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burgundy 2013 harvest – friday 4th october…

burgundy 2013 harvest – friday 4th october…

Ah, traditional Burgundy – not the cassoulet, but the cassoulet with La Romanée The forecast rain was just a heavy downpour of a few minutes overnight, but the weather front had been delayed, so the morning was a mix of sun and clouds – more like 20° than the 25°C of Thursday. We triaged Beaune Les Cras – some rot to remove – and Volnay Les Lurets (from the lower, villages section) before lunch. Because we were expecting some of the worst grapes of the harvest, a new setup was demanded; under our destemmer was another vibrating table to triage the destemmed grapes, also with an ‘air-blade’ attached so that (based on density) shriveled or unripe grapes that had got through the first triage table [....]

la romanée 2007…

It was the boss’s birthday, so with fellow vendangeurs, we drank to toast his health… 2007 Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée Opened a couple of hours before and left open in a cool place. The wine starts with a big, round panorama of a nose, hints of smoke and spice in quite an 07 kind of way. The palate is linear and crystalline bright, perfect acidity and clarity but rather narrow. The length is very impressive with plenty of dry extract – but not astringent-dry – this is a very silky wine that melts on your tongue. I left the last of the glass a few hours and returned; The nose was deeper but the width attenuated, whereas in the mouth there was more width and [....]

I'm sure we'll get around to these...

burgundy 2013 harvest – thursday 3rd october…

My first time on the new TGV route – indicated 319 km/h towards Dijon – I would lose my car in France even for attempting that! And what a great way to arrive, on a summer-like autumn day of 25°C – definitely t-shirts by the triage table. Of-course the weather overnight (and tomorrow!) is forecast to be very wet, prompting (among others) Dominique Lafon to harvest his Montrachet this afternoon, likewise, Caroline l’Estimé was bringing in her Bâtard-Montrachet. The home domaine has a few whites, and all were completed yesterday, save for a little hailed Corton-Charlemagne – it can wait – the weather from Saturday-onwards is again supposed to be benevolent. But today was the first day of reds at the domaine so time to [....]

all-change in morey st.denis…

all-change in morey st.denis…

Whilst the harvest starts to peak in the village of Morey, it’s all-change for some of its number. David Clark and Kellen Lignier are working their last vintages, doubtless both with a sense of sadness, but for very different reasons. Starting with David Clark; it was clear that he hoped to move up through the crus, eventually ending up with some nice 1er or grand cru land – but after ten years, he still hadn’t broke through the villages-level ‘ceiling’. Add to that a back that wasn’t born to grape-tending and was needing regular physio-sessions, and a pretty lonely existence in Morey, earlier this year David finally decided to sell his domaine. It’s been common knowledge in and around Morey that Yann Charlopin (right, right [....]

Nicolas Rossignol's Clos des Angles

burgundy 2013 harvest – wednesday 2nd october…

Ever get the feeling that you are 1 or 2 days late? Despite a swathe of the Côte de Nuits being untouched, indeed needing at least another week in some areas, I see the pictures of Jadot’s Musigny rolling along the triage table (today…) and can’t help thinking – ‘oops!’ Yesterday some excellent producers in Meursault already finished their harvest – think Javillier and Fichet. Patrick Essa has some lovely millerandes in his Meursaults that have helped bring his sugar levels to something over 13° of potential alcohol. Coche-Dury started picking their Corton-Charlemagne this afternoon, and Dubreuil-Fontaine started picking yesterday. Still there is still plenty to cut in Chassagne and Puligny. A few domaines began harvesting their Beaunes and Pommards in the autumnal foggy mist [....]

