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harvest: september 26th

harvest: september 26th

To a soundtrack of Johnny Cash and Massive Attack we make our own attack on the grapes of Lavaux St.Jacques and Maranges Croix de Moines – happy under our cover from incessant rain. [Edit: The rain lasted for 30 hours, delivering 50mm!] The Gevrey is lovely – we use about one-third whole clusters – and even the other two-thirds from this produce of a lovely old-vine selection needs not much more than a cursory trie. Then we have the big cuvée of Maranges which will take us right up to lunch to finish the triage. If it hadn’t been for the rain, these would have been left on the vine a couple of days longer – and it’s easy to see why – a mix [....]

Volnay Santenots

harvest: september 25th

Too true. This morning we have managed to keep completely dry, despite a little rain in some parts of the Côtes. Lots of grapes to pick today as the forecast is rather bad for tommorrow. People are racing against the elements… Our grapes today have been against (my) expectations – in both directions! Opening with Volnay Santenots and based on so many problems in the area, including a few who didn’t even bother to harvest, we have some lovely grapes. I suppose the appellation is over 30 hectares and ours, at least, had reasonqable yields and nice bunch confirmations. The Corton Clos du Roi that followed was less good; admitedly there was little to triage, but the berry size was quite large. After lunch – [....]

The aftermath!

harvest: september 24th

There was a lot of rain overnight, fortunately the daytime was drier. The morning was punctuated by some heavy bursts, but only for 10-15 minutes at time – p.m. was mainly dry. Our first grapes of the day were from the Santenay 1er of La Comme – quite a bit of triage needed here – hailed berries, botrytis, etc. – about a 2007 level of triage rather than (worse) 2004, our team boss said these were the worst grapes of the vintage so far. Next-up was Vosne villages: the old vines have produced clean, lovely millerandes (like every year), only the younger vines had fatter berries and needed a little more triage – a decent percentage of perfect clusters were used for the cuvée. Then [....]

ramonet 2010 bourgogne pinot noir

ramonet 2010 bourgogne pinot noir

2010 Ramonet, Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Nomacorked’. Medium, medium-plus colour. Quite high toned fruit but with a dark-skinned cherry impression. Whilst the 09 was a bit of a triumph chez Ramonet, this is a wine that is just a little mouth-puckering. Fresh it is though, and with a nice intensity too – I’d definitely want some food as a foil to this, though. Rebuy – Maybe

Cuvee-Alexandrine
Courtesy Alexandrine Roy

harvest: a few more notes

Starting with bit of an advertorial from François Labet at Château La Tour in the Clos de Vougeot. We just started slowly and our forecast looks quite accurate. We picked yesterday the young vines replanted in the Vieilles Vignes plots at Chateau de la Tour. We expect to produce about 50% of a normal harvest!!! fortunately the buckets of sorted fruits are quite empty as the grapes used are ripe and clean. This will enable us to produce a great vintage. There will certainly be a Cuvée Hommage in 2012 !! François Labet, this morning Ça y est c est parti ! Gros score hier au nombre de parcelle , clos des angles , pommard fremiers , jarolieres , chanlins, volnay fremiets , cailleret , [....]

harvest: rain today…

Starting with two views… Miserable day in Burgundy. Rain overnight and drizzling now. Not good for the grapes. — Nayan Gowda (@vinosity) September 22, 2012 Rainfall from yest to this morning. 32mm in Savigny, 22mm in Volnay.Given the drought in the past5 weeks, I think the vines can take it. — TomokoKuriyama (@TomokoKuriyama) September 22, 2012 Les Tessons ce matin à 9 heures. Petite récolte et tri drastique sur la table… twitter.com/Patrick_Essa/s… — Patrick Essa (@Patrick_Essa) September 22, 2012

Beaune Premier Cru Perrieres
Courtesy Louis Latour

harvest time…

At the home domaine anyway! Today was the home-team’s start (ignoring a little bourgogne blanc must, already delivered) with grapes arriving from Beaune 1er Cras, Savigny 1er Les Peuillets and Aloxe 1er Les Valozières. ‘The Boss’ notes: Honestly, it looks good – I’m surprised to be happy! I’ve delayed as much as possible, but these vineyards (at least) are quite easy to triage – just some dried grapes from either hail or sunburn. So-far we’ve had no botrytis to remove, the grapes arriving this morning were cold and firm – it was around 5°C when they were picked. Of-course, every vineyard is different: some of my usual contracts I’ll walk away from due to pretty awful fruit. On the other hand some of my usual [....]

hospices de beaune – newly in print…

hospices de beaune – newly in print…

For those with an interest, there’s a new book been published about the Hospices de Beaune – in theory with new material from the archives. At almost 500 pages you will have to work hard to find the new material, if for no other reason than the book is published in French! Looks like a true reference work… (No affiliation, etcetera…) Oh, and for your interest – and a bit of fun – how about trading-up?

jean-marc bouley 2010 bourgogne hautes côtes de beaune

2010 Jean-Marc Bouley, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Medium-plus colour. Not super-concentrated aromas but the delicate dark red berries are rather precise. The obvious first impression is the tightening of your cheeks due to the forward acidity, only afterwards do you get your reward of an intense, rather concentrated fruit, it’s like a summer-pudding – to which you might normally add a little cream or sugar! I’m certainly enjoying it, and returning to it (often!). It’s lovely, but I’d say drink it in it’s first three years to avoid it becoming harsh as the fruit fades, but it has a lovely fine and transparent fruit finish. Day 2 the last 1/3rd of the bottle seemed more balanced – certainly a super Bourgogne. Rebuy – Yes

a brace if îles…

a brace if îles…

I’m currently straining at the bit for ‘vendanges info’ as I won’t be in the Côtes until next Monday – to distract myself this weekend, not only a few hours walking in the ‘hills’ but a trio of nice wines too: Starting with Daniel Rion’s 1995 Vosne 1er les Beaux Monts. It’s not that long since I gave a note on that one – so I won’t repeat myself – but again it was a good wine. Then a pair of Île de Vergelesses – both were on great form. I can see me collecting a few other labels from this vineyard over the next months… 2009 Chandon de Briailles, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose gives a simply wonderful impression [....]

‘parasitical & inflationary’

This is good news for those idealists who view wine investment as fundamentally parasitical and inflationary… Andrew Jefford @ Decanter That’ll be me then! [Archived]

views of the hills…

views of the hills…

Saturday was a quiet day in the ‘hills’:

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