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fevre 2001 chablis les clos…

fevre 2001 chablis les clos…

The last from another case of 2001s; also another that has delivered from 12/12 bottles. 2001 Fevre, Chablis Les Clos Medium-plus lemon yellow. Pungent aromas of fruit and stones – I honestly can’t say that it’s offereing more than intermediate-age aromas – there’s no sense of maturity. Like the nose, pungent is not a bad word to describe the intensity and weight of punch taht the flavours deliver. Balanced, good acidity and great presence. I remember buying these for 35 Swiss Francs each – you can’t get a half-bottle for that now. Still every one has been enjoyed; super wine. Rebuy – Yes

méo-camuzet 2001 clos st.philibert…

méo-camuzet 2001 clos st.philibert…

Note: The picture at the top of the page – this week – is the Clos St.Philibert, looking down on Vosne below… 2001 Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos St.Philibert What a great wine both this and the 2000 have been – this is my last bottle and all have performed well. Medium-plus golden, the nose has hints of butterscotch and the faintest whiff of oxidation – but in an interesting rather than overt way. The palate remains smooth though there’s a suggestion that the acidity is starting to take hold, but for now it just helps to push the finish a little longer and with a very understated mouth-watering edge. This wine is still giving plenty – for sure it’s completely mature, but [....]

2008 dubreuil-fontaine, pommard 1er epenots

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pommard 1er Epenots Medium, medium plus colour. The nose starts dense and unyielding; I had to wait about 2 hours before enjoyment set in, that enjoyment in the form of joyous red cherry, accented with raisins and violet flowers – yum. Very understated tannin but smooth of texture and then a super growth of concentration and intensity in the mid-palate – yet just a hint lean. This is a very good wine, but I thought the bottle I tasted at the domaine better. Rebuy – Yes

jean-noel gagnard 2008 santenay 1er clos tavannes

jean-noel gagnard 2008 santenay 1er clos tavannes

2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Santenay 1er Clos de Tavannes Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a cool yet welcoming range of fruit aromas, perhaps topped with faint violets. Very good flavour that seems quite wide and, with it, a very good persistence. The balance here is just about perfect (for me), tannins only showing themselves if you chew. Lovely wine. As a direct comparison, and as drinkable as this wine is, it falls short of the intensity of the Montrevenots earlier in the week, by comparison seeming more dilute – that doesn’t mean that I like it any less – the aromas improve all the time and are quite a match for the Beaune. Rebuy – Yes

encore une fois…

Another Gambal Bourgogne Blanc 2008 yesterday – that’s more than a case and a half of super, supple drinking. But I’ll soon be on the lookout for a new house-wine for this year I think – I have a candidate firts bottles arriving at the end of next month…

dubreuil-fontaine 2008 beaune 1er montrevenots…

dubreuil-fontaine 2008 beaune 1er montrevenots…

You might notice a few names cropping up, time and again in the next days, reviewing purchases in the Côtes from last week. I think a few of us bought this wine – what a good start! 2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Beaune 1er Montrevenots Medium colour. The nose starts tight but over twenty minutes opens to show pungent raspberry and beautifully detailed redcurrants; swirl and an impression of licorice raises itself from the depths. There’s no getting away from a certain freshness that this wine delivers, but it’s not just acidity; it seems to be coupled with a sorbet-like impression of red fruits. Little obvious tannin but a mouth-watering finish. At it’s best over the summer before the ‘padding’ fades? Let’s see! After one hour the raspberry [....]

offer of the day – Domaine de l’Arlot 2009…

It must be the season! Equivalent 2008 prices in brackets for comparison. DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT 2009 – Nuits-St-Georges NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Le Petit Arlot 75cl 42.00 (Swiss Francs) (39.50) NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Clos de l’Arlot 75cl 69.50 (68.00) NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 75cl 69.50 (68.00) VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Suchots 75cl 99.00 (84.00) ROMANEE SAINT VIVANT 75cl 299.00 (248.00) I guess, given the increase, that Les Suchots is also becoming a trophy wine, that or the market won’t stand similar increases for Nuits St.Georges – effectively the Nuits pricing is close to unchanged – but then I thought 08 too expensive. This remans a domaine whose wines I enjoy but only ocasionally as the stems can be a bit aggressive young; 3-5 years down the line and they are [....]

2008 jean-noel gagnard chassagne 1er blanchot dessus

2008 jean-noel gagnard chassagne 1er blanchot dessus

Just before bottling I had a slight preference for this over the Caillerets of the other day, and much as I still think ‘yum’ I’ve now reversed my preference! This is a wine that stands apart in the JN-G range; although ‘in’ Chassagne it is the least Chassagne-like wine that they have – perhaps because it is next door to Le Montrachet…! 2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchot Dessus Medium lemon yellow. The nose is clean and gives-up a line of bright, ripe yellow fruit; like the Caillerets accented with faint creamy vanilla – though perhaps with less to hold the attention and saying little to me of Chassagne. Slightly fat texture but with very good acidity bubbling below – it’s certainly richer than the [....]

henri jouan 2008 gevery aux echézeaux

henri jouan 2008 gevery aux echézeaux

I cannot take credit for this ‘find’; it was Ray Walker of Maison Ilan who gave me the tip – he’s already bought a few cases. So will I, I think, perhaps a visit too next month if possible! 2008 Henri Jouan, Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes Medium colour. First there’s a hint of musky vanilla going on; as the vanilla fades to the background there a more higher-toned, almost floral aroma; finally there is a beautifully precise red berry note – who needs to drink? Clean, with a slighly cushioned texture, fine acity that enables a long line into the finish. You’ve got to search hard to find the tannin. Fresh but not overly so, this is a perfectly fresh berry for plucking right [....]

dubreuil-fontaine 2008 pernand 1er clos berthet

dubreuil-fontaine 2008 pernand 1er clos berthet

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet The aromas are generous and all-enveloping – quite lovely. There is roundness and an acid-borne intensity that is perfectly balanced. Mouth-watering flavours linger in a good finish. Generous yet mineral, this is drinking perfectly right now – now how to keep my hands off more? Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – olivier bernstein…

OLIVIER BERNSTEIN 2009 – BURGUNDY VILLAGE GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 69.00 (Swiss francs) PREMIERS CRUS CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES LAVROTTES 2009 75cl 129.00 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CHAMPEAUX 2009 75cl 129.00 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CAZETIERS 2009 75cl 119.00 GRANDS CRUS CLOS DE LA ROCHE 2009 75cl 298.00 MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 345.00 BONNES-MARES 2009 75cl 345.00 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 2009 75cl 398.00 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 2009 75cl 168.00 Grands Crus are sold only together with Village or Premiers Crus – apparently. Aspirational pricing that loses the soul of the place in my opinion – it gives the impression of somebody more focused on cash than place I’m afraid to say (is it him or his importers?). I think a fair question is ‘why would you pay twice the price for a Clos [....]

jean-noel gagnard 2008 chassagne caillerets

Quite the nicest young white wine I can remember drinking at home – in ages! 2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is crystal clear and accented with faint creamy vanilla – very absorbing. Gorgeous balance with an intense core of mineral and fruit that lingers long in the finish. This wine is taking over the evening with a vituoso performance. Lovely Rebuy – Yes

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