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offer of the week
William Fevre – and they’ve come a long way since the 2001 vintage – the price too, it’s just over double: PREMIERS CRUS CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 2007 37,5cl 22.00 Sfr CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 2007 75cl 39.50 CHABLIS Fourchaume Vignoble Vaulorent 2007 75cl 55.00 GRANDS CRUS CHABLIS Valmur 2007 75cl 79.00 CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 2007 75cl 79.00 CHABLIS Les Preuses 2007 75cl 79.00 CHABLIS Les Clos 2007 75cl 89.50
changes at christies
From Decanter: Christie’s is set to announce the departure of its long-standing head of wine auctions in the US. Christie’s vice president Richard Brierley has returned to the UK after nearly eight years running the auction house’s North American division. Brierley, a British subject, will now oversee preparations for the yearly Hospices de Beaune auction in France, alongside Christies’ long-running Burgundy specialist, Anthony Hanson MW.
olivier guyot 2005 gevrey 1er champeaux
Another bottle from the man and his horse. A good wine, but it suffers in comparison to the wines of the last evenings… 2005 Olivier Guyot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux Deep colour, some purple at the rim. After the two wines of Marchand-Grillot in the last nights, the nose is a little more diffuse with oak influenced coffee notes over an espresso depth. In the mouth this is intense and shows lovely acid balance and quite some extension into the finish. The flavours reflect the nose in that they are a little diffuse and oak dominated – no oak texture, but plenty of toasty coffee. Today this is more than a nose behind the M-G wines but I suspect will be much more together in a [....]
marchand-grillot, gevrey 1er petit-chapelle
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petit-Chapelle Deep colour. The nose starts quite savoury, only slowly offering a deeper black-fruit core that has a faint white pepper coating. In the mouth this is much more mineral, the acidity is more obvious but retains good balance. The tannins are a little more visible and help the flavour stain your tongue. Good, mineral length with a twist of coffee. Overall a little more (obvious) structure and much less comely than the Perrières today, but qualitatively its equal. Another wine I shall buy. Rebuy – Yes
vines: bought and sold…
From the BIVB: Maison Louis Latour arrives in Régnié Owned by Maison Louis Latour since early 2008, Henri Fessy (St-Jean-d’Ardières) has bought up 15 hectares of the Château des Reyssiers vineyard in Régnié (69). Maison Fessy now owns 35 hectares of vineyard. The aim of the chairman and managing director, Louis-Fabrice Latour, is to reach around fifty hectares. “We succeeded in Burgundy by being an owner-trader, and we hope to do the same in Beaujolais”, he explains. Fessy sells around 2 million bottles. The Devillard family in the Mâcon region The Garenne estate in Azé (71) has joined the Devillard estates. This 4.5-hectare estate has been bought by the Beaumont family (in-laws of Amaury Devillard) in partnership with Robert Vernizeau, expert winemaker from the Perdrix [....]
marchand-grillot 2005 gevrey-chambertin 1er perrières
Apart from an itinerant Chambolle and Morey Villages, Marchand-Grillot are a source for site specific Gevrey villages, a couple of 1ers and a Ruchottes. Not a producer I know well, but if this wine is anything to go by, they are worthy of more attention. 2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Perrières From 50 year old vines. Deep cherry-red, perhaps a little purple at the rim. An open and forward nose of minty, earthy, brambly blackcurrant fruit that falls into a creamy and eventually a redder depth. Ripe, a little lush, lightly grained tannin and excellently balancing acidity. The fruit flavour is very tasty in the mid-palate, almost a crystaline ‘black jelly’. Decent length. No tightening here I think – absolutely delicious right now. Rebuy – [....]
jean-marc boillot 2005 puligny-montrachet
Suffers in comparison to the de Croix Charlemagne, but with the Mischief and Mayhem still in mind… 2005 Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Medium yellow. At first the nose shows some high-toast oak, but this slowly mellows to give a slightly diffuse but fresh and high-toned effect. The palate is fresh and balanced, but just a little dilute in the mid-palate. Medium length. Tasty but far from a benchmark. Rebuy – Maybe
des croix, 2006 corton-charlemagne
2006 des Croix, Corton-Charlemagne Medium yellow. The nose is wide and shows a complex mix of fruits; pineapple, melon, lemon and a white blossom note. Rich concentration with real intensity in the mid-palate and nicely-judged acidity. The flavours in the finish start slightly savoury and fade in a creamier way. Very young but has good potential. Rebuy – Yes
so elegant, more elegant…
How to balance your pig-in-a-blanket with your Dom Perignon… I expect the marketing department at Moet will love these Riedel’s Black Bottomed Glasses… Bruce provides us with something just that little more elegant, but they are no pig-in-a-blanket solution!
mischief and mayhem 2006 villages puligny
Getting ahead of my self a little as this is one of the wines that I’ll report on in the summer issue, however, it was good enough that I bought some and already popped a cork at home. So here you see the second of my two notes, but first… 2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Pulgny-Montrachet Medium-pale yellow. Good depth to the subtly creamy nose. Fresh and a lively on the palate, with decent intensity a good length. An understatedly fine villages that’s highly recommended. Rebuy – Yes (and I did)
doudet-naudin 2005 bourgogne pinot noir
2005 Doudet-Naudin, Bourgogne Pinot Noir A large heavy bottle with a punt you could lose your fingers in, shame the attention to detail misses the cheapest of cheap plastic capsules. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a little oak, but it’s quickly lost, becoming wider with plenty of high tones and a faintly cedar depth – eventually a nice red berry note too. Some fat and reasonable depth – in fact it’s very tasty. On the negative side the acidity is slightly lifted and the flavours are a little muddled together. Not exactly cheap for a bourgogne either at 20 Sfr, but far from a bad value bottle – and as I said it’s quite tasty. Rebuy – Maybe
olivier guyot 2005 bourgogne pinot noir
It’s the first time I’ve seen wines from this domaine and Olivier seems a bit of a character. Manually harvested Bourgogne (an idealist obviously) and a picture of himself and his horse (Indigo) on the label. His website is as individualistic as his labels and has lots of info. I also found this lovely quote: This wine is from Olivier Guyot. He is considered somewhat eccentric by some of his neighbors, as he has sold his tractor and gone back to organically horse farming his vineyards. He feels it is better for the land, and that he gets better fruit from doing so. The grapes are hand-harvested, of course, and the wine is bottled without filtration. The domaine has passed from father to son since [....]
