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billn

verget’s 2011 meursault les clous…

verget’s 2011 meursault les clous…

2011 Verget, Meursault Les Clous What a brilliant wine! The nose is of ginger-cake and nougat – but with plenty of freshness – nice! Lithe and mineral, indeed I’d say muscular too – this wine is doing a great impression of a premier cru. Despite all those muscles and rocks, it’s a pretty wine too. Yum – be warned – the glass empties very quickly! Rebuy – Yes

pierre amiot’s 2011 gevrey les combottes…

pierre amiot’s 2011 gevrey les combottes…

2011 Pierre Amiot et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er, Les Combottes Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose begins very impressively – concentrated dark red fruit that’s more redcurrant than cherry – just joyous. I really should have drunk faster because after about 20 minutes there was a clear P note at centre-stage. What was unctuous and lovely on the palate became a little more spiky and gradually less appealing as the P note on the nose grew, eventually it was discernible on the palate too. What a shame! I suggest you get 6-8 friends together and pour each a glass – the bottle will be gone in 15 minutes, and you will have all loved this! The last half of this bottle seemed to do an amazing turnaround; [....]

the return of côtes de dijon?

Here And maybe more here.

Volnay Clos de la Chapelle, Philippe Remoissenet (2012)

Volnay Clos de la Chapelle, Philippe Remoissenet (2012)

As far as I can tell, this book is self-published. You can buy it from Athenaeum in Beaune. Philippe Remoissenet, together with Canadian, Mark O’Connell, bought the monopole 1er cru Volnay vineyard of Clos de la Chapelle from Louis Boillot in 2011 – it seemed that his children had no wish to continue as wine-producers – did they have prior warning of the 2012 and 2013’s hail? I bought this book during the 2013 harvest, and for tired eyes, its many short chapters, crammed into less than 100 pages, was exactly what I needed before drifting off to sleep each night. I only returned to it this month, finishing the last 1/3rd of the book in double-quick time. Remoissenet and O’Connell have entrusted the vines [....]

buisson-charles 2011 meursault tessons…

buisson-charles 2011 meursault tessons…

2011 Buisson-Charles, Meursault Les Tessons Medium-pale colour. Fresh, obviously Meursault aromatics – a little diffuse though. To start with there’s a barely perceptible level of dissolved CO2 but it’s enough to render the wine just a little unfocused and certainly contributes to the diffuse nose. I double-decanted, left it in the fridge, and returned 2 hours later. A big change! The nose and palate are more focused and the texture is definitely smoother – now it’s a much more ‘together’ wine. The acidity isn’t super intense but keeps the wine plenty fresh, and it has a sweet citrus bite to it. Decanting really made the difference between an ‘okay’ wine and a very good wine! Like many, 2011s the cut and intensity of 2010 is [....]

3 weekend reds, all from 2011…

3 weekend reds, all from 2011…

2011 Philippe Livera, Côte de Nuits Villages Pound for pound, the 2010 of this wine was simply magnificent. This is almost equally deep-coloured, amazing for a 2011. The nose starts with hint of reduction, so I double decanted – 30 minutes later the wine is cleaned of that note, unfortunately a P note is starting to take its place – that’s a big shame, as this wine didn’t show the note from barrel – but there’s plenty of innate density about the nose too, mixing oak and a hint of musk. Width in the mouth and really good, balanced, concentration for this label. The P is sufficient to be a flavour component too. For all that, this wine drank very easily today… Rebuy – No [....]

dinner-time surprises…

dinner-time surprises…

A trip to Germany this week, brought a wealth of wine riches. The following were tasted blind with dinner and each was unveiled only after writing my notes: 2004 Romanée-Conti, La Tâche A beautiful floral nose with an obvious whole cluster character. There is good width on the palate and pretty fruit flavours. There seems plenty of acidity in the mid-palate though despite that, not that special energy or dimension, but clearly a very classy wine. Rebuy – Yes 2004 Romanée-Conti, Romanée St.Vivant This nose has darker, deeper fruit and is less padded-out with whole cluster character – but there is still some. In the mouth this is lithe and beautifully proportioned – better tonight than the last wine due to more concentration, muscle, dimension [....]

syndicat de gevrey-chambertin tasting

syndicat de gevrey-chambertin tasting

14th November… I have to say, that moving this from Beaune to Gevrey was a great success. More tasters and more wines – actually too many for this taster, I gave up after 100, with two tables of GCs still to go – I needed a shower before dinner, that was my excuse anyway! Really great to see so many producers participating in the dinner in the evening too. Great stuff! For those with an interest; the Hotel Deux Chevres was a great find, literally 50 metres from the ‘Espace Chambertin’ tasting, with fine views over the Gevrey Clos des Meixvelle. It’s not particularly cheap, unless you factor-in the cost of taxis to and from(?), or losing your driving licence – but you get what [....]

françois carillon’s 2011 puligny…

françois carillon’s 2011 puligny…

I really don’t know too much about how the two brothers have variously split up what was once, one of the finest addresses in Puligny – It/they didn’t appear in my book for the simple reason that whatever had been newly set-up had no track record at all. But this wine is a very tasty start, hopefully there will be many more good bottles to follow… 2011 François Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet Nutty, floral – very pretty aromas. In the mouth there’s a little oak as back-drop to lovely, insinuating acidity and pretty, pretty sweet fruit. Short and sweet – nice wine. Rebuy – Yes

weekend bottles…

weekend bottles…

Friends over for the weekend, so an extra couple of bottles: 2011 Domaine Masse Père et Fils, Givry 1er Champ Lalot – am ashamed to say that we drink this quickly and easily – it really supports that process I noted no P, just a wine of balance and ease – pretty enough! The 2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Volnay – my main question here, is – is the nose getting a bit volatile, or is it just a variation on the Volnay flower(?) Whatever, silky, sinuous, concentrated – without it ever taking its coat off and dancing. Über Kompetent wine… The 1995 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts – right from opening, the nose was a lovely depth of spiced plums, the palate need time to [....]

prisoners!

We are all inevitably prisoners of our history and experience…

…un patrimoine millélaire exceptionnel…

It seems that the new book about the climats of the Côte d’Or is launched… “Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne, un Patrimoine millélaire exceptionnel”, paru aux éditions Génat Dedication. Beautiful new book about Climats of Burgundy. Humility, humanity, history. As the auction ends. pic.twitter.com/0RQys4sgqD — amanda regan (@amantduvin) November 17, 2013

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