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diy vineyards – but only vin de table?

diy vineyards – but only vin de table?

I’d seen the construction work since at least July 2012 – it could have been June – but what exactly was going on with those earth-movers up the Chemin des Argillières above the Clos l’Arlot in Nuits St.Georges? This week I managed to quiz a few locals and an interesting, indeed amazing story was relayed – though let’s be clear, it’s just their ‘story': This is a vineyard that has been ‘constructed’ – it simply wasn’t there last year – but this is construction on an industrial scale. Apparently some old building(s?) at the foot of the ancient (1500-1700s or probably older(?)) stone quarry had been bought by a resident of Dijon – who came originally from Premeaux. With hundreds of tonnes of materials he [....]

results from the hospices de beaune sale…

results from the hospices de beaune sale…

Picture from the organisers. The official statement from the organisers. For what it is worth, I think the prices underline the expected quality of what was harvested, but more-so the quantity that was actually harvested, given that 2012’s lowest yields were seen in the Côte de Beaune. Whilst I personally felt Anthony Hanson’s pre-sale hyperbole about 2005 levels of quality too much, here is his post-sale assessment: “Many records were broken at the 152nd Hospices de Beaune auction. Star cuvées among the red wines included (with average price per barrel and percentage increase compared with 2011): Clos de la Roche, Cuvée Georges Kritter €55,667 (without premium +94.2%) and Mazis-Chambertin, Cuvée Madeleine Collignon at €38,318 (without premium +57.7%). Thanks to a recent generous donation, a new [....]

philippe livera (tilleuls) 2010 fixin

2010 Philippe Livera (Domaine Tilleuls), Fixin Quite deeply coloured. The nose is deep with dark cherry fruit and subtle oak spice. Lithe, growing in intensity with a fine acidity which is tempered with a ripely grained tannin. So a wine with intensity, rather than concentration of flavour – yet at it’s level, this is well-made, clean and tasty but with no lack of character. A very good buy. Rebuy – Yes

was something happening in beaune this weekend?

was something happening in beaune this weekend?

bart 2010 marsannay champs salomon

bart 2010 marsannay champs salomon

2010 Bart, Marsannay Les Champs Salomon Medium, medium-plus colour. The aromas deliver a big punch of sweet, toasty oak – the dark elements behind seem a little more cola-like than fruit. After 1 hour the toast has faded a little but not the sweetness or the cola, even the last drops in the glass are broad and indistinct. Nice balance, decent acidity and understated tannins. It is the flavours that are largely unsatisfying – reflecting the nose they are sweet and broad with almost something tasty and interestingly focused in the mouth-watering mid-palate – almost. No obvious faults here but it’s not really to my taste – I think you guessed that! This is not an expensive bottle – but no excuses – I expect [....]

rossignol-trapet 2010 gevrey vv

rossignol-trapet 2010 gevrey vv

I met a couple of RTs at the Gevrey Syndicat 2010 tasting, this time last year (Hmm, must be time for 2011s!). And I was so happy to see that they’d left behind their overwhelming 1990’s ‘wall of toasty oak’ era and you could actually taste and smell the wines – good they were too. Of-course, I’m completely glossing over the wonderful 1990 RT Latricières we had with dinner last month! Anyway, last year I tasted their villages Etelios, rather than this VV, and have the impression that the former should be better than this wine – but bottled and side-by-side, who knows…(?) 2010 Rossignol-Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a faint whiff of toasty oak with some higher tones. [....]

removing clarity – what’s the story…?

I can but speculate. But unfortunately this page is not currently in-line for an update. Sadly, this valuable resource (valuable not just for me I’m sure) currently has no ‘vintage 2011′ update for yields by appellation. I found many aspects of this annual document useful when writing FWOB, and Clive Coates used to use the summary information for every one of his vintage reports, but my contact in Beaune now tells me that ‘the direction no-longer want to make this information public’. Is this to remove any semblance of clarity when it comes to the very low yields of 2012 and whatever pricing they attract? Or some other reason? Right now it’s hard to say, but it is a retrograde step for any organisation that [....]

michel noëllat 2010 savigny les lavières

michel noëllat 2010 savigny les lavières

2010 Michel Noëllat, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières Medium, medium-plus colour. The very shy nose has a hint of savoury to it, perhaps vaguely reductive – either that or oaky! In the mouth this is very well balanced, there’s a nice intensity and good acidity too. The fruit is a little dark shaded and perhaps shows a little Lavières earth. The tannin is quite polished and far from grainy, though seems to speak a little more of barrel than grape, likewise, the flavour in the finish is quite creamily barrel inflected (as opposed to old-vine cream). I like many aspects of this wine, and the bits I’m less fond of will probably fade as the oak influence subsides – perhaps 6-12 months should be enough. On [....]

wine drones…

No, not people who go on and on and on and on about Bachelet and Rousseau and, and, and… I can just see a crusty-fingered vigneron getting to grips with this on his iPhone! [Archived]

maratray-dubreuil 2010 ladoix les nagets

maratray-dubreuil 2010 ladoix les nagets

Perhaps another domaine worth visiting. This is a monopole of the domaine (of which I hadn’t heard) planted to both red and white. 2010 Maratray-Dubreuil, Ladoix 1er Les Nagets Medium yellow colour. The nose offers faint patissière with ripe lemons and seems quite concentrated. In the mouth this has quite some richness – the acidity plays understudy to that ripe concentration, and as the primary fruit shrinks with age this may well enjoy better and better balance – but for now, keep it cold or it is ponderous. Just a little creamy padding to the fruit in the finish, maybe with a hint of salt too. More-ish, very, very tasty wine which I’d drink again, but maybe wouldn’t buy again. Rebuy – Maybe

smugglers all…

“Among men and women who consider themselves Grail-seekers of Pinot Noir, it is understood that smuggling is part of the tradition” A really great article by Rusty Gaffney aka The Prince of Pinot…

pierre amiot 2010 morey st.denis

pierre amiot 2010 morey st.denis

As far as I can remember, this is my first wine from ‘Pierre Amiot’. Actually the label says it is bottled by Jean-Louis and Didier Amiot – next generation? I’m sure there’s a story therein, and given how nice this wine was, I think it’s a story worth following… 2010 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a powdery dark fruit, not quite musty, but it anyway gets cleaner and glossier in the glass. Hmmm – this is lovely! – Smooth entry, beautiful acidity and showing an intensity of fresh, darkly-fruited flavour. The tannin’s not particularly grainy though shows a little stickiness. Just a little creamier flavour in the finish. ‘Yum’ certainly covers it… Rebuy – Yes

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