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billn

billn

removing clarity – what’s the story…?

I can but speculate. But unfortunately this page is not currently in-line for an update. Sadly, this valuable resource (valuable not just for me I’m sure) currently has no ‘vintage 2011′ update for yields by appellation. I found many aspects of this annual document useful when writing FWOB, and Clive Coates used to use the summary information for every one of his vintage reports, but my contact in Beaune now tells me that ‘the direction no-longer want to make this information public’. Is this to remove any semblance of clarity when it comes to the very low yields of 2012 and whatever pricing they attract? Or some other reason? Right now it’s hard to say, but it is a retrograde step for any organisation that [....]

michel noëllat 2010 savigny les lavières

michel noëllat 2010 savigny les lavières

2010 Michel Noëllat, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières Medium, medium-plus colour. The very shy nose has a hint of savoury to it, perhaps vaguely reductive – either that or oaky! In the mouth this is very well balanced, there’s a nice intensity and good acidity too. The fruit is a little dark shaded and perhaps shows a little Lavières earth. The tannin is quite polished and far from grainy, though seems to speak a little more of barrel than grape, likewise, the flavour in the finish is quite creamily barrel inflected (as opposed to old-vine cream). I like many aspects of this wine, and the bits I’m less fond of will probably fade as the oak influence subsides – perhaps 6-12 months should be enough. On [....]

wine drones…

No, not people who go on and on and on and on about Bachelet and Rousseau and, and, and… I can just see a crusty-fingered vigneron getting to grips with this on his iPhone! [Archived]

maratray-dubreuil 2010 ladoix les nagets

maratray-dubreuil 2010 ladoix les nagets

Perhaps another domaine worth visiting. This is a monopole of the domaine (of which I hadn’t heard) planted to both red and white. 2010 Maratray-Dubreuil, Ladoix 1er Les Nagets Medium yellow colour. The nose offers faint patissière with ripe lemons and seems quite concentrated. In the mouth this has quite some richness – the acidity plays understudy to that ripe concentration, and as the primary fruit shrinks with age this may well enjoy better and better balance – but for now, keep it cold or it is ponderous. Just a little creamy padding to the fruit in the finish, maybe with a hint of salt too. More-ish, very, very tasty wine which I’d drink again, but maybe wouldn’t buy again. Rebuy – Maybe

smugglers all…

“Among men and women who consider themselves Grail-seekers of Pinot Noir, it is understood that smuggling is part of the tradition” A really great article by Rusty Gaffney aka The Prince of Pinot…

pierre amiot 2010 morey st.denis

pierre amiot 2010 morey st.denis

As far as I can remember, this is my first wine from ‘Pierre Amiot’. Actually the label says it is bottled by Jean-Louis and Didier Amiot – next generation? I’m sure there’s a story therein, and given how nice this wine was, I think it’s a story worth following… 2010 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a powdery dark fruit, not quite musty, but it anyway gets cleaner and glossier in the glass. Hmmm – this is lovely! – Smooth entry, beautiful acidity and showing an intensity of fresh, darkly-fruited flavour. The tannin’s not particularly grainy though shows a little stickiness. Just a little creamier flavour in the finish. ‘Yum’ certainly covers it… Rebuy – Yes

confrérie des chevalieres du tastevin – a bad career move…

Bet you can get plenty of wine in a C37 though

prince florent de merode 2008 ladoix chaillots

prince florent de merode 2008 ladoix chaillots

Actually, on checking, I’m astounded to see that this cost only £60 for 6 IB when purchased en-primeur (check Howard Ripley on the blue  below). Cheaper, but magnificently better wine, than probably all Bourgognes… 2008 Prince Florent de Merode, Ladoix Les Chaillots Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is very shy, just faint red cherry and occasional slightly lactic notes. In the mouth there’s a smooth entry and a quite impressive, acid-led, intensity yet there is concentration to balance. High-toned fruit almost tends to esters, but remains tasty. The tannin is slidy/sticky rather than grainy. Even before you see the price this is very moreish. Exceptional quality for the price. Rebuy – Yes I was also very happy when I got home yesterday – two mixed [....]

chenu 2010 savigny 1er aux clous

chenu 2010 savigny 1er aux clous

Yes, I know, they aren’t going to last very long are they…(?) 2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous Just as good as the last one. Rebuy – Yes I have the impression that this is exactly the sort of unpretentious but tasty wine of which Frank J. Prial would have approved…

fourrier’s 2004 chambolle-musigny vv

Here’s a wine I’ve tried on-and-off since it was released – last time was mid-2010. I’ve previously noted a faint pyrazine so it’s good to revist to see what’s happening. Actually, forgetting (for a moment) the vintage, I often consider this to be JMF’s goto ‘value-cuvée’ – despite him living in Gevrey! Perhaps it’s now too late for this particular vintage as this wine was much more palatable last time… 2004 Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny VV I really do think that there’s sometimes a little pyrazine here – auto-suggestion or real? I don’t know, it’s anyway not consistently there – but fortunately (if/when I spot it) it is on a subtle ‘additive’ level (say 1 from 10, maximum), and nothing to ‘sniff’ at! There’s mainly a darker [....]

Authentic Wine, Goode & Harrop (2011)

Authentic Wine, Goode & Harrop (2011)

Published by UCP. Buy from Amazon (eBook also available). I’ve read the 250 pages of ‘Authentic Wine’ on and off, for about the last couple of months – and I’m so happy I did. NB, that’s 250 pages in a relatively small font – so it could easily have been 400 pages in a different format – this is, after-all, no pocket-sized book, weighing-in at somewhere between A4 and A5 size. I assume that writing a book such as this is far from straight-forward, not from a content perspective, but rather because there were two authors – Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop – and I’m really left wondering how they put together such a seamless piece of work. I have to assume that they have [....]

prince florent de merode 2008 corton clos du roi

prince florent de merode 2008 corton clos du roi

2008 Prince Florent de Merode, Corton Clos du Roi Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little rhubarb and a faint orange character – not exactly ‘comely’ though I suppose it reflects quite a few from the vintage. Eventually there is a dense red fruit aroma. Intense, very decent concentration – even for a GC – very good but far from over-done acidity. Understated tannin and the flavour is rather good, certainly considering the expectations set by the first aromas. Actually this is a wine I’d happily drink again – I’m not sure I’d buy a lot more at the price of many Grand Crus, but this wine was always something of a bargain…! Rebuy – Yes Talking of value…

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