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louis latour 2005 gevrey-chambertin
I don’t often buy wines from Maison Latour, and whilst I’ve had so-so bottles from them, it has more been due to lack of local availability than quality reasons. Now I’ve found a relatively close merchant, so two or three bottles might appear over the next days. 2005 Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin Medium-plus colour. The first sniff seems architypal Gevrey; dark fruit against an earthy, almost grainy nose. With open time it becomes higher toned with more red fruit, seems much softer if a little less interesting. Decent concentration and certainly it’s more red-fruited in the mouth. Good acidity and late appearing tannin with a little grain. Not the glossy fruit and concentration of many 2005 Gevreys, but at a decent price this is worth buying. [....]
lignier-michelot 2004 chambolle les gammaires
2004 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Les Gammaires Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is understated but shows good depth and there’s no ’2004 character’. In the mouth it’s serious, with good mid-palate dimension and a good persistence of ripe flavour. Very nice – I bought some more. Rebuy – Yes
françois et denis clair, 2006 santenay
2006 F et D Clair, Santenay Medium cherry-red colour. A very nice width of high-toned fruit on the nose, slowly it takes on a clear red berry complexion. Good depth and a furry texture on the palate. The acidity is nicely balanced and the medium-weight flavours last very well. A six-pack offered for 93 Swiss francs is a bit of a bargain for a wine with such personality. Rebuy – Yes
philippe charlopin 2006 gevrey chambertin
I rarely see a Philippe Charlopin, so it was a surprise (for me) to see this on the shelf of a French supermarket. Very tasty wine. 2006 Philippe Charlopin, Gevrey-Chambertin Medium-plus colour. Slightly murky nose with a little vanilla and a faint mushroom – slowly fills out with deep and impressive primary red/black fruit to compliment the vanilla and eventually a little brioche. Some fat and plenty of mid-palate dimension. Balanced and long. This was both friendly and at the same time not a hint facile – I liked it very much Rebuy – Yes
rigi – canton zug
Two weekends ago we visited friends who live in Zug. Just 20 minutes drive away is the (bottom of the) hill of Rigi which reaches almost 1,800 metres. It was a picture-postcard kind of weather, so I include for you my postcards…
domaine robert arnoux 2006 nuits st.georges
Hmm, that’s a very similar label! What I find more interesting is, that given the development of prices in the last two vintages, this 06 villages costs the same as the 04 ‘Lachaux’ Clos St.Denis of yesterday. There can be only one winner at the same price-point and despite the high quality of this wine, it comes a very clear second to the 2004… 2006 Robert Arnoux, Nuits St.Georges Medium, medium-plus colour. High-toned, little obvious oak, clear, jellified red and black fruits. This has a lovely silky texture. Behind is understated acidity and a nice length. Far from the depth and complexity of the 2004 and just a hint less ripe. At a decent price it’s a nice buy and a very elegant version of [....]
pascal lachaux clos saint denis 2004
This wine does have the 2004 character, but it’s on a low, complex and interesting level. If Pascal made one of these in 2005 I’d certainly be looking for it – the raw material is super. On a negative note I’m never happy when a ‘négoce’ operation virtually uses the same labels as the domaine – these labels could easily be mistaken for the Domaine Robert Arnoux bottles despite no such reference. 2004 Pascal Lachaux, Clos St.Denis A little more than medium colour. The nose starts deep and oaky, slowly the aromas widen to a panorama of creamy oak, understated cedar and eventually red berry fruit. In the mouth there’s sweet fruit, background ripe tannin and nicely lingering acidity – very well balanced – maybe [....]
olivier guyot marsannay la montagne 2005
2005 Olivier Guyot, Marsannay La Montagne Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Modest higher tones over a tight core of dark fruit, swirling releases a little more spicy, leathery notes. Rather linear but very good fine tannin and slightly forward acidity. The flavour is mainly confined to the mid-palate and finish, but it’s quite intense if slightly metallic tasting, the finish is today average. This gives the impression that it has already tightened for slumber. There’s not that much to see today, I would leave for 5 or 6 years. Rebuy – Maybe
189 years of age in 3 luncheon bottles
From left to right: 1919 Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 1957 Bonnes-Mares, 1959 Echézeaux Sometimes opportunities to taste nice wines (maybe I should say exceptional wines) pop-up without expectation. This week I was to taste a fine producer’s 2006 range of Chablis, however, as an aperitif I had the opportunity to drink wine from three other bottles that just happened to be open: 1957 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bonnes-Mares Medium colour – both alive and interesting – looked super in the glass. The nose was fecund, with interesting if not all-encompassing depth and slowly became sweeter in the glass. A sweet entry, predominantly resolved tannin and just about middle-weight flavours. Slightly warming in the mid-palate with a length that just went on and on. Wonderful length [....]
arlaud vendanges photos (4) le fin…
The last picture selection from Mark: The first four pictures all coming off Bonnes Mares looking towards Morey: The last four are the team at the end ! Me bottom right front row in 111 & 112 next to Amy Winehouse look alike Sandrine. Mark de Morey
more bourgogne, but from the ‘wrong’ leflaive..
The lunch menu offered up a tantalising wine option – Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Rouge – I never heard of it, clearly it was worth investigating. Of-course when the bottle arrived the mistake was clear, it was actually from Olivier Leflaive. Anyway the bottle was here so why not give it a whirl(?) 2006 Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Cuvée Margot Medium cherry-red. The nose started red and a little powdery, the powdery edge slowly lifted to reveal simple but nice enough red berry aromas. The palate had reasonable balance, likewise the concentration was not bad for an 06 bourgogne. It’s only a few hours since I drank more than one glass but I can tell you little more. It was okay, but in a forgetful sort of [....]
arlaud vendanges photos (3) birthday of serge…
Serge is in the grey hoodie pening the large format bottle and with the cake. Lovely man. The rest of the party are Herve Arlaud, Romain Arlaud (dark curly hair & plaster cast on wrist) and my domaine resident fellow vendangeurs including Sophie, la belge. Mark de Morey