warming up for the harvest…

warming up for the harvest…

Well, you have to don’t you(?) One has to keep up you know… 1991 Jaboulet-Vercherre, Echézeaux Seems to have a little more about it than the last bottle, though still a little anonymous – perhaps it’s just a phase… Rebuy – No 1999 Henri & Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Au-Dessus des Malconsorts Deep colour, deep spicy nose – perhaps a little macerating plum in there too – overall, dark-shaded fruit. Lithe but concentrated, lovely impact, subdued tannin but still plenty of mid-palate complexity. This is drinking very well today, very well indeed! Rebuy – Yes 2006 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet This particular bottling, once brilliant, has become rather hit and miss – indeed there are now more misses than hits – it’s time to [....]

burgundy 2013 harvest – monday 30th sept…

burgundy 2013 harvest – monday 30th sept…

Whilst the overwhelming majority of red grapes wait on the vines, the chardonnay cutting is now in full flow; many were the domaines that started at the end of last week, more-so at the weekend, and now practically everyone has started. There is a little to triage in some vineyards, almost nothing in others, interestingly the grapes are far from uniform in size – whilst the average size is relatively small, each bunch seems to have its fair share of canon-balls! The quantity of ‘millerandes’ is helping the potential alcohol levels, if not the potential yields – I’ve seen plenty of musts already with 13°+… Reds will slowly but surely come into focus now – I’m there from Thursday, can’t wait! So-far, at least, the [....]

vincent & denis berthaut’s 1992 fixin

vincent & denis berthaut’s 1992 fixin

A surprisingly nice diversion this wine! 1992 Vincent & Denis Berthaut, Fixin Whilst the wax is broken, and there are signs of seepage through the cork, there’s no trace of oxidation on the nose. The colour remains deep and robust, the nose rather clean. Here is a big chunk of wine, still with plenty of tannin, yet not particularly rustic – impressively so given such an obvious concentration – there’s very well judged acidity too. I have to say that I’m very, very impressed – a wine that transcended my expectations. Rebuy – Yes

bruno clair 2009 msd en la rue de vergy…

bruno clair 2009 msd en la rue de vergy…

2009 Bruno Clair, Morey St.Denis En la rue de Vergy Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose dovetails hints of cream with wide, fresh red fruit notes, eventually it becomes a little floral and has lovely detail too – nice! Fresh, intense, but with tannin that seems to grow from the core – never overwhelming, but with just a little rasp of texture. The finish is about subdued but fresh fruit. Cleanly presented wine, and with plenty of stuffing too. Good now despite the hairy forearms – yum! Rebuy – Yes

les bunches à la facebooq…

les bunches à la facebooq…

A warm week – it’s started with 22-23° but could be over 30°C by the weekend – but there’s a tricky storm forecast to get through on Thursday… William Fevre will start picking on Thursday, same as many in Cote de Beaune. Other Chablis growers more likely next week — Jasper Morris (@justjasper) September 24, 2013 Although they are in a minority, things are starting to get serious now; Olivier Lamy has already picked his first vineyard, and Patrick Javillier will also start now for some vines. As Jasper notes (above) many white wine producers will start before the week is out, though many wait, still assembling their pickers, chewing the cud – or making sugar readings. But many are also building up their arsenal [....]

official 2012 burgundy harvest volumes – ouch!

Update time, and oohh! what a lot of typing… Anyway some shocking reading herein when you look at the (lack of!) volumes harvested in 2012 – mainly, but not entirely, in the Côte de Beaune. Unfortunately, my page-width doesn’t allow sight of the 2009 harvest volumes which are generally much higher than those now displayed, and just to note that the 5-year average continues to plummet… Of-course all the figures are quoted courtesy of the BIVB…

chartron’s 2011 puligny-montrachet…

chartron’s 2011 puligny-montrachet…

A wine! Yes, it’s been over 2 weeks, and I’m still not on perfect form, but good enough to appreciate this one! 2011 Jean Chartron, Puligny-Montrachet Medium golden-yellow. My nose isn’t 100%, but this seems clean-cut and minerally. In the mouth this is a bit of a joy – particularly if you’ve had a forced abstinence! Acid-led intensity, very good minerality and lovely balance. It seems more about stones than fruit today, and was absolutely relished! Rebuy – Yes

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