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annual vintage chart update

Vintage Chart updated today…

michel lafarge 1986 volnay clos des chênes

michel lafarge 1986 volnay clos des chênes

After the Damoy ’96, why not go back another 10 years! 1986 Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes The cork slides far too easily out, but in one piece and it doesn’t smell too oxidised. Just a hint more than medium colour. Like the Damoy of last night, there is a faint twist of beefy brett, but on a way lower level – the precise red berry fruit literally sweeps it aside – overall an interesting nose but not one that keeps drawing your nose to the glass. In the mouth this has just a little cushioning to the velvet-soft texture, and an acidity that is balancing but slightly too emphasised in the mid-palate. The fruit still has sweetness and interest – this is [....]

maranges, santenay, savigny & pernand

Plus the syndicat de gevrey 2011s – and of-course more 2011s – it must be the Autumn report!

pierre damoy 1996 chapelle-chambertin

pierre damoy 1996 chapelle-chambertin

Always good to check in on an old vintage to see how things are going – rather well for 1996 GCs if this is anything to go by… 1996 Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin Medium-plus colour. Deep, almost liqueur nose, slowly developing leaf note stays very much in the background – eventually something more beefy presents itself, perhaps brett, but we’d finished most of it before then Padded, concentrated, a lovely core of intense fruit – there is even a floral element in there that implies whole clusters. The acidity is uplifting, but not obviously of 1996. Very understated tannin. This is a full and frank wine that entertaining as it is today, still needs 4-5 years I think – hopefully that brett doesn’t get worse! Rebuy [....]

cremant de bourgogne – something for christmas…

cremant de bourgogne – something for christmas…

It’s a little while since I last delved (publicly) into crémant. Those nice people of Louis Bouillot have nevertheless thought it worth asking my opinion of two new bottles, though I note that one is the same as before – zero dosage, single vineyard – and it has rounded out rather nicely. I have to say that both are very drinkable and I really should delve into crémant a little more – but I see no opportunity before the summer… Funnily enough, the more modest bottle was the one that had (non-wino) friends more impressed, the second, grander bottle they described as ‘too winey’ – interesting! Personally for chatting and drinking with nuts and canapés I suppose I agree with all my friends – the [....]

jean-marc pillot 2010 chassagne-montrachet clos st.jean

jean-marc pillot 2010 chassagne-montrachet clos st.jean

2010 Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean Medium-plus colour. High-toned dark fruit with herbs – seems quite Chassagne. If the nose hints at Chassagne, the flavours shout it – sweet dark fruit with a spicy depth and eventually a little barrel flavour as you hit the end of the mid-palate into the finish. Very good length too. Actually, it’s so Chassagne that I’d wait at least a year or two to tone it down – but very tasty it is… Rebuy – Yes

david clark’s côte de nuits villages 2010

david clark’s côte de nuits villages 2010

2010 David Clark, Côte de Nuits Villages Medium colour – one might say relatively pale for such a youngster. Quite shy but some pretty red high tones peek through – strawberry. Quite smooth, then the acidity is next in-line before a twist of understated tannin. Clean and tasty with fresh red-fruit flavours. Understated, modest and elegant. Drinks all too quickly… Rebuy – Yes

vaudoisey-creusefond 2010 pommard croix blanche

2010 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard Croix Blanche This started way too unripe and acidic – or so it seemed. I ate something and there seemed better, indeed acceptable balance. The nose is high-toned with occasional flashes of perfect red fruit. Eventually there is some sucrosité to the flavours, despite plenty of acidity – but the acidity coupled to the (admittedly understated) astringency of the tannin is quite mouth-puckering. I can drink it, I can even appreciate it, but I can’t bring myself to recommend it… Rebuy – No

michel noëllat 2010 vosne-romanée

michel noëllat 2010 vosne-romanée

2010 Michel Noëllat, Vosne-Romanée Medium, medium-plus colour. The aromas are of barrel spice and (much fainter) vanilla – there’s just a suggestion of background reduction enhancing the depth of the nose too – whatever all that-lot sounds like, it’s quite appealing. Understated concentration – the acidity slowly wells bringing more fruit-flavour – again accented with vanilla. Very good texture with fine-grained tannin. The overall impression – regardless of all those barrel descriptors – is a wine of sweet succulence and deliciousness! Rebuy – Yes

philippe livera (tilleuls) 2010 gevrey clos village

philippe livera (tilleuls) 2010 gevrey clos village

2010 Philippe Livera (Domaine Tilleuls), Gevrey Chambertin Clos Village Quite deeply coloured. The nose instantly brings one word to mind – wow! Deep, cushioned a little spicy with an espresso top. Despite the significant contribution from the barrels, this is setting high expectations. In the mouth it’s clear that the wine can’t deliver those grand cru expectations, but here is good concentration, a little (okay, quite a lot) astringent tannin and nice, ripe fruit flavour. The acidity is understated and mouth-watering. This is rather barrel-influenced, as you will have gathered, it’s also reasonably structured but it’s also very good. Rebuy – Yes

murat 2010 bourgogne hautes côtes de nuits les herbues

2010 Herve Murat, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Herbues Deep, perfumed nose, probably a few stems here – but very modestly so. In the mouth this is wide and filled with high-toned red fruit – probably a little CO2 to lose given the edge to the texture. There is just a faint astringency to the tannin but it drags across your tongue rather than offering a grain. The fruit in the finish is an unusually direct morello-style cherry edged with a little herb. Very interesting and a wine that I’d definitely buy again. Day two and it has become withdrawn and a little sullen – most of its interest has diminished. Drink-up on day 1! Rebuy – Yes

my 1st christmas card – from la brunelle

my 1st christmas card – from la brunelle

Sent by a friend visiting the owners of La Brunelle on Monday – lucky them!

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