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billn

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

It’s been a while since I opened a 2006, and given that I thought Nuits/Vosne to be the very epicentre of 2006 quality – where better to start(?) 2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Murgers Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and dark-shaded with almost black cherry notes to the fore – let the glass drain and there are beguiling red fruit notes too. Despite being at an ‘awkward’ age, there is still some padding to the texture, and the high-toned dark fruit has a real underpinning of tannin and acidity – currently they have a fine balance, despite the tannin’s texture being just-about the wrong side of velvet – but it’s a lovely package, really lovely. Surprisingly open and giving right now; more [....]

louis chenu 2010 savigny 1er aux clous

2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous Barely medium colour. The nose is lovely: lot’s and lots of red berries, shaded to raspberry, but with an undertow of something faintly earthy and mneral. Surprising intensity here (after the colour – such is Burgundy!) – there is so much flavour here, strawberry/ raspberry fruit (again) underpinned with that earthy mineral note that shows on the nose. Just a first class balance here: faintly padded texture and lots of flavour. At twice the price, this would be something of a bargain! Rebuy – Yes

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

This Meursault had a very smelly cork indeed – had me thinking oxidised, but I won’t say ‘premature’! 1983 Jacques Prieur, Meursault Clos de Mazeray The colour is certainly aged, but mercifully the aroma seems to have little to do with the cork. The aromas start a little murky, then there’s home-made lemonade(!), slowly but surely a decent red berry note comes into focus, underpinned by a leafy note that seemingly adds texture – this just gets better and better. Lithe, slightly lean in stature as the acidity has an element that isn’t completely ripe, but overall – no great problem. There’s decent enough concentration and an (overall) interesting glass of wine – the fruit seems to have just enough sweetness to make me want [....]

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little burly but settles down, softening with time in the glass: fine red fruit and a Volnay-esque perfume – very nice indeed! Lithe, lovely acidity, slowly growing, fresh mid-palate flavours – you will hardly note any tannin – this is really on a much higher level than I had assumed. Lovely wine – for me this is always the ‘value’ (red) cuvée chez Lafon. Rebuy – Yes

in defence of auction houses (?)

The thoughts of Maureen Downey. [Archived]

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute… 2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed [....]

louis jadot 1998 beaune les grèves

1999 not so good? Hmm, Bill – why don’t you try the 1998 and let us know what you think? Well that’s a good idea – thanks – I will! 1998 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Corked to bits! Bugger! Rebuy – No

el bulli wine auction

el bulli wine auction

Probably the closest I could now come to El Bulli. A lot of decent prices for Burgundy (in a three star context), it might be an interesting auction to follow. It seems they liked Le Moine!

jadot 1999 beaune 1er les grèves

jadot 1999 beaune 1er les grèves

Okay, after yesterday’s disappointment, at least I can still smell and taste today – so why not another 99 Beaune? This is a négoce wine, and versus the usual quality of Jadot’s domaine offerings, it’s a bit of a disappointment too! 1999 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves The colour shows more age than yesterday’s Germain, it’s not as dark either. Likewise, the nose already has some development – mature leaf mixes with rather unripe and slightly ungainly green notes – but it’s not pyrazine – there’s a deep, slightly baked base of fruit but initially the herbs are dominant. In the mouth there’s a sweet core of fruit but as the wine expands – and expand it does – the leading edge of the [....]

‘no american complained…’

Pinot Exceptionalism? From the wine economist… Also (on a completely different tack), Part 1: The idiot’s guide to idiot’s guides…

château de chorey 1999 beaune 1er les cras

château de chorey 1999 beaune 1er les cras

Maybe the last bottle for a few days – an itchy throat and cough not yet marring the taste buds but it seems imminent! 1999 Château de Chorey (Germain), Beaune 1er Les Cras VV I so wanted to say nice things about this wine, but in the end it disappoints – today at-least. The medium-plus glossy colour invites you: The nose starts spicy and a bit oaky. In the mouth this is lithe, muscled but supported still by barrel staves – it’s so clear in the texture. I wait for aeration – surely that will bring some balance(?) The nose with air develops a reasonably strong pyrazine note (3/10) to add to the dark red fruit and (probably oak) spice. This is clearly a concentrated [....]

ten years apart – a brace of corton…

ten years apart – a brace of corton…

2003 Michel Juillot, Corton Perrières Much deeper colour than the 1993, clearly much younger too – here’s a 2003 that’s holding up very well. The nose is deep and round – roast fruit too but that comes with the vintage territory – hints of herbs at its circumference. Weight, but there’s really a good acidic balance. I recently tried the ‘96 of this but this is wine has much better weight and for the vintage is clearly much more successful. I like this very much. Nice to have a few more in the cellar. Rebuy – Yes 1993 André Nudant, Corton Bressandes The colour shows some age but retains just a kernel of red. The nose is deep and leafy with a warm sweetness – [....]

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