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andre nudant 1979 corton-charlemagne

andre nudant 1979 corton-charlemagne

1979 Andre Nudant, Corton-Charlemagne Golden. Old oak notes, though nothing musty or obviously oxidative – given an hour or so and that typical old-white lanolin aroma comes through – pretty good! Silky with some fat and intensity. Long flavours have a hint of bitterness but plenty of interest. The bitterness quickly takes on a more mineral aspect. Drinking very well after 2 hours – good stuff! Rebuy – No Chance

vaudoisey-creusefond 1993 pommard epenots

vaudoisey-creusefond 1993 pommard epenots

Getting bored yet? I hope not, I have one more after this! Maybe I’ll have a short daliance with something else in-between though! 1993 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard 1er Epenots Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has an extra dimension of dark-fruited depth, again a little brown sugar but this time with almost no leaf. Cool, intense, rather smooth and an understated tannin that only presents itself if you swirl the wine around your mouth. There is some of the flavour profile of the previous two wines, and like them, the outer-edge of the flavour has a slight bitter element, but this wine delivers far more in terms of ‘presence’. So there is more depth to this wine – a vintage aspect – but the key difference is [....]

mikulski…

A nice write-up on François Mikulski today…

vaudoisey-creusefond 1992 pommard epenots

vaudoisey-creusefond 1992 pommard epenots

Onto the 1992. This was for a long time, a vintage of which nobody spoke, like a mad aunt hidden from view – but the therapy of time has seen many wines blossom in the last 5 years, or so. 1992 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard 1er Epenots Medium, medium-plus colour. Here the nose leaves an impression of sugar dusted leaves over a dense core of plum, occasional accents of mocha too – a couple of hours also betray a brown-sugar note. Decent freshness and fruit that has a nice sweet-sour balance to it. Unlike the ’91, if you roll this wine around your mouth you will find some tannin, and, heading into the finish, it still has a faint edge of astringency – but without too much [....]

vaudoisey-creusefond 1991 pommard epenots

vaudoisey-creusefond 1991 pommard epenots

I ‘scored’ a number of vintages of this wine at auction, time for a first look. I’ve long been a fan of the 1991 vintage, but for reds of the Côte de Nuits – from my modest sampling it seems to me that the Côte de Beaune is much less consistent. Here is a wine that sort of straddles the line – nice aromas but a flavour profile that’s far from cuddly – for the first hour or two after opening anyway… 1991 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard 1er Epenots Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little classic ‘leaf’ and fainter, higher-toned, herbs. As the glass drains a classy red fruit note comes to the fore. There is sweetness and a little plumpness to the texture too. [....]

pierre boillot 1978 meursault-charmes

pierre boillot 1978 meursault-charmes

1978 Pierre Boillot, Meursault 1er Charmes Medium-plus golden colour. The nose betrays no overt oxidation, rather it is the classic nose of an older wine but with extra bolstering from a strong herbal note too. That herbal note is also part of the flavour profile; this is a little fat but with a lovely acidity that cleaves through the centre of the wine and emphasises its intensity. To be honest, this isn’t that complex a wine despite its mature profile. Tasty, and it holds the attention too – but based on the first two bottles, I think the 1976 significantly the better wine. I wonder if subsequent comparisons will agree… Rebuy – No Chance

hail in the côtes

hail in the côtes

I’m waiting for more substantiated reports – i.e. in terms of ‘actual damage’ – but in the early evening yesterday, hail visited many parts of the Côte d’Or. The hail was relatively short-lived, being quickly replaced by heavy rain – but the storm was violent and, while it lasted, the size of the hail was ‘considerable’. The perfect illustration (right) comes from a friend who lives in Beaune. I’ll update this post during the day as more news filters through. “Hopefully it is less sad that it first looks” was my guarded response, but based on two vigneron’s responses, hardly so in the Côte de Beaune which was hit pretty hard. Pinot noir in Volnay, Pommard and Monthélie have losses of up-to 50% (the damaged [....]

a brace of 2003 combe aux moines – a shame the performances weren’t bracing…

a brace of 2003 combe aux moines – a shame the performances weren’t bracing…

These two bottles had been standing side-by-side for a while, so I decided the football semi-finals would be a good time to broach them. 2003 Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines Quite a young colur – seemingly holding onto just a hint of purple. The nose – oops – sweet, medium toast oak is the dominant note, and on a wine that’s approaching its first decade too. The flavour is of oak and a faint impression of reduction too. Day 1 I didn’t think much of it – albeit sweet and easy to drink – indeed it reminds me exactly of why I didn’t enjoy some of the Pousse d’Or wines. It’s quite a feat to dominate Gevrey in a similar way to Chambolle [....]

michel juillot 1996 corton-perrières

michel juillot 1996 corton-perrières

Just a little something that was polished off in double-quick time without any real note-taking. A very drinkable, if young-ish wine. Maybe a little too simple for a Grand Cru (and I’m a big fan of Perrières) but what there is, is delivered with a nice intensity. Not a wine to turn down, I’m perfectly happy to have a couple more in the cellar, though I wouldn’t make a special search to buy more.

domaine maume – alive and well, despite other reports…

domaine maume – alive and well, despite other reports…

When I previously reported on the ‘death of Domaine Maume‘, it was based on two news reports and a subsequent conversation I had with Pascal Marchand in Zürich. The reports had never mentioned Bertrand Maume, and actually he was never a subject of my chat with Pascal either – probably driven by me as I assumed Bertrand was now out of the picture – mea-culpa! I did eventually correct myself once the current situation was confirmed to me by ‘Marchand-Tawse’ – i.e. that Bertrand remains at the domaine and that Pascal is merely delivering the benefit of his long careers in consulting and wine-making – but that correction was rather buried in the comments section of the original post. So what better way to make [....]

the hot topic – mildew

Everyone’s talking about it: Mildew pressure is high this year, especially in Burgundy. Starting in bordeaux. Rhone still ok. All of us in bio need to keep faith !!! — Frederic Engerer (@4Vignes) Juni 26, 2012

a few days in the côtes: sun, rain, mildew, coccinelle and damn volkswagens

a few days in the côtes: sun, rain, mildew, coccinelle and damn volkswagens

I’m typing this during my last few hours in Beaune, whilst in the background the traditional lament of the ‘pipes of pan do Abba’ waft from that Saturday market. I’ve had a nice couple of days tasting at some new addresses, and also some car-related issues while I’ve been here. I’ll give you a laugh about the car later… But, to the vines, and what an incredibly challenging year! What began as an early starting, and very dry year, has morphed into a very wet one – so far – and the potential for an August harvest has long-since evaporated – actually a little breeze and evaporation would figure in most vignerons’ dreams. Unfortunately a lot of the wet weather arrived during flowering so things [....]

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