew pressure is high this year, especially in Burgundy. Starting in bordeaux. Rhone still ok. All of us in bio need to keep faith !!! — Frederic Engerer (@4Vignes) Juni 26, 2012

a few days in the côtes: sun, rain, mildew, coccinelle and damn volkswagens

a few days in the côtes: sun, rain, mildew, coccinelle and damn volkswagens

I’m typing this during my last few hours in Beaune, whilst in the background the traditional lament of the ‘pipes of pan do Abba’ waft from that Saturday market. I’ve had a nice couple of days tasting at some new addresses, and also some car-related issues while I’ve been here. I’ll give you a laugh about the car later… But, to the vines, and what an incredibly challenging year! What began as an early starting, and very dry year, has morphed into a very wet one – so far – and the potential for an August harvest has long-since evaporated – actually a little breeze and evaporation would figure in most vignerons’ dreams. Unfortunately a lot of the wet weather arrived during flowering so things [....]

louis fournier 1985 morey

louis fournier 1985 morey

After yesterday’s Morey St.Denis from Vasseur I was perhaps feeling a little over-confident(?) when I decided to pull out a 1986 villages Morey from another ‘no-name’ négoce… 1986 Louis Fournier, Morey St.Denis Deep colour, certainly with some browning. On day one this sweet nose smelled of brown sugar and a little meat, day 2 there was more meat but nothing unpleasant – not bad! Like all the 86s I’ve tried, this seems to be a relatively low acid vintage – this is full round and sweet, and I have to say more interesting than many of the grand crus I’ve tasted from the vintage – they all seemed rather ‘vague’. There is just a faint bitter note towards the end of the mid-palate, probably some [....]

1993 georges vasseur morey 1er les monts luisants

1993 georges vasseur morey 1er les monts luisants

This wine turned out to be a bit of an auction ‘catch’. Approaching it’s twentieth birthday and a bit of a rarity for showing the actual Morey vineyard name that far back. Always a danger such ‘no-name’ négoce bottles, though the name ‘Morey’ on the label is often something of a counterbalance! In this case the label is today a sub-brand of Ligeret (Nuits) – but I don’t recall ever seeing their (Ligeret’s) wines… 1993 Georges Vasseur, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Monts Luisants Relatively deep colour. The nose has herbs, dark fruit and a very faint espresso. Supple, lithe and with a lovely intensity that grows in the mid-palate and becomes more and more mouth-watering. The herby, slightly spicy fruit has a masculine demeanour but [....]

michel lafarge 1996 beaune-grèves

michel lafarge 1996 beaune-grèves

I moved or the wine moved but in 10 short minutes we came together… 1996 Lafarge, Beaune 1er Les Grèves This starts with a nice semi-mature nose – not much leaf but a spicy depth – about 20 minutes is needed to deliver a seriously impressive kernel of pure red fruit. In the mouth this starts a little spiky – or maybe it’s my palate – but after 10 minutes the acidity has a good balance and the overall demeanour is much, much smoother and shows a textured depth of flavour. Good vintage acidity, of-course, gives an extra mouth-watering push in the finish. Very nice wine… Rebuy – Yes

more rudy k…

The best commentary on the Rudy K saga yet, fashioned by somebody who was there as a ‘player’. http://oldvinenotes.com/ [Archived]

now there’s a thing – a new owner in montrachet…

now there’s a thing – a new owner in montrachet…

French businessman François Pinault just bought 0,417 hectares of Montrachet for 1 million € via @bourgognelive — Caroline PARENT GROS (@cparentgros) Juni 15, 2012 So, following on from yesterday’s news stories, now we know how Etienne de Montille can afford to buy the Château du Puligny-Montrachet But as far as I know the Château de Puligny-Montrachet actually held 0.0428ha – that only produces a little over 200 bottles per year! – so perhaps Caroline’s decimal point slipped: http://chateaudepuligny.com/fiche_technique.php?id=15&type=1 So that would make the whole vineyard worth €186.7 million….! [EDIT] There you go: Uh oh, expensive typo. It is 1million € for 0,0417 hectares of Montrachet that François Pinault bought from Chateau de Puligny. — Caroline PARENT GROS (@cparentgros) Juni 15, 2012

fraud – a statement from the BIVB

fraud – a statement from the BIVB

Whilst it doesn’t say that much in itself, I find it highly encouraging that they are so open about this: Investigation at Labouré Roi: Burgundy wine industry joins proceedings as civil party Beaune, le 15 juin 2012 Following the announcement on Wednesday, 13th June of an investigation being carried out jointly by the fraud office and the police into a suspected case of fraudulent activity within the firm Labouré Roi, the Burgundy wine industry has decided to join proceedings as a civil party in order to be fully informed of the details of the case. The Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB), whose primary role is to promote and enhance the image of its wines, recognises the seriousness of the accusations made being brought against this company. [....]

various…

So plenty of hot air is being generated by the fraud story broken by Le Bien Public yesterday, but frankly there seems only hot air; the few known ‘facts’ seem to be an idea of the quantity of fraudulent bottles (one assumes lower appellation wine being given a higher appellation label rather than cutting with vin d’Algerie as was once popular) and that four directors of Labouré-Roi have been arrested. I guess more ‘facts’ might prejudice any trial, but let’s see if anything useful leaches out… Château du Puligny-Montrachet has been bought by the de Montille family of Volnay. The only surprise here is that the official announcement of this has taken so long – there was plenty of ‘chatter’ already at the end of [....]

fraud!

It’s not just about faking expensive old bottles like Rudy K, fraud can touch all buyers: Bad news from the Côte d’Or – fraud at Laboure-Roi concerning up to 2 million bottles it seems! More information will doubtless follow…

a few pics…

a few pics…

A few pics from the first week of hols…

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