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(getting warmer)

“Burgundy has got bigger and riper,” wine writer Robert Joseph told Reuters. “Alsace, in North East France, which used to make very light red wine, now makes much fuller red wine. Germany which used to very light red wine, is now making fuller red wine.” Here…

2005 drouhin beaune 1er clos des mouches blanc

2005 drouhin beaune 1er clos des mouches blanc

[QPR (or the quality versus price paid ratio) is something I consider is often overlooked by the chain of hands that deliver bottles into the market, clearly it's an important factor for the people at the end of that chain of-course. This diary entry started as a note on a single bottle with a great reputation, but a spiralling (upwards) price-point. It was good, but maybe not THAT good - I was forced to pull out a benchmark to compare...] I often wonder who buys this Drouhin wine, particularly 2005 vintage onwards, it really is priced very high (for a Beaune 1er), like a Corton-Charlemange and more than most Puligny 1ers. I should occasionally step outside my fiscal comfort-zone to investigate, so here’s the ridiculously [....]

modest saturday lunchtime bottles…

modest saturday lunchtime bottles…

It’s a while since I met up with Marc, so we decided to open a couple of ‘lunchtime’ bottles together. I started at 7:30am by slowly easing out the cork from a 1972 Domaine du Clos Frantin Grands-Echézeaux – it smelled mighty fine. I popped in a stopper and then left it in a cool place for lunchtime. Marc’s approach was different, but just as effective: the 2005 Bouchard Pere Clos de Bèze was simply popped and poured. 80% of the way through the proceedings Marc suggested an interesting counterpoint – a 2004 Schubert Block B NZ pinot noir from the Wairapara. 1972 Clos Frantin, Grands-Echézeaux A slightly porty fruit quickly, but not entirely gives way to beef, almonds, width and warmth – impressive and [....]

2008 jadot bourgogne chardonnay

2008 jadot bourgogne chardonnay

I already pcked my ‘house white‘ for 2010, but this is close in quality yet with a big advantage – it’s 60% of the cost. Hmm, next year could be tough! 2008 Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Chardonnay This starts with that faintly sherbet note you often find on wines with less punch from the more marginal villages – think St.Romain. There’s a little faint oak note note that helps fill-out the aromas at the bottom and eventually a much more favourable core of yellow fruit. Above average intensity for the label, very fine acidity – then a surprise – a deep and clear extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate; a little wood-derived vanilla cream; it’s a warm, Côte de Beaune type of flavour that would [....]

fourrier 2001 vougeot 1er les petits vougeots

fourrier 2001 vougeot 1er les petits vougeots

There are plenty of reports, predominantly from the US, that Fourrier’s 2001s have their problems – in particular they seem to becoming more and more volatile. Well here’s one that I anyway didn’t like when I first tasted it (way back in 2004). But that bottle was reductive in character, rather than volatile – this (surprisingly), turned out rather nice… 2001 Fourrier, Vougeot 1er Les Petits Vougeots Vieilles Vignes Medium ruby-red colour, still a hint of cherry-red. There’s a little herb and an undercurrent of red fruit – everything is quite tidy. In the mouth this is barely medium-bodied, very slightly acid-forward (but that’s its age) but smooth overall. A little tight, but not unrewarding. Actually far better than my first bottle of this some [....]

2003 marc colin st.aubin 1er en remilly

A surprisingly drinkable wine, if in a vintage style that doesn’t appeal (to me…) 2003 Marc Colin, St.Aubin 1er en Remilly Medium-plus golden colour. The nose is slightly tropical, and certainly ripe. In the mouth there is a roundness of shape and okay acidity – the mid-palate flavour has a good extra dimension that goes long in the finish. Just missing a little energy, but smuch better than I expected! Rebuy – No

1995 dujac morey st.denis

Ignoring for a second 2004, 1995 is the red vintage from recent memory that disappoints me the most – this wine is something of a poster-child for the vintage – it’s just not as good now as it was 5 years ago. The slightly hard personality is becoming more and more reminiscent of the 1994 vintage. Plenty of time left for an improvement I suppose… 1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis Medium ruby-red colour with a faint browning at the rim. The nose is sweet and rather stemmy, there’s a faint beefy note that has me flirting with the notion of brett, and some mixed herbs. In the mouth the wine starts narrow, slowly opening over tongue. The acidity is a little sharp and metallic in flavour, [....]

in the côtes…

in the côtes…

I’m just back from burgundy, and I have to say, with a stinking cold – no wines for me in the next days. Also not so picturesque while I was there – too much mist. Still I have a few things in my notebook to fill in the gap PS – anybody ever heard of these? :

2006 bouchard père monthélie 1er clos les champs fulliot

Not that cheap, but a very good wine: 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Monthélie 1er Clos les Champs Fulliot This is a ‘domaine’ wine. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. There’s width and interest on this perfumed, high-toned nose – very pretty indeed, almost in a Volnay style. The texture has a slightly gravelly tannin as its base, but the balance is very, very good. There’s some faint licorice flavours in the finish from what is otherwise a red-fruit dominated performance. Oh and it’s quite a good finish too. Rebuy – Yes

2000 antonin guyon corton-charlemagne

2000 Antonin Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne Medium-plus golden colour. Despite the colour, there is no trace of oxidation here, rather it is forward but well integrated sweet brioche oak, behind is a good, freshly mineral base. Concentrated, silkily, waxily smooth texture. The acidity is understated and the flavours are a mix of the mineral and savoury. Very mineral finish that is also very long. This should be at it’s best in another 4 or 5 years, but it did rather on day1 – day two was even better! Rebuy – Yes

a funny performance…

A couple of weekend bottles. Somebody else’s house and glassware made for puzzling performances from both of these wines – in both cases totally unlike the last bottles I tasted: 2007 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet Wow this bursts with toasty-ness, brioche and just about everything but fruit. There is concentration and acidity but no togetherness. The sweet fruit across the tongue held it together, but it seemed quite peculiar. 2004 Pascal Lachaux, Clos St.Denis Hmm, whilst the 04 character is very, very tiny (like before), the aromas are rather diffuse and slightly stemmy. In the mouth there is some balance, but the texture and concentration of the last bottle seems largely absent… I was bemused – perhaps it was the piercing Muscat we started with!

06 bouchard père et fils volnay 1er caillerets cuvée carnot

I may have criticised the last Bouchard (the Mercurey) for it’s relative (versus quality) value, and here is a wine that has more than doubled in price since the 2002 vintage, yet despite being unhappy about that, there is something innate and worth paying for in a good Volnay – and this has the potential for very good! 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnot The nose shows a width of creamy red fruit and perhaps has a rose-petal dimension too – really very pretty. Plenty of concentration, the tannin is slightly forward but of velvet texture. A good additional fruit dimension in the mid-palate with understated but balancing acidity. The flavour of the finish remains very barrel-influenced today, but is very [....]

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