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billn

d’angerville’s 2002 volnay clos des ducs

d’angerville’s 2002 volnay clos des ducs

Until 2010, ask many a Volnaysien which has been their best recent vintage, and a majority will not even mention 2005, rather 2002 gets their rosette. Lets see how that’s going… 2002 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs Deep colour. The nose begins with fine width, though modest depth, yet there is a good floral aromatic – roses rather than violets. Compact, yet intense and concentrated. High-toned fruit and flowers are the main focus of the mid-palate with a slowly developing depth of concentration. I’d describe it as compact rather than tight but there is much complexity here – the acidity is forward but not dominating. Very good length. Rebuy – Yes

jacques’ ‘almost-words’

A short but brilliant vignette of the equally brilliant Jacques Lardière

armand rousseau 1996 gevrey 1er cazetiers

armand rousseau 1996 gevrey 1er cazetiers

1996 Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers The first sniff will enrapture some, but disappoints me; initially I think it’s high-toast oak, it slowly fades though, and fast enough that I assume it must really be reduction – yet the flavour of reduction is missing – a bit of both? – probably, because it never completely fades. Slowly you appreciate some beautiful fruit notes and a slowly growing floral element that also supports the subtler toast. Full in the mouth – but with no extraneous plushness – with an earthy fruit that holds well in the finish, but has a great, higher-toned mid-palate dimension. I would say relatively masculine in profile, energetic, but without any undue emphasis from the acidity. Just a cracking bottle! Rebuy [....]

mugnier’s 1999 chambolle-musigny

mugnier’s 1999 chambolle-musigny

I wasted quite a lot of this wine in its youth: Actually, I didn’t waste any in its first flush of youth when it was just a consistently gorgeous wine, I wasted bottles between its 3rd and 10th birthdays, when the wine was often sullen and typically without charm. It looks like things are now starting to turn around! 1999 JF Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny The colour remains quite deep. Aromatically this has the cushioned, brown sugared (oak!) sweetness of fruit that, for so long, has been missing in action. After half an hour it has tightened and is less pretty – more herbal – so we are still some way from peak drinking. Round in the mouth, the tannin still offers a hint of astringency, but [....]

unesco and 2011…

A couple of news stories: Most important for Burgundy, is the news that it won’t achieve its desired aim to have Unesco World Heritage Staus – not this year anyway. It seems some of the rules were changed and a country could only submit one ‘entry’ per category – that meant that Champagne also missed out. This means that at least one more year of shaking everybody’s hands is required, though France already has 37 ‘things’ with such ‘status’. (More here…) Will Lyons picks out some of his favourite domaines from the 2011 vintage – though (Remi Rollin excepted) none in the Côte de Beaune – no restraint in his recommendation of the vintage.

A little fun from Reilly Ace of Spies…

Cornucopia Vitus from Pinot Noir NZ on Vimeo.

jean-marc bouley 2010 volnay clos de la cave

jean-marc bouley 2010 volnay clos de la cave

Hmm, I realise that I haven’t opened a bottle for a bit. Mid-week crisis! Oh-well, there’s one way to dispose of that notion – how about something from Thomas Bouley? 2010 Jean-Marc Bouley, Volnay Clos de la Cave Maybe a hint more than medium colour – maybe. On first pouring there’s a faint trace of reduction that makes you think of oak but it quickly fades with a stemmy anecdote. Five minutes and the aromas are completely changed, offering a soft strawberry impression. Round with depth, detail and just a little plushness to the texture – but with fine acidity. The tannin is sticky rather than grainy and once you find that tannin, you will also have found another layer of flavour, also with a [....]

just a few weekend pics…

just a few weekend pics…

I suppose work I am now required to work

above the clouds

above the clouds

I’m not skiing, I’m just sitting, drinking in magnificence. You don’t get to do that every day!

human or not?

human or not?

First Humagne of the year

thought of the day

thought of the day

Wine should have a purpose, and that purpose demands the opening of the bottle. Unless a wine is in some respect faulty, it will always have a purpose; wine can be crap, it can be contemplative or it can be conversational (thanks Juel) but given the right circumstance it is always fit for purpose – even if the purpose you have in mind is cooking – just to say I’ve done it, I did once add a little 1996 Lafite to a sauce reduction. If it’s not fun, there is no point Now for some swiss wine – where are my skis!!!

poor padmé

Worth your time: Victoria Moore in the Telegraph Blake Grey in Palate Press – poor Padmé indeed! [Archived] Burgundy_ the wine that makes grown men cry – Telegraph Darth Vader is My Lover_ Revelations About Brettanomyces in Wine – Palate Press

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