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billn

2008 maison romaine’s corton perrières…

2008 Maison Romaine, Corton Les Perrières Maison Romain is a side-line label for one man and his horse; the pair occasionally manage to get paid in grapes for ploughing between the vines, rather than in hard cash. The wine-making approach has been described to me as ‘natural’, and in this case at least, I would say very successfully-so… This wine offers up a a healthy whiff of stems but I have to say that they are very pretty stems – this is rather perfumed – and with a lovely red fruit underpinning too. I really like it! Mouth-filling flavours are edged with a slightly salty note and there’s a fine but far from bright acidity that’s coupled with very good length. This is very nice [....]

it’s called the paulée…

it’s called the paulée…

I should mention that the food was rather good too!

enough grapes…(?)

enough grapes…(?)

A get-away-from-all-the-grapes:

seguin-manuel grows…

seguin-manuel grows…

Domaine Seguin-Manuel gets a toehold in the Côte de Nuits Domaine Seguin-Manuel takes over a 1,8-hectare vineyard in Vosne-Romanée « Aux Communes ». Hand harvested on October 3-4, the grapes coming from these old vines are showing a high quality potential. The estate now covers a total area of 8,5 hectares. Initially located in Savigny-lès-Beaune, Domaine Seguin-Manuel has been farming several new plots in Beaune, Pommard, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet since its acquisition by Thibaut Marion in 2004. In the process of certification, all the vineyards are organically grown. « This new plot in Vosne-Romanée makes it possible for us to get a toehold in an iconic village of the Côte de Nuits. It contributes to the control of our supplies of sought-after appellations wines and [....]

01-Day 5 Gevrey La Justice grapes in case on back of porters carrying frame

a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part cinq)

burgundy 2013 harvest – thursday 10th october…

burgundy 2013 harvest – thursday 10th october…

One week’s work! After finishing last night, we tasted the juice from the Corton-Charlemagne we triaged on Tuesday – dark golden, almost viscous and really quite lovely for sweet grape juice An average ex-domaine price for Corton-Charlemagne is ~€50 (without tax) so the domaine would have to increase its price to €250 to make the normal return – it’s not going to happen is it…(?) Then we visited another producer who was just beginning to add a ‘traditional’ 0.5%. I thought it quite funny that it should be unrefined ‘organic’ sugar – but why not I left Beaune this evening as I arrived 8 days ago – bathed in sunlight – that was rather improbable given how the day started. Sometime before 6:00am there was [....]

burgundy 2013 harvest – wednesday 9th october…

burgundy 2013 harvest – wednesday 9th october…

An antidote to all those perfect Facebook bunches that take so long to find. NB. The views expressed here are not necessarily those of the Domaine We are building up to a crescendo of action here, and it’s hard to believe I’ve been here a week already – tomorrow will be my last day… We started with more Vosne-Romanée villages this morning – the same, pretty fruit as yesterday – I pulled out an extra case of whole clusters so, overall we did 1/3 of the cuvée with stems – lovely, fruit and really tasty. Next was some Lavaux St.Jacques; times are getting harder and harder – despite expecting enough fruit for three barrels, we got barely enough for two. Some new negociants are actually [....]

burgundy 2013 harvest – tuesday 8th october…

burgundy 2013 harvest – tuesday 8th october…

The day started with the pickers in Corton-Charlemagne – 07:30 sharp! This plot had seen plenty of hail, though there was mercifully something still left on the vines. Quantifying ‘something’ is less fun though; this plot normally delivers about 5 barrels, today there’s been enough picked for about 1 barrel – and we still had to do triage at the home domaine. Although the grapes looked scruffy, the advantage of whites is that the skins are in contact with the juice for only a couple of hours (+/-) so we concentrated on removing obvious chunks of rot – actually not that much – and picking out the small dried grapes that will do nothing in the press. As you can see from the image below, [....]

Maranges 1er Croix aux Moines - just great!

burgundy 2013 harvest – monday 7th october…

I know that Dujac were bringing in their Gevrey-Combottes and Bonnes-Mares today, and saw Bonneau du Martray bringing in their pinot noir yesterday – we had originally planned no grapes in the morning, but given the optimistic weather forecast at the weekend, even the afternoon’s grapes were put back one day – now the forecast is steadily colder and maybe sleet on Thursday / Friday – oops! We have very busy days Tuesday-Thursday – hopefully we will get it all done – but with some late nights I expect! Today we tasted the 2012s in the cellar and made a tour of some still to be picked appellations. No grapes meant I could take stock of what we have in the cuverie so-far: The maturities [....]

burgundy 2013 harvest – sunday 6th october…

burgundy 2013 harvest – sunday 6th october…

Well despite the last clear hours of the day on Saturday, Sunday morning was grey, with a little drizzle. Sunday was a day without grapes for the home domaine, so I’d planned for a group of us to go to Hotel Montrachet for breakfast – simply the best surroundings, food and price in the Côte d’Or for breakfast I think – unfortunately a couple of our number had to work (poor Mark de Morey and Jon Wyand…). Still, David Clark joined me and two (high class) stageurs for a leisurely, almost brunch (by the time we finished!). David hasn’t yet harvested what were his grapes in Morey and Vosne, but will be helping Yann Charlopin in the next days. Post-brunch we made a 2CV tour [....]

I could sing… (burgundy harvest 2013 – saturday 5th october)

I could sing… (burgundy harvest 2013 – saturday 5th october)

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Crais – okay, if I was being picky, the chardonnay grapes are a little large In the last 24 hours I did three things I’d never done before (well, almost never…!) I ate a burger and chips approaching midnight after Friday’s late harvest finish, then today I had a nutella-filled doughnut for dessert (maybe the French description is more ‘come hither…’), and finally today, I triaged Gevrey villages grapes that would put most grand crus to shame – just lovely stuff – after the trudge of hard triage yesterday, I could almost sing! Given the previous (late) evening’s culinary exploits, I chose to start the day with a run to Pommard and back; it was lightly, but incessantly raining, probably not a lot [....]

tough times in burgundy…

Here.

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