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billn

two mischievous mountain bottles…

two mischievous mountain bottles…

2006 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet Medium yellow. Here is a wine that is out of sorts, or compromised by the cork – it has a slightly odd nose, redolent of the cork itself, but not TCA, more a savoury note. The wine is drinkable but seems tired, the acidity is not its usual self either – just a bit of harshness creeping in there. Drinkable, but as noted, compromised. Rebuy – No 2007 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets Medium lemon yellow. The nose is tight, faintly chalky and with a tight core of ripe yellow fruit. That could be a concise description of the flavour too; a rather tight, mineral wine but with very fine mid-palate intensity – I liked it! Certainly it [....]

two pre-mountain bottles…

two pre-mountain bottles…

Drunk before heading to the mountains: the first wine was to commiserate with the vignerons of Savigny – I saw pictures of Lavières vines that would deliver no harvest – hopefully some owners fared better… The second bottle was one that started a little tight but really improved with time… 2006 Chenu Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières Medium, bright colour. The nose mixes earth, red fruits and plenty of charm. Just a lovely balance in the mouth – reminds me of the clarity of many 2010s but in a medium-bodied, very elegant and well-polished package. Just a treat! Rebuy – Yes 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Beaune Much deeper coloured. The nose starts with depth but limited width – a couple of hours are needed for a cheeky, [....]

more mountains…

more mountains…

Back again – eventually I may write something about wine, but as a ‘warm-up’ I’ll add a couple(!) of higher altitude pics…

louis max 2011 mercurey clos la marche

Well, the white was just so good, there was nothing stopping me here – perhaps there should have been! 2011 Louis Max, Mercurey Clos la Marche Medium, bright red colour, edged with salmon pink. It seems that its southern geography was not enough save this wine from a little pyrazine; it starts, seemingly, with none before slowly growing in the glass to at least a P2 level; to start with, there were other aromas, but by now they are hidden from me. In the mouth this is relatively lite but it’s also lithe and concertedly insinuates nice flavours that leech from your gums and tongue – it’s good acidity too. There seems to be much going for this until I finally get some pyrazine flavour [....]

cool in the snow…

cool in the snow…

Actually it was still pretty warm at nearly 2800 metres! Just a few snaps from Sunday/Monday…

louis max 2010 mercurey les caudroyes

louis max 2010 mercurey les caudroyes

2010 Louis Max, Mercurey Les Caudroyes (Blanc) A wine that instantly surprises me. The nose is fine, ripe enough but maybe just a hint saline too. In the mouth there’s a core of ripe fruit but it’s long and tight in shape rather than fat and round, the acidity is also a fine foil to good mid-palate intensity. Blind I would have no doubt in pronouncing this to be a good 2 year-old 1er Cru Chablis – I never said I was a great blind taster/guesser A wine enjoyed all the more for its excellent value. Rebuy – Yes

more hail in the côte de beaune…

I just got off the phone with a grower in Beaune – I’d called to get a bit more information on the flavenscence d’orée insecticide spraying ‘story’ – in the background I could still hear the remnants of the thunder-storm. The temperature was now just 18°C – 1 hour ago it had been well over 30°C – that was before the storm hit. Like last year, hail has ripped through the vines from Volnay to Savigny; further south I’ve no info yet; further north, the Côte de Nuits experienced only about 1mm of rain and no hail. I’m not sure where the border lay – was it Savigny or Corton? – we’ll know later… The grower said he called somebody in the vineyards, and the [....]

chézeaux gevrey-chambertin les cazetiers

chézeaux gevrey-chambertin les cazetiers

A textbook example of the style of the Fixin Berthauts – who are the metayeurs here – super! 2010 des Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers The nose is finely detailed, just a hint of flowers too over darker fruit. In the mouth this is a perfectly balanced middle-weight; flowing acidity and delicate fruit whose complexity grows in the mid-palate. Lingering and elegant in the finish. The last drops in glass offer a beautiful high-toned red-currant. This bottle simply wasn’t big enough! Rebuy – Yes

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne tête du clos

After yesterday’s Les Vergers I decided I was on a run… 2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Tête du Clos (Blanc) The nose is more pungent, Chassagne-style herbs, it seems brooding and quite powerful – normally a description of a red! In the mouth this is quite a ride; power and almost an element of tannin – it really reminds me of a hairy-chested red Chassagne – yet the flavours are of a white wine, and the acid balance is lovely. Maybe a hint of CO2 was contributing to that tannin-like texture – but anyway, a wine to wait for, while you drink the Les Vergers! Rebuy – Maybe

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne les vergers

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne les vergers

2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers (Blanc) Like a sword, a well-balanced sword, sharp, thrusting and wielded with power. Okay enough of that, but this wine was really winner, with its minerality ande a certain tension. Simply lovely! Rebuy – Yes

lessons in luzerne…

lessons in luzerne…

What a beautiful night on Saturday in Luzerne! Great company and food, excellent wines – all blind – sat outside in the shadow of Pilatus. To start, two whites: The first was ripe and had both depth and concentration – a little fat to the texture too. The second was simply beautiful; a deeper shade but still lemon yellow, beautifully floral and with a grace, balance and depth that could only be grand cru – I would guess a good 2006 grand cru. A lesson – expect the unexpected! The identity of the first wine was Dauvisat’s 2002 Cablis 1er Vaillons, we were all shocked by the second wine, because it was a 2003, yet such a wonderful 2003 from Chassagne’s Blanchot Dessus, admittedly sitting [....]

updates form the côtes…

updates form the côtes…

That was a nice view on the in-car map! The weather in the Côtes has been just about perfect so-far in July – and the forecast is more of the same for at least the rest of the month. Temperatures have been late 20s / early 30s °C, but with a dry breeze, so there is virtually no disease pressure, just isolated instances of a little mildew but without the conditions for it to spread. There are plenty of bunches on the vines but coulure is causing problems for pinot noir – mainly, but not only, in the Côte de Nuits where flowering was a few days later. Some vines will again deliver low yields because of this, but generally there is optimism for both [....]

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