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06 domaine du pavillon volnay santenots
My last bottle for a few days I suppose – I also just cancelled some lovely visits in the Côtes for the next two days – why? The blocked nose and the coughing; not what many vignerons want in their cellar and it’s clearly not a great introduction on your first visit! This bottle tasted lovely on day one, on day 2 I’d already lost most of my taste…2006 Domaine du Pavillon, Volnay 1er Santenots Hmmm – interesting wine. On the first sniff there was a hint of unwelcome aldehyde, on the second it was already transformed to flower petals. Slowly the aromas took on density if not so much depth. The flavour reminded me very-much of recently drunk Santenots – but on checking I [....]
still one piece…
Back from a ski-race weekend, and no bones broken – it wasn’t for the want of trying though! – however, spandex induced, higher-speed than anticipated, schuss errors are just part of a weekend’s fun! I would have easily achieved my target if I hadn’t had to go back 20 metres up the hill for an errant ski then trudge up the hill I should have aced – still there’s always next year… The picture below is of some silly boys dressed in 1920′s gear who made the 9.6km downhill course (curtailed due to avalanche concerns higher up the hill) with the old wooden skis and bindings – they probably still beat me. The green man is after the day before’s ‘training’ in the mist and [....]
tasmanian champers and hunter valley white bordeaux
It’s a purely Australian view, but this article did more than enough to make me smile: When I asked him why he’d changed the name of his Richmond Grove blend of chardonnay and semillon from Richmond Grove Pinot Riesling to Richmond Grove Semillon Chardonnay, he clarified the issue thus: “Pinot riesling doesn’t mean very much at all. Chardonnay’s not pinot chardonnay and I don’t think riesling in the context of pinot riesling means very much. I mean riesling is semillon and pinot is chardonnay, and we have more semillon in the wine than chardonnay, so it should be semillon chardonnay.”
notefinder updated…
Just to let you know that I’ve updated the NoteFinder database, so there’s nearly another 200 notes in there. There are now well over 300 notes each on 2005 and 2006 wines in bottle. Hope it’s useful! I’ll be away the next couple of days, so no updates and probably not many bottles either – I shall be trying to be ‘sportif’!
2 from giroud
When typing up the notes from some domaine visits I made at the end of last year, I spied a couple of notes that slipped through the cracks of my (apparently not watertight) system. This was a ‘by chance’ tasting when I popped into Camille Giroud to say ‘hello’, only to find a group of winemakers and US ‘movers and shakers’ reaching the end of a spirited tour through the barrels. At first I declined a glass, but my resolve soon crumbled… 2004 Camille Giroud, Chambertin Deep, initially dominated by oaky notes though they quickly fade leaving a very tight aromatic profile – needs time in the glass. In the mouth it is dense, silky and with plenty of well covered structure. Sneakily long with [....]
resveratol again
It seems mandatory that the word resveratol must be accompanied by hype and pseudo science in any article – particularly when seen in any of the ‘wine press’. From Chemistry and Industry Magazine is yet another optimistic vignette, but at least there is some ‘real’ science content: “Resveratol in wine has been hailed as the elixir of youth and cure for many ailments. It occurs in the seeds and skins of grapes and has reputed anti-tumor, antioxidant and antimicrobial action. It has even allowed for a longer life. Resveratol prolongs the lifespan of flies, mice and yeast, similar to the effects of a starvation diet, and is believed to work by promoting sirtuin, a protein that helps to repair chromosomes. This wonder polyphenol is more [....]
06 chablis moutonne long-depaquit + girardin 03 charlemagne
2006 Long-Depaquit, Chablis Moutonne More of a tasting recollection as I’ve slept since drinking it! Medium-pale gold. The nose is classic seashore with a hint of savoury that could be an accent from a little barrel ferment. In the mouth there’s none of that blousy thing going on that some 2006′s show: it’s linear, mineral and rather savoury and also a beautiful wine with or without food – it was followed by a Girardin 2003 Corton-Charlemagne that was clearly more gregarious; richer and showing an extra dimesion in the mid-plate (good wine) yet was less successful during dinner – perhaps and hint more of acidity could have helped the Corton. I can currently buy the Moutonne at 60% the cost of the Fevre Le Clos, [....]
a weekend on the piste
Just back from Klosters, trying to remember how to ski – better late than never I suppose as I’m ‘racing’ next weekend – in the Inferno Rennen in Mürren. Nobody mention lycra suits….
thomas-moillard 2005 pommard 1er épenots
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Pommard-Épenots Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose retains a consistently understated mix of the mineral, plus dark, deep red fruit. In the mouth it’s a powerful blend of intense fruit that peaks in the mid-palate, decaying with a creamy edge, and showing just enough tannin to poke it’s faint astringency through the blanket of fruit extract – slightly exacerbated by hint of carbon dioxide. The finish is very understated, but lingering and entirely made up of non-barrel elements – you can’t say that for many. Not the ultimate in smooth sophistication that many 2005′s can display, but at a good price, this would be an easy rebuy recommendation. Built with the long-term in mind, but today (at least) relatively approachable. Rebuy – Yes
alex gambal 2006 chambolle 1er les amoureuses
2006 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses Started high-toned and diffuse – ouch, what’s happened here? – but 10 minutes in and the glass brings an ever-widening and ever-deepening palate of notes; deep, full, lightly sugar-coated cherries, swirling releases higher tones too – that’s more like it! In the mouth the first sip is also a little disconcerting, but following the path set by the nose, it fills out very nicely indeed – a broad range of flavours that amply fill the mouth. The fruit has none of the slightly distracting savoury element found in the Chambolle Charmes, but seems just a hint less ripe (no issue, just an observation), like-wise the tannin is finer, but clings a little harder to your gums as you [....]
alex gambal 2006 chambolle 1er les charmes
What with the previously opened St.Aubin and a waiting Amoureuses, it’s looking like ‘gambal corner’ here, but I really do want the opportunity to compare the chambolles. The 2005 Chambolle Charmes was a stunner, so how does this compare(?) 2006 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. A dense core of darkish cherry fruit is wrapped with some higher floral notes and a faint savoury note. In the mouth it’s concentrated, in fact it’s bursting with flavour, and though it’s quite fruit-driven, like the nose there’s also a savoury flavour here. The acidity is good, coupled to faintly grained tannin. The flavour in the finish seems a little dilute – it must be that late-appearing acidity making my mouth water – but there’s [....]
cheval clark…
(Domaine) David Clark has gone the whole hog (or should that be mare?) and started ploughing his recently acquired plot of Vosne-Romanée with horse power (no F1 jokes please). I expect he will be burying cow horns full of …. (whatever) next! “In many ways it is the logical next step in respecting the health of my soils: in 2008 ploughing was the only vineyard task I did by tractor, everything else (including hedging and spraying) was done by hand. By avoiding compaction the soil develops a structure and life that is truly beautiful to observe.” You can read all about it in Anglaise here, and to get a better feel, see the pictures in Français here – there are many more pictures in this [....]
