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wines of their vintages…

wines of their vintages…

Been busy the last days but there’s still chance to look back at a few bottles, all of them showing their vintage roots. The Morey has the ripeness of the vintage but the acidity is good enough – I didn’t think the remnants of day two as good though. The Liger-Belair also bears the mark of its vintage, but that’s a different mark. Left open overnight, I was able to drink it on day two. The Corton, despite its 1997 vintage, still has that tight central core that is equally central to the wines of the hill, you could probably guess the vintage from the slightly diffuse chocolatey aromatics but there’s still enough material in the mouth to make old bones. A couple of stories [....]

ponsot/chézeaux 2008 clos st.denis tvv…

ponsot/chézeaux 2008 clos st.denis tvv…

I decided I’d had enough of that old wine – time for some good new stuff 2008 des Chézeaux (Ponsot), Clos St.Denis Très Vieilles Vignes Ardea sealed and these things are frankly a pain in the arse to remove. Medium-plus purple-rimmed colour. The nose starts dense and unyielding but very quickly develops a dark macerating fruit aroma, then slowly evolves, adding dimension with beautiful high-toned berries – they take on an exquisite almost jellied dimension. I think I am in the presence of greatness – but before getting carried away, let’s taste. Silky, but it’s pure sinew and muscle, there’s not an ounce of fat. There is plenty of acidity but the flavours it helps introduce are incredibly intense and long lasting – those flavours [....]

félix clerget volnay le crot martin 1972

félix clerget volnay le crot martin 1972

1972 Félix Clerget, Volnay Crot Martin Medium-pale, there’s a core of bright red colour but it’s more like old mahogany at the rim. Deep, slightly dark aromas of clean soil and baked red fruit, eventually there’s a nice, quite young acid cherry. This is very silky and shows lovely acidity. The broad mid-palate flavours are sweet enough and for some reason remind me of the complexity of old Maderia, but interestingly without any overt flavours (or aromas) that indicate oxidation. Slowly the finishing flavours develop a raisin character. I must say, this bottle performed well-beyond my modest (40 year-old villages) expectation. Very good. Rebuy – No Chance!

2008 seigneurs de bligny gevrey 1er craipillots

2008 seigneurs de bligny gevrey 1er craipillots

2008 Seigneurs de Bligny, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Craipillots Medium, medium-plus purple-edged colour. The aromas have a musky depth though the core of fruit shines through, above is a higher tone of faint cedar. Precociously sweet fruit has a little bitter tannin to balance, and balance it does. The acidity is very well judged too. Slowly mouth-watering in the good and mineral finish. Medium density but more than medium interest, I have to say it’s much nicer than I expected. Rebuy – Yes

1985 guillemard-dupont et fils pommard

Seems we were ‘lucky’ to leave France on Saturday, perhaps a day or two later and we would have been stuck there without ‘juice’ for the car. Still, there would be worse places ‘(eh, dear reader?)’ 1985 Guillemard-Dupont et Fils, Pommard Medium colour with a touch of orange about it. The nose has width, if not depth, and showcases sweetly baked red fruit tarts. In the mouth this is very smooth though if you really search you might come up with a suggestion of tannin near the finish. The fruit in the mouth is also sweet and it’s quite enough to offset a slightly tart impression given by the acidity. This is mature and very drinkable – not significantly complex, but that’s the why its [....]

fourrier griotte-chambertin 2004

It’s a shame that you no-longer see tasting notes for wines such as these. In former, more affordable days these bottles were often fun for various get-togethers, nowadays they much more often left in the cellar… 2004 Fourrier, Griotte-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with plenty of mushroom rather than the customary reduction, actually with swirling the reduction does make an appearance – a wine that needs a little air. Air dissolves the mushrooms and delivers a lovely pure red berry note, though this is also a transition to deeper, slightly darker red fruit aromas – rather primary though, as is the Griotte fashon. The well-padded palate starts quite silky though there is some bitterness to the finish, that said it’s in a [....]

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #last(?)

mark de morey – burgundy harvest diary #last(?)

Jumping ahead of myself but ‘inspired’ by Bill’s recent excellent photos, here’s 3 taken on the morning of taking my sad leave of Morey-St-Denis. Taken over the wall from Arlaud’s entrance for the first 2, and from the wall at the top of the car park for the bar/boulangerie, these were taken about 7.30 a.m. as the sun came up over the eastern horizon. The orange glow infused the walls of the village in a lovely way. Enjoy !

rain, rain, go away & ponnelle 1983…

rain, rain, go away & ponnelle 1983…

The weather had to change (of-course) and on Saturday we awoke to precipitation – the camera is not likely to be exercised. Still, I have a tasting in Volnay at 10am and another in Savigny at 3:15 – not bad for a Saturday – sandwiched in-between is a lunch in the café of Puligny and a quick scoot around the bookshop in Beaune. After a week of eating and tasting, a simple plate of cheese on toast is perfect for the last hours at home – the ’83 Nuits is also not too bad! This is now a monopole of Prieuré-Roch and I note was imported into Switzerland by (possibly still) the most important Swiss merchant – well, they distribute DRC anyway! 1983 Pierre Ponnelle, [....]

chassagne and a little ‘paulée’

chassagne and a little ‘paulée’

Friday. The last day of (almost) sun in the côtes – it was a little misty, but dry. I can’t ever remember walking through the vines in September in ‘normal’ shoes – the ground was so dry. Lots of work was being done replacing old/dead vines and even a bit of ploughing here and there before the rain that was forecast for the weekend. The pictures that follow are mainly from around and in the Clos St.Jean (1er) in Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s not every autumn that the chardonnay and pinot vines are so well delineated in the vineyard – and yes, the red ones are the pinot! The evening was a mini-paulée of sorts. This week saw the conclusion of the harvest for the home team [....]

a puligny promenade

a puligny promenade

Pics taken on Thursday…

a few more pics – beaune and chassagne

a few more pics – beaune and chassagne

The indian summer continues. A few more pics here from Beaune (mainly) with a couple thrown in from Chassagne-Montrachet. Two different Montrachets today

a day in meursault plus a two-faced volnay…

a day in meursault plus a two-faced volnay…

It’s clearly an indian summer in the côtes – and we really have something of the golden hillside as a backdrop. Three lovely visits yesterday, three more today and four appointments each on Thursday and Friday. I thnk I have just the one appointment on Saturday – that should be enough as ‘part recovery’ – when I visit Thomas Bouley. I’ll be able to ask him about the following… 2007 Jean-Marc Bouley, Volnay Clos de la Cave This is a wine that changed so much over 30 minutes that it almost requires two tasting notes. Drunk over a dinner in the Ermtage de Corton. It started medium colour and with quite a stemmy and not particularly attractive nose. The palate was a little lightweight and [....]

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