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billn

2000 – definitely vivant…

2000 – definitely vivant…

Long gone is the 60 Euro bottle of Romanée St.Vivant, but I retain a decent back catalogue of the Thomas-Moillard / Charles Thomas bottle (actually just 1998-2003, but hey…). TM were a hard organisation to work out – clearly their wines were made with a minimum 10 years of aging in mind, 20 would be all the better, but in less heralded vintages such as 98 and 2000 they excelled, in 1999 they made something as hard as nails – still, I’ve plenty of time, I think…! Having tried the largely charmless 2000 Hudelot-Noellat a couple of weeks back, and contributor Rick saying that the 2000 Follin-Arbellet was pretty much the same, I thought I’d give this an outing. To start with it seemed to [....]

Pretty as a picture

last weekend pics…

It seemed I was in the only corner of Switzerland with some sunshine this weekend, though the visibility was poor at the end of each day. I may have to try again this week

eichholtz in the walserhof…

It’s not every day that you go to eat eat at the Hotel Walserhof in Klosters; we did it one time before, perhaps seven or eight years ago, and it was everything that you might expect of a ‘renowned table’ in Switzerland; efficiently serviced, tasty food but it wasn’t really ‘inviting’. Yesterday we were in the Walserhof once more and the service team is currently in transition to new managers from Bad Ragaz – but what a difference. Still, the food is very, very good, but yesterday it had a cosy charm about it – it invites you to return – very nice! I was lucky to tag onto a group who were to have a ‘degustations menu’ pared with the wines of a local [....]

Looks like a sunny day

is that ice in my wine?

Two more than acceptable bottles yesterday evening. 2006 Mischief & Mayhem, Meursault Goutte d’Or This was honeyed and almost with a hint of caramel – some people may be shouting ‘p.ox’ but there was not a hint of classic oxidation, simply a wine to curl up with and enjoy – and we did. No blowsy 2006 this, lovely understated balance. 2004 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin Les Murgers du Dents du Chien The same colour as the M&amp:M, but here nose is biscuity and a hint more savoury. Lovely taught, tasty wine – really approaching its apogee perhaps(?) Anyway it was singing and we were happy bunnies… Now where are my boots?

ray the fundamentalist

Like two ships passing, by some fluke, there was a space in my agenda on Friday, at exactly the same time one appeared in Ray Walker’s. Ray’s 2011s seemed excellent to me, though who knows how long you will have to wait to take delivery; citing the slow malos, Ray still has his 2010 Gevrey Les Corbeaux in barrel – I’m still waiting on that one myself Most interesting for me was our chat: My general impression is that Ray might have gone with the flow a little in 2009, it was after-all his first vintage, but piece by piece and operation by operation he seems to have taken a more considered view on whether ‘tradition’ makes sense to him or not. And he’s done [....]

#ladypyrazines…

Prompted by Mark over in our forum: If I was to do a “pyrazine masterclass”, one in Beaune, one in London (June!), who’d be interested to come? burgundy-report.com/forum/topic.ph… — bill nanson (@billnanson) Januar 14, 2013 Perhaps I should invent a ‘hashtag’ – #ladypyrazines anyone?

a quiet friday night in – in beaune

a quiet friday night in – in beaune

Actually we went to the Bar du Square afterwards

(2011) coccinelle

I’m not so naive that I didn’t expect that I might put a few noses out of joint with my vintage 2011 commentary. But I’m spending quite a bite of time fielding questions and having to justify myself – and to be honest it’s getting a bit too time consuming to keep up with, and that’s without the various ‘forum threads’ that currently populate our planet. Therein, are a significant number of regurgitating challenges and questions that come around, and around, and around, (time and time again!) – people could of-course just read what I have written in 2008, then they wouldn’t need to ask all those questions (again!) Here, culled from my inbox, I’ve put a few observations together, and added a little more [....]

lafon, leroux, de montille and hervet on how to make burgundy…

A good article in Harpers… [Archived] Also très interesting today – here.

le grappin 2011 savigny

2011 Le Grappin, Savigny-lès-Beaune The tight-fitting DIAM 5 only slowly lets loose its grip on the neck. The colour is medium-plus red, hovering around purple at the rim. On the nose there’s a clear P2 but it is sufficiently nested in the overall aromas that it is more of a smudge than a stain. In the mouth this starts rather rumbustious – it’s really going in all directions – I’ll let it rest a while. Forty minutes later the nose plumbs new, almost textured depths, and its behaviour has improved in the mouth: Really, really good extension and dimension of flavour here. There is a decent base of acidity – and tannin too – not many from 2011 can say that. Even for me this [....]

2000 – vivant?

2000 – vivant?

There was a time when such bottles were easy to come by, not so today, but that’s no reason to forget: 2000 Hudelot-Noellat, Romanée St.Vivant It’s a long cork, and just as well, a red line follows a crease almost to the very end – not much time to spare I think! Medium-plus colour. The nose offers plenty of turned, dry leaves – this seems a H-N speciality! – below is a dark plummy core and some green vegetation. In the mouth this is the antithesis of most 2000s, less obviously ripe – both fruit and tannin – but with a certain grand cru volume and intensity. It’s a velvet tannin but still edged with astringency, the finishing flavours are quite long with a little [....]

dancing with digioia-royer

dancing with digioia-royer

I may have had something sweet before this, but it was never going to put this wine in the shade. 2010 Digioia-Royer, Hautes Côtes de Nuits Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a bit of fizz but is short-lived and replaced with dark-skinned cherry. The first instinct is that the acidity is on the bright side but then you’re engulfed by flavour, not too sweet, and dark-fruit shaded. This is a dancer that doesn’t wait for you to make up your mind, it just plucks you from your seat and twirls you around. Smooth texture, understated tannin – be prepared to dance! I’d drink it young to enjoy every bit of its energy! Rebuy – Yes

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