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billn

ten years apart – a brace of corton…

ten years apart – a brace of corton…

2003 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières Much deeper colour than the 1993, clearly much younger too – here’s a 2003 that’s holding up very well. The nose is deep and round – roast fruit too but that comes with the vintage territory – hints of herbs at its circumference. Weight, but there’s really a good acidic balance. I recently tried the ‘96 of this but this is wine has much better weight and for the vintage is clearly much more successful. I like this very much. Nice to have a few more in the cellar. Rebuy – Yes 1993 André Nudant, Corton Bressandes The colour shows some age but retains just a kernel of red. The nose is deep and leafy with a warm sweetness – [....]

energy and exotic fruit…

I loved this post. I have experience of tasting at ‘larger producers’ where the ‘host(ess)’ might suddenly throw in ‘exotic fruit’ and whilst I might nod in understanding, it’s not something I actually wrote myself – yet, how many other people tasted there? Why? The number of notes I subsequently read with ‘exotic fruit’ as a descriptor. I’m pretty sure it’s a game that some producers play – a bonus going to the employee whose phrase was copied the most!

fwob reviewed by clive coates mw

FWOB, kindly reviewed by Clive Coates MW – to him, my thanks… [Archived] Also ‘new in’ today, another excellent piece from Vinography.

a tale of two griottes: chézeaux & chézeaux…

a tale of two griottes: chézeaux & chézeaux…

Domaine des Chézeaux, by a big margin the largest owners of Griotte-Chambertin, have two metayeurs for their holdings (the two parcels were acquired at different times); Domaine René Leclerc and Domaine Ponsot. For a number of years there was confusion about who made the wine that was sold under the Chézeaux label; the first step to improving this was the addition of the metayeur’s name on the front label, the second was to goto just one wine – in this case they marketed only the Ponsot wine and passed a couple of barrels (ex Leclerc) off into the trade. Now for the 2010 vintage they have, once again, decided to sell both metayeurs’ versions. This is the essence of Burgundian complexity, all from one small [....]

a tale of two chambolles: ponsot & de villamont

a tale of two chambolles: ponsot & de villamont

I recognise their headquarters in Savigny, but I can’t recall tasting many wines from de Villamont – they have quite a mix of domaine vines, and like most producers in Burgundy, they are trying to emphasise quality over quantity – so I heard! – this should be a good test, despite the different vintages. [Edited with day two impression] Overall they showcase their respective vintages: The de Villamont is like fruit preserve, the Ponsot is like the fresh fruit – choose your favourite… 2009 Henri de Villamont, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feusselottes Medium-plus colour. The nose starts deep and ripe – there’s an emphasis on licorice, some dried herbs too but there’s also a ripe, dark-red fruit. Understated entry, but there is a welling of intensity [....]

life and times of jacques…

From Vinography on Saturday… [Archived]

louis chenu 2011 savigny blanc

louis chenu 2011 savigny blanc

My first 2011 at home. And very tasty it was too. 2011 Louis Chenu et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc Bottled a little earlier than usual because they had already run out of 2010 and needed something to sell! Medium-pale lemon-yellow. After the last of the previous day’s Chassagne, this has a more floral aromatic with an occasional savoury reference. In the mouth it’s a little sweeter than the Chassagne and has just a little more balancing acidity too – if not the overall density of that wine. The floral component of the nose is equally on display in the flavour profile. Flighty, interesting, flavoursome and with a good balance to boot. I can also imagine this wine selling-out double-quick! Rebuy – Yes

champy 2009 chassagne-montrachet

champy 2009 chassagne-montrachet

Looks like I’ll be going through a white wine phase – it’s 33°C outside – let’s see how long it (both!) lasts 2009 Maison Champy, Chassagne-Montrachet Medium lemon-yellow. The nose starts with a faint soap-powder note that has me thinking more of 2010 than 2009, but there’s a warm core of ripe, green-skinned fruit too. There’s a little richness but the acidity has a good-enough balance to bring. Just also a hint of the savoury in the sweet mid-palate – very decent concentration here. Overall, this a very tasty wine which I’d happily buy again, but just missing a hint of pizzaz that might have me actively searching for it. Rebuy – Yes

louis jadot (gagey) 2010 beaune gréves

louis jadot (gagey) 2010 beaune gréves

2010 Louis Jadot (Gagey), Beaune 1er Les Grèves Clos Blanc Medium lemon-yellow. The nose has a faint creamy undertow from the oak, but largely this wine is about a tight core of fruit. In the mouth this has silky texture and good intensity too – there’s just a little oaky angularity too, but this fades within about 25 minutes. The flavour is quite citrussy and has fine balance, just a hint of minerality in the finish. This wine needs a little longer to round out than the Bressandes, and to be honest, I prefer that wine – but that doesn’t mean that this isn’t a honey! Lovely wine. Rebuy – Yes

it’s the soil…

When I think of my wines, I do not see the vines or fruit, but the incomparable quality of these soils, which are the clearest difference between a wine “bien fait” and wine “hors classé” Patrick Essa Terre,terroirs et crus … Qui commande?! degustateurs.com/forum/forum_po… — Patrick Essa (@Patrick_Essa) Juli 24, 2012

a change is afoot!

a change is afoot!

Just back from a largely wine-free weekend away. Despite the sci-fi cloud image from Manchester Airport on Friday (a quick and painless immigration check by the way!), I have the impression that the jet stream might finally be heading Northwards: Whilst the 2012 harvest volumes will be modest (or lower!), the final quality of those bottles is far from written – it looks like a period of good weather is on the way – we just need that humidity to reduce a little – and maybe a north-wind too…

Reading Between The Wines, Terry Theise (2010)

Reading Between The Wines, Terry Theise (2010)

Published by UCP. I finally get the time to place my fingers on the keyboard, about two weeks after I’ve actually finished this book – I’m already a third of the way through a follow-up volume… ‘Reading Between The Wines’ (with the addition of a little, but not too much, writing) sounds just like my current existence – so this must be a book written for me – and largely it is. Terry Theise (that would be pronounced ‘Thizer’ if his German connections follow through…), or TT, as I will from now-on refer to him, certainly has a gift for writing; though his American roots shout out from the pages as he ‘kibitzes, schvitzes and schmaltzes (and many other words with ‘zeds’ (zees) in them [....]

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